Droneflyers.com has been a well known written blog - but we also do a number of videos which complement our writing. We tend to look at the Drone World as Engineers and Educators as opposed to the Entertainers who seem to rack up so many views on YT. If you want to really LEARN about Aerial Robotics, read www.droneflyers.com and watch out channel. We have also authored three best selling eBooks on Drones - ALL are now available for free on our web site. Our Facebook Page: facebook.com/droneflyers/ Twitter: @bestquads Thanks for reading and thanks for watching!
You saved me thousands by adding that little comment regarding not using coatings. A roofer came by and told me their were bubbles which would have made the coating fail quickly.
I have been in the business for over fourty years, and I made this mistake thirty years ago.... Doesn't work, and it wont last. Especially if you have freezing seasons. It's not for fixing leaks. It's for substrate purposes when installing new roofs.
Interesting that they made this product that long ago. I was in remodeling (some roofing) but I am very familiar with the types of adhesives - this is somewhat of a "thin-set" type and if you've ever used that (on wood, cement or anything...it's sticky and it lasts forever! If you get some of it on your skin it's hard to get off.... But I think I will agree with you in terms of places that freeze a lot! BTW, my repair lasted perfectly....I put a TPO roof down on top of it recently tho (applied some insulation and deck first).
Thanks for the informative video. I will be installing a sun shade over part of my covered deck.After watching a few videos on this subject one guy suggested you cover the vertical post with plastic covering that are covered with cement. Reason for this is the concrete’s chemical reaction will eventually rot away the wood even thou it may be pressure treated. I had a few pressure treated posts along my fence line rot at the bottom and now I know why.
Man finally I found what I think it’s a navy smart way to do that! So much easier to mount and dismount specially in Florida with hurricanes. It also looks awesome and sleek. The only thing I didn’t like is the pole angle backwards. That doesn’t look nice aesthetically. I believe that with a sturdy 6x6 pole the angle wouldn’t be needed. What do you think?
DO NOT USE THIS ! IT WILL JUST ADD 100's of POUNDS TO YOUR ROOF. If there's an issue where it's ponding and can't get past the high flashing and rain gutters, it will just make the pond bigger, more heavy, and sink more.
I used less than one tub - so it may have added 80 lbs spread out which is nothing. You are correct that it should only be used sparingly - if one needs much more sloping there are other ways to do it.
Concrete not cement. Cement is an ingredient of concrete. Plumb not level. Vertical is plumb. Columns are plumbed using a “level”. Horizontal is level.
Thanks! I'm a newbie to home improvement/fixes but my apartment's balcony is roof essentially and water pools up in the same way it does on these roof types. This solution helps me get a better idea of what I'm dealing with!
I am grateful for this tutorial. 👍👍I have a Trane (Genteq) motor that I had to keep using a long screwdriver to get the blades to turn, otherwise the unit would shut off. I was able to disassemble, clean, and oil the motor after watching your video. I used Zoom Spout Oiler (about $7) to saturate the felt in the endcaps. After re-assembly, I powered the unit on and the motor instantaneously spun at full speed. The replacement cost for the motor is between $200 and $300. I hope to get many more years of use out of my unit that was installed in 2010 (13 years ago at the time of this writing). I was able to get this done in about an hour. Not bad for my very first AC motor repair! 😁😁👍👍
Wow. Mine is having a similar problem where it will run if I kickstart it, but only for ~5 minutes. You think that the oiling process could save mine for a few months before I can afford a new one 🤔
I kept my post straight and put the pulleys on the outside to get the angle couldn’t bare to see the pokes like that especially when I have the string lights on them.
Based on the fan blade view from above the motor, it needs to turn clockwise to pull in the air from the sides and out the top. Also, the location of the fan blade or height from the grill or motor shaft needs to be where it originally was set on the old motor. If the new motor is louder than your old motor there is something not right. Maybe the fan isn't at the right height or the motor is simply incorrect or has a flaw.
Great video with the drone views. A bit of interesting history included, as well! We should be there this summer and can't wait to take our first ride on the Legacy Trail!
30 yrs later in 2022 and this is still not even know by the world shutting down fuel. That there is the ability to create ADVANCEMENT in technology instead of killing off the usage of fuel because of pollution it made in the past, and collapsing the modern world in the process.
I just used this on a low spot on my flat roof. It rained after 2.5 days and i had leaking still. It says the product is not waterproof but water resistant. 1) is it possible it got saturated and the water went through it and 2) if so will it eventually cure more and dry more. 3) should i apply an elastomeric coating over it to make it waterproof?
5 gal bucket - you need to mix it. Looks like about $80. If you find a roofing supply near you that stocks it (you can check with the maker), it may be less. I seem to remember paying about $65. builderswarehouse.com/pli-dek-roofslope-auxiliary-sloping-compound-dp-mix.html
This is designed to be used in fairly thin layers - for all my different patching I may have used 60 pounds of it - so, no, that's not any additional load worth worrying about.
Those are are the stars that are seen in heaven. :))))))))))))))))))))))) Stars = the moonlight bouncing off two different bodies of water. As above. So below? *Too far? hahahahaha
The pulley system and clear to hold it tight is a good idea to remove the inch’s of fixtures. Mine has to stand apart from the house due to the position of the structural points. With a three point shade I could clip in at two points and if they are tight, use a pulley on the third.
Thank you for the video, friend. I actually have used this product and also recommend ROOF SLOPE as an able product. The only recommendation that I'd add further, is to: *blow off the complete roof / wash down the complete roof. The substrate, no matter what type of roof is in-place, needs to be free of dirt & debris. If not? The ROOF SLOPE will simply, eventually let go. Just my 2 cents. Thanks again!
Thanks! Our 4 ton Rheem's condenser fan died and rather than wait in Florida's sweltering heat for parts to arrive + the monumental expense I also tried disassembling and renewing the motor. Eureka, it worked! I'd add that I wrapped steel wool around a drill bit and polished the inside of the bronze bushings too.
My guess is that this should last 5 years or more.... It's always a question of the next thing that might go - my FL A/C doesn't want to die! I sorta want a new unit (mine is packaged and I don't like the noise - new one is quieter), but this one seems to be lasting forever.
removing sag likely a function of a couple things - 1) spread of the eye bolts on the house or structure 2) angle and spread of the attachment points at the far end - 3) ability (pulleys and cam cleats) to really pull hard on the sucker to stretch it out.
If u are talking about the angle of the poles - you use any string with a weight on it to find exactly what level is and then you measure back from it. An easy way is to set up something temporary - using poles or 2x4's and guy wires (tent stakes, etc.) to put the poles into position. You can fuss with the poles until they look and work properly and you will know where to dig the holes (1) and also how far back from level you want them to be. This can be measured by using a 2 or 4ft level and "X" distance back from level in that 2 or 4 ft span. Various sites mention how many degrees back you want the poles to be set at. You can do a final check with the 4x4's or poles in the "dry holes" before you pour concrete into them. In a case like mine, I might have wanted the top of the poles 1 foot back and 1 foot off to the side (wider) than the rings on the sail.
