Toyota Land Cruiser repair of FJ80, FJ60, 100 series, Porsche 997 repair and projects, Bmw F30 and F31 Repairs. Off Road Trail Riding, Camping with Patriot Camper
The only way to eliminate the leaking of the sunroof in a Landcruiser 80 Series is eliminating the sunroof!!! I can tell you by experience, weld some steel and make the new headliner in leather new paint and ready forever!!!
Did you have to worry about covering any lines when spraying or did you just kind of went crazy with it? Definitely need to do my undercarriage like this, but don’t want to mess any wiring or tubing up. Also, was it the same for engine bay? I’ve heard so many mixed things about what to do/what not to do, I’ve just kinda left it as is
Thank you! I didn't change those but I have used the same Infinity reference 6 1/2 on the fronts. On the Valve cover I just used a wire wheel on the end of a drill
I might consider trying this. I did find that a new seal is only like $65-70. Plus whatever an install costs. My windshield is ok, but has a couple of chips. Part of me would consider buying a couple of seals to have on hand because I imagine they last long enough to be able to swap a couple of windshields between them. I'm just not a fan of filing it with cauk if I can get a new seal and fix it right.
its basically the same stuff they use at a windshield repair facility, my friend who owns a windshield repair place gave me tube of the 3m stuff they use and its basically the same and You have to use it or it will leak
Thanks for the idea…looks a lot easier than the jb weld rebuild I did with mine. Also…I had a question about the infinity speakers you bought…how did you install them and what spacers did you use? It doesn’t look like the speaker holes line up with the factory holes in the door metal…did you drill new holes or mount to a spacer? Any help is appreciated! Thanks for the videos
I cut the door metal with tin snips, just straight INDIVIDUAL 1 inch cuts all the way around and bend the metal back then just use some metal screws to zip it in, in the past Ive used a dremiel cutting the hole bigger, but the tin snips are so much easier and your not really cutting anything out, just bending it out of the way
In your next video- could you show a close up of the spacing of the front speakers and how you installed them in one of your other rigs. Or just any tips to get the spacing and holes correct. I purchased the same products, except I am using normal 4 inch in the back doors. Currently scratching my head a little bit. Thank you!
I have done that twice and I found cutting the slits in the metal and bending it back worked the best,I used Tin snips to cut it...then, I can remember If I needed any spacers after doing that...I did run my screws thru the plastic speaker bezel and could not use the grills after that
Trying to copy you, but am noticing there’s a slope on bolt hole area 3 and 4, meaning the bar stock will be at an angle. How did you fix this problem for these two spots on the intake? Or did you not worry about the slope?
Beautiful rig. Can you please do a walk around video of this black CE. How you modified it in its current state. Future plans etc. I have the exact same vehicle but with oak interior. One of 800 CE that’s 3x locked. Been enjoying your videos.
You might want to check the gear fluid in your rear diff and your rear axle seals. It looked wet on the rear axle like it might be leaking. Just thought I’d point it out. Nice rig!!… I made this comment before hearing your valve cover was leaking maybe that’s it.
this one has the 40 series flow master and a 10 series on the end...it sounds good but its a bit too loud go with a higher series like 50 or 70 series the higher the number the quieter
Hi, where did you get the rims on the 100 sereis behind you? I really like the look of them and was looking for something like that on my lexus LX470. Did you get them painted/coated by someone?
I actually Plasti dipped them with the anthracite color from dip your car .com, If you wheel a lot plastic dip doesn't clean the easiest, Id just paint otherwise
Well done on the new aquisition, enjoy it. Please may i humbly request a detailed thorough walk around the black 80 at your convenience via landscape, perhaps the others also further down the line. No obligation however.
That alarm thing is typically found under the drivers seat with its connections going into the drivers kick panel and lower drivers dash panel. It's a spiderweb of wires but you can disconnect everything and connect the left over ends. It should be straight forward but can find more info on iH8mud. My FJ80 was perfectly fine until it started doing that honking/alarm noise and then it never stopped until I figured it out and just yanked everything out.
Yeah it was a real pain...I got a factory remote to work, the ones online just work with the 3000 model mine was the other one that they used and installed at port...also had to do the door check buttons on a few doors
Doesn’t look as bad as the one I picked up! I need to do the valve cover gasket as well…debating on just going ahead and doing the head gasket…it appears my valve stem seals are leaking and I get a decent amount of smoke on startup that goes away after a few minutes. Thanks in advance for posting any tutorials…I need help!
well mine was pinched in the back and was not but a year and half old, also wasn't a factory gasket, definitely a difference. I saw much less oil leaks going to conventional 15w 40 Rotella
Check the PCV valve, over pressure in the crankcase leaks oil. Do a Compression Test before touching the valve head. Changing a V. Cover gasket simple as well as stem seals. In Hot climate 20-50 oil.
Hey I seen your timing chain guide is broken mine is as well I did watch a video an a guy decided to rebuild it all and pull the engine just because of that. I don’t got the space or time to do that so my question is. Is your engine still running good without the guide after 8 months
also did you have to get the headers machined to flatten em out? If not, how'd you get the surfaces to level out to where you can add those cut steel plates on there? Thanks dude!
Did you use copper seal on the intake and header cylinder head gasket? (Looks like coipper for intake but some silver gunk for the header, what is this?) and is this a remflex gasket? Just bought these tri mils, their on their way in the mail! Also, what header paint did you use, and how much longer will headers last with it vs without it?
I did and got my gasket from toyota, got the header paint off amazon and I think it keeps it from rusting as bad, it's thick paint so maybe insulates a little bit
WOW! super clean. So about your radiator: You aren't using the fan cowl? and there's a huge space between the radiator and the front support. Really you are just pulling air from mult directions and it's not being pulled through the radiator as efficiently as it should be. The hot air from the engine is being recirculated. Are you overheating? With all those things in place you should see a lot better cooling temps.
Im running cooler than all the other 80's Ive compared actual temps from an on board obII monitor...I have a bigger radiator and have done the clutch mod on the fan...im sure it would be even better with the shroud... I may add one to see, but really no need
@@quickanddirtylandcruiser6217 Cool. What temps are you running? I run cooler at idle than I do at speed. I think because of the fan clutch mod. If you have some data at different situations that would be cool.
