Neat mechanism of the tool, but it seems like it would be easier to just sharpen the teeth by hand versus the cost of the tool back then and then the time it takes to align tool for each tooth
Tom you might need to look in your account. I sent links in my other messages and so they may be filtered out. One is RU-vid. The other is an eBay listing for the manual on your case Centennial B series 3 bottom plow.
Just Google,old JI Case 3 bottom plow, you might be surprised how many parts you might find for it ... There's a bunch of people making new parts for some of the old plows....
I don’t think you have a problem Tom at least it’s not a bad problem it’s a good problem I hate it too when good equipment like that gets scrapped so you just keep saving that old iron 😀🇨🇦
Wow Tom, that plow is old. Likely older than you (older than me and I'm older than you). Definitely older tan the JD 60. Looks like a great piece of yard art.
@@ErnestHusmann I'm sure it is older than I am without a doubt. It would make good yard art but I hope to get it working it would be fun to use it out of plow day. Although I'm not sure that there are any plow days organized in my area
saw mill really looking good, we have almost finished our husk frame, but still do not have the gear that goes to the drum shaft, we have one from another mill, but it does fit in the small area, any ideas on where to locate another gear? we really want to get this thing past this stage... thanx joe b.
@@josephbarroso3580 there is a kid in Big piney WY. That just bought an old salvage yard and he has some sawmill parts in their. I've looked through his stuff and there are no Corley parts. I could get you his number if you wanted to give him a try.
Wow! I thought the holes were fairly shallow after watching the auger work, but then the post started to disappear down that hole! How deep to frost...4 feet? ❤
With this era motor you check the oil with the engine running. It should say that on the dipstick , even if it don't it is a fact, the motor will be low on oil when its running if not. I have the same motor in my traxcavator which is a D4 with a different ground engaging set up thats the only difference.
Can't believe nobody's said this, PUT A SHEAR PIN IN THE CENTER SHANK !!! That shank is tripped, you're not supposed to drag it like that . And that's nowhere near enough tractor to pull that sunk all the way down.
@@kenhill7105 we didn't intend on dragging it that way we were just trying things out to see if it would work. The next step will be to see if the tractor will pull one shank alone and if that doesn't work we will go get a friend's big four-wheel drive tractor.
I see WD40 used by so many youtubers on stuck bolts. I never use it for that. I use Liquid Wrench super penetrating oil. I never see it used on RU-vid. Works great. Threads get coated. ❤ Please get a face shield to wear when operating your saw mill, Tom. ❤
Thanks Tom for sharing the “look back in your life “. It’s good to look back and reminisce about our past, anyway I enjoyed it much. Back then we were the young ones, now we are the old folks. Can’t believe how fast time went! Blessings!
Great progress. I know you will appreciate that deck. We have log deck as well, but since our mill moves we have two lift out bridge beams between the bunks and the rails. Love this project you’re doing
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@@MrRackinroll yes it is underpowered I am just going to get by with it for now. I do have a lot bigger international tractor I can power it with but the pto's go in the wrong direction so I have to rig that first I don't have the money to go that far at this point
I had an auger on my mill and it worked fantastic. A 6" auger may be a bit small. The auger i had was an 8" in a 3 sided trough, worked great. It turned slow powered off the saw mandrel and never gave trouble. I sawed 20 years that way. I had to make sure it was clean over winter so I could saw in the early spring.
you may want to add a steel plate to act as a "splitter" just past the saw blade to keep the wood from bowing in and pinching the blade, the one that corley used i think had a roller that also held up the cut wood up so it didn't bend and break off before it was completely cut off ... i did not see one in your scrap pile you got a long time ago...
@@josephbarroso3580 yeah there was nothing like that with the original meal. I am at this point looking for something. Knowing that I have to have something there.
Tom--from other saw mill videos, it would seem the combine chain and flights would be a good option. Also wondering about what kind of 'catch' area below the blade might help expedite the dust into the up elevator. Thinking of a wide 'V' shape device that would let the saw dust enter into the elevator mechanism. A couple of examples come to mind--one was the collection area in a corn picker where the ears drop off the husking bed into a collection area and get picked up by the elevator that leads up to the wagon. (Also chain with rubber flights and sides to prevent the ears from falling out). My wife and I appreciate your videos very much. Stay safe, with all good wishes.
I can almost smell the fresh cut lumber. ❤ I like how the mini platform catches the planks as they fall off the saw... i noticed the boards do crack off the last few inches because they tip over before the cut is complete. Adjustments are coming, I'm sure. Good work, Tom. Will there be a sawing season in your calendar? ❤ Looks like you'll need a new paint job before long. Lol. ❤
@@jefflaufer3205 the only seasonal thing I'm worried about is getting the logs out of the mountains in the summer there is no access with all the snow in the winter. I'll probably just cut when I am in need of certain lumber
@@petersboro8502 The carriage speed is controlled by slipping the flat belts. I do wish there was some way to change the gear ratio and slow the carries down more seems to be way too fast
I would think the elevator chain off of a combine would be the better of the two options. I'm thinking the auger mite possibly bind up if the sawdust gets wet from rain or snow, since at the moment you have no roof over your mill. Just my opinion.
I lay a tow strap across the bed of the trailer before I load. It allows me to choke the bottom layer of logs and pull them off the back all at once. But, what do I know...
Please don't saw without the splitter bar behind the saw blade (trailing edge) protecting boards, slabs, splinters, or whatever may land on the teeth of the blade ending up propelling wood at very high speeds towards the operator. Also prevents pinching of the saw blade on that trailing edge. Also, need the ability to move the husk deck board next to the saw blade away to clear a captured piece of wood trapped next to the blade. It will heat the saw blade quickly and can cause some trouble quickly. Making good progress bit by bit and enjoy going along for the build.
Does the wood you saw pinch the saw has you are cutting ? Reason I ask is here the north east,the woods we saw do that and we have to put a metal pinch bar right behind the saw. These can be made out of a 1/4" flat bar ,or a bit thicker.Hope this may help.
Watching hear in the UK it looks like you don't know what you're doing does the tractor not have a diff lock ? And do you not think that center leg was carrying the others a bit when tipped back adjusting the top link to increase the angle of attack makes very hard work of it , if you had it set right she would either pull it to slow to be any good or try to lift the front of the tractor before spinning out
It's not so much power. Its about how much traction can you get to the ground. Set of duals or load the tires would do the trick. Your not going to fly through the field.
@@tractorrescueranch3682 trying to send you pictures from my phone ... i can't send them to ya on this platform...going to try straight to your email...
@@jefflaufer3205 the guy that Scott bought the tractor from said that it was used on Hill sides so he moved the lower tire out for more stability. It will get put back into place, just been too busy.
