@@TeamRCHyderabad hi, thanks. It is actually the Kamps Microturbine. Same compressor as the early kj66, different diffuser, ngv and combustion chamber. I do want to fly it, but it must be reliable and efficient before i start making an airplane. Right now i dont have enough thrust, and I have issues with the ngv / casing warping. I am also experimenting with preload direction. I have seen your turbine videos on youtube 😀 good job! 👍👏
It is fabricated from 316 stainless. Warping is not uncommon on fabricated ngv’s. Reason for warping is uneven and also too high exhaust temperature. Next engine will be cast ngv.
@@nicolasm7012 The homemade wheels had some issues with the geometry. I bought a cast wheel and compressor for a kj66 i am going to build and I am testing this wheel to eliminate turbine issues.
@@nicolasm7012 this engine has its shaft critical frequency at 135000 rpm. Thomas kamps writes in his book that 20% margin of safety is needed. This gives 108000 rpm. I guess less margin is needed in the air when the engine is far away from people.. Yesterday i found that my preloading system (built as designed) is wrong with this wheel. Preload spring is in the rear. Dynamic force is pushing the shaft forward and unloading the preload on the front bearing. Front bearing is now in bad condition. I will make a solid spacer bushing for the rear and preload the front bearing instead.
You can close the thrust cone up to 650 degrees of temperature. Your engine runs very cold, it can rise in temperature without problem. This will increase the thrust. KJ66 at 85,000 and personal stainless steel wheel pushes around 2.7kg. To fly a small jet correctly with you need 2kg of thrust, no less. Diesel provides very slightly less thrust than kerosene, but this is a matter of a few grams, nothing significant. Closes the thrust cone by a few mm
I will try making a too narrow thrust nozzle and open it up until egt temperature is acceptable 👍 Maybe try a single cone like the newer engines to save some work 😀
Hi nicolas, I got an answer from James over at gtba. He explained how a mismatched turbine wheel can restrict the mass flow in the engine. I checked the angle on my blades and found 20 degree trailing section… it should be 34 degrees. I read the drawing wrong. I will make a new wheel and test with that. Thank you for your suggestions and comments - i really appreciate them. Best Regards Jogeir Emil
@@joemgj Yes if the angle is too tight it doesn't push much. It's all a question of balance. You can try simply twisting the blades to the correct angle. This is what I did on my FD3 64 with the stainless steel wheels. Stainless steel twists easily. I think it's worth a try, you can make a new wheel after validating the test with the old modified wheel.
@nicolasm7012 I have started on a new wheel. I cut out a disc with my plasma cutter yesterday and have bored the hole and turned it to size. Work will continue today 😀 I am doing a demonstration at my local club on saturday so i dont dare start bending blades on the old wheel in case i screw up.. spectators will be happy with the sound alone, they dont care about thrust on a test stand 😀
I dont know, but I sure hope so. I have ordered a cast 66 mm wheel and a compressor from aliexpress to build a kj66 engine. This engine has a stainless steel turbine wheel made by me. 85000 rpm limit on the turbine for now.
Well done. The thrust is in kg or pound? You need to rework the rotor balancing, the noise when you turn off the reactor indicates poor balancing or a problem with the bearings.
Thanks 😀 The thrust is in kg. Approx 2kg. I am running steel SKF 608-C3 modified to full complement while I am waiting for ceramic balls to arrive so I can make hybrid full complement bearings. It would not surprise me if the bearings are bad again.
Ah, you are the person flying the fd3/64! I have seen your videos and read your posts on the gtba member forum 😊 Very impressive! I hope to get my turbine flying as well.
@@joemgj Yes, it's me who flies the FD3/64 on a sagittario. Yes, the bearings must be modified at these speeds. This is probably the cause of the noise. How many RPMs can the kamps run at? I hope you can make it fly. But it seems to be going well. The kamps is a good engine, easy to tune, not like the FD3/64.
@@nicolasm7012 the book states max rpm for 316 stainless steel turbine wheel is 85000 rpm. I have ordered a kj66 cast turbine wheel and a kj66 compressor, but I may just build a kj66 for flying instead of tweaking the kamps turbine any more. I dont know yet, book says 40N is possible with home made wheel in stainless steel.
@@joemgj In fact I confirm that 85,000 rpm is really the maximum safe speed for stainless steel. I killed a stainless steel wheel on my FD3/64 wanting to go faster. I would even say that the longevity of the wheel is 80,000 rpm. Of course you can spin at 90,000 rpm but not for long, the wheel will stretch. You need to try to find some inconel. This is what I did on my FD3/64.
Thanks 😀 I use the lcd for pressure readout. There is a 0-15 psi pressure sensor connected to the microcontroller. The value after «P:» is the case pressure in millibars. I should have bought a better display with room for units, but I was not keen on doing the research. This 16x2 display is very cheap and easy to integrate.
@@ralphrip6499yes, progress 👍 If i interpret the audio spectrum correctly, the max rpm was 69000 rpm at 0.5 Bar case pressure. I need to make a rpm sensor to prevent overspeed now. 85000 rpm max according to the plans. I also need to figure out the hot spot at 7’o clock.
"Ich habe die Verbrennung in den Griff bekommen" bitte beschreibe was du genau gemacht hast "neue Kugellager" hast du Hybridlager bestellt? (am besten ist das Turbinenlager ohne Käfig) Es wäre super, wenn beim nächsten Testlauf die Kameraposition so wäre wie beim Testlauf "Kamps Microturbine Run 4", das gibt uns einen Einblick in den Brennraum und wie die Verbrennung abläuft. e.g. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cksjmosD3KE.html Mein KJ-66 brennt hellblau. Gelbe Flamme bedeutet: Sauerstoffmangel.😉
-I have made a new casing now with a gasket between diffuser and casing. -I did some more work on the compressor cover to get less clearance. -injector needle tips are bent 30 degrees and touching the vaporizer tube wall. Needles are inserted approx 7-10mm into vaporizer tubes. -I have installed new SKF 608/C3 bearings. Flame is burning blue inside the combustion chamber. See my latest video. Kamps Microturbine 31052024 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MBIZSE5xYFY.html See my latest video
I went back and saw the disassembly of your turbo jet; you indicated that the fuel lines were jammed, if you need to make another one, it's quite easy, just buy vented grub screws, bend the tube into the shape and drill the holes accordingly, (.5mm smaller than screw diameter.) Then you can forcefully thread in the screws to cut their own threads and in doing so they will be sealed, if you so choose you can also braze them into place. This method allows for spiral fuel injectors to be placed.
@@joemgj I'm currently rebuilding the combustion chamber with fuel injector sticks, they are pretty easy to make, and they seemed to improve performance drastically from my preliminary runs, I'm also rebuilding the hot end turbine because with the fuel injector sticks the burn was too efficient so the stainless-steel turbine exploded. Fuel injectors are basically a m3 long nut, with a m3, spiral tap, the spiral swirls the fuel and air together for an efficient powerful burn.
Something very important when it comes to the sticks, they must never be blown with cool air, this prevents the fuel from evaporating, they have to glow and that's why I would close the holes that blow directly onto the sticks.
I compared the books by Thomas Kamps and Kurt Schreckling KJ 66 again and noticed that more air is blown into the primary part of the combustion chamber . My suggestion is to install another six sticks in the combustion chamber (current technology is 12 sticks) and adjust the injection ring, do not shorten the needles and do another test run good luck
The needles can be easily bent if you heat them up to the tip after soldering them in I also have some Kamps turbine books but couldn't find this error in the information for the combustion chamber MisterG shows a video, if you compare it with yours, you can see small but perhaps significant differences. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F-s5NDJoBtU.html e.g. your compressor diffuser blades are too thick at the beginning and the flow is limited You don't use an O-ring to seal the housing Is the turbine leaking? I check the tightness of the turbine by closing the inlet and outlet with the palms of my hands and blowing breathing air into the turbine through a hose. I achieve 0.3 to 0.4 bar on the pressure gauge, which is enough to see whether there is a leak in the housing
Thank you for your kind help 😊 I got the combustion sorted I corrected the geometry in the diffuser by milling. I did a leak-down test and found one leak. I corrected a small misalignemt between compressor and cover. I changed the needles on the injector ring. I am using teflon tape as suggested in the book for sealing. I have to order o-ring material and make a proper seal. Engine was running cool and even all the way up to rear bearing failure. Building a dynamic balancer is next on the list. Kamps Microturbine 24052024 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3-WL2MuMREg.html
@@joemgj " I got the combustion sorted " please describe what you did exactly " new ball bearings " did you order hybrid bearings? (the turbine bearing is best without a cage) It would be great if in the next test run the camera position was like the test run "Kamps Microturbine Run 4", This gives us a view of the combustion chamber and how the combustion is going. My KJ-66 has light blue burning. Yellow flame means: oxygen deficiency. 😉
Hi, there is no good combustion in the primary part of the combustion chamber. the reasons may be as follows. 1. The injection needles do not press against the inside of the Sticks. (on the side where the bow of the sticks is), the liquid fuel does not evaporate sufficiently. 2. the wall thickness of the sticks should not be more than 0.5 -0.3 mm. The sticks must glow in the front area. But you can only see this if the NGV blades are so narrow that you can see into the combustion chamber during operation. (you can shorten it a little later at the base). e.g. like this model builde ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V4STtvDBVMU.html wish you every success👍
Thank you for your insight 😊 I will make sure the needles are touching the vaporizrt tubes. Maybe make a bend on the end of the injector needles also to dirct the liquid fuel onto the tube wall.
I have built the combustion chamber with slightly bent tubes from the rear according to thomas kamps book second revision. I will make a video showing the combustion chamber 😀
Hello, good job, the combustion chamber doesn't seem to be working correctly. can you take a film of the combustion chamber and injection ring? I built the KJ-66 myself in 1998
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Lo_qgEbZlqA.htmlsi=Mm9Hg2M2Xqdc_SOq I made a video disassembling the engine. I found at least one problem, maybe two.
Hi,nowadays I am using a bow. The wire is tesioned using a twisted rope on top of the bow. (like an old hand saw basically). In the video I was using bungee chord. The bow is more consistent with regards to sagging as the tension is constant. Springs (and rubber bands maybe) follow the formula F=kx where the force F is proportional to distance x. This gave me varying sag and trouble tuning due to the varying wire tension.
I'd like to chat with you to get some information on your set up for an X/Y/U/V machine in LinuxCNC as my friend Wolf and I are building one. I'll send you a message.
No problem, but I would encourage you to learn how to set up the .hal and .ini files manually, or at least learn how to edit them before asking questions. Linux CNC has some documentation. www.linuxcnc.org/docs/2.6/ Also, you need to use the latest linuxCNC version for the xyuv to work in the AXIS view. Best Regards Jogeir Emil
Jogeir Emil Gjersdal I've done a bit in Linux CNC... creating my own pyVCP panel... here is a forum discussion on that... and I have updates that I haven't posted yet. You may also want to check out my page... adding new functionality to my mill. linuxcnc.org/index.php/english/forum/22-pyvcp/28572-monster-a-learning-experience-pyvcp-machine I just haven't created anything other than an XYZ and/or XYZA machine yet... so I was wondering how you did it. I'm guessing you took an XYZ machine, duplicated the Z, then adjusted it for UV... or at least... that's where I suppose I'll start. Thanks, Jerry
askjerry Obviously You are capable of editing the files. Nice work on the GUI addition! If you create a XYZA-machine using the stepconf tool, and then edit the files to change the ZA axis to UV axis. This means moving the axes, from 2,3 to 6,7. (ZA is 2,3, UV is 6,7). The latest linuxCNC release also have a demo-config for XYUV configuration which can be a good source for inspiration.
Jogeir Emil Gjersdal See... that i did not know... I thought I could just reassign the Z(2) and A(3) to U(2) and V(3) positions. Actually... for my friend Wolf... his will be XYZUV at it can switch between XYZ and XYUV modes. (In theory) I'll have to experiment with that... should be interesting... squeezing 5-axis from a parallel port... whoo! I may have him add another for the additional IO we may need. Thanks for the pointers.
askjerry No problem :-) 4 axis is working like a charm on my old computer. Just had to disable som intel-specific crap to get good latency. wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?FixingSMIIssues
