My name is Mitch and I car, even if you don't I hope you enjoy the channel and maybe learn a few things along the way. If you have any questions feel free to message me on Instagram or leave a comment.
Current Vehicles: 10 LMM Dmax 08 C6 Corvette 04 Chevy Silverado 10 KTM450 SIX DAYS Mercedes SLK230 - RIP 😥 72 Volkswagen Bus
tried this on an aftermarket cat delete header on my NC miata, followed cerakote's instructions to the T, shit was flaking off in two days. Waste of time/money imo
I know this video is old, but for future reference, check your injectors o-rings, the ones that seal them to the manifold. They will cause some goofy things to happen, I've seen them cause lean conditions on one or both banks, rich conditions on one or both banks.
Be good to see how Berrymans Chem Dip would do if left sitting in top end and with someone manual cranking it over so you can see how well it cleans and also seeps through rings for people wanting clean without removing top end or any other parts as a easier quicker clean of piston rings option....be very cool for us to see that if possible... apparently suppose to best effective way but not seen a video of it yet.
To know for sure you would have to look at a wiring diagram. and you would see one side of the relay is a switch and one side is the control, you would jump the the 2 switch positions. so if 1 and 3 is the coil side and 2 and 4 is the switch you would jump 2 to 4
I was going to use a fuel line quick connector on the main line that comes out by the firewall so I could bypass the fuel rails but my local parts stores didn’t have one so I had to go that route.
@@MitchCarveth Well if it hasn’t been sitting for a long time building mud in your tank or rust building in your gas tank you shouldn’t have nothing to worry about about but if it’s it starts misfiring wanting to day you’ll know soon enough hopefully it won’t come to that good luck and good job
well its coming out before the injectors and rail, but if its has containments they would still bei n the bottom of the tank, you cant get every last bit, but if you had water in ur gas or something then you fill it back up it would be ok and would onmly have a small amount of water left
These are the pistons: www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-3269454030-2 These are the rods: www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-LS6098945 Just a heads up though the pistons I got are .30 over.
1st off if you want serious trans cooling capabilities you should have install a trans cooler with a fan. 2nd trans cooler always work much better as a stand alone unit this is because silverados coolant run around 205-210° so sending trans fluid through radiator tank to be HEATED first is not ideal. Keep in mind the laws of thermal dynamics "heat goes to a cooler place".
I’ve been on this earth for 60 years and I fix all my vehicles over my lifetime and it’s never ever been the spark plug. Although we wish it was it never is.
I followed you step by step and disassembled my 6.0 LS . This was my 1st time disassembling a LS motor and your video was perfect. I even went to the store and rented the same pulley. Thank you for the upload.
I know this is an old video I’m also building a 5.3 but for my LS swap gbody MCSS but I do own a 03 cate eye Z71 I’m thinking about building later, anyways that smile on your face when you was getting back out of the truck after first start up says it all it was priceless love it dude keep up the hard work it does pay off at the end
Don't worry about how loose the tie rod nuts are. They don't need a ton of torque because they're under insignificant load. All they do is push and pull the knuckle in and out to steer your car, which doesn't take much effort when it's moving
I've never seen a bearing come off so ridiculously easy. It usually takes an act of God to beat or press one of these off. Use some never seize on the flange and race when putting the new one on for the next guy. And maybe it'll come off without an hour of beating.
