This is my photography channel all about my adventures into landscape and aviation photography. Join me for some early morning landscape shoots or fast high-powered aerial action!
I have two BLUETTI EB3As. With the voucher offers that come through on Ebay, they each cost £167. Different model I know, but one, after being charged was put away. 10 months later I had the need to use it, it was still sat at 100% power. When you consider the cost of Jackery's, it's a no brainer to go with the Bluettis. Love your van mate.
Don’t beat up Tamron too much. I had the same with a Nikon 200-500 used on a D7500 - and I was only photographing gliding red kites and swimming ducks. I ditched it and went for a two prime solution - the 300/f4 and 500/f5.6 pair of PFs (both used - very good value in theses days of Z mount).I did this because neither the 80-400 or 200-500 were as good as my old 300/f4D. I might miss some shots but I can’t fault the lenses.
Hi Stuart. Great videos. I want to reboot my DSLR owner experience ( had Canon 40d years ago ). This time round focusing on aviation (fast jets at Mach Loop and air shows ). Drawn towards Canon once again, though considered Sony RX10 iv but feels very small in my hand. Was thinking of 90D ( as I can fit a battery grip ) with a suitable lens , either Canon 100-400 mk1 or one of the Sigmas 150-600 (sports variant ) or even 60-600 which seems to be way more expensive. Would you prefer 7d mk2 over 90d? So if you had a 2 grand budget, what would you do / recommend please? Loving your content, thank you so much, Steve.
@@stevegreenock7520 hi Steve, huge thanks for taking the time to comment. I’m sure you’ll love getting into aviation photography - it can be a challenge! I would actually seriously consider a Canon R7 now. It’s basically a mirrorless version of an updated 7D and it’s going to future proof you for a number of years to come. Although having said that a decent second hand 7D2 or 90D would give you excellent results. I’m not sure there’s much between those two cameras, the 90D is newer but the 7D2 slightly more capable maybe!? As for lenses, it depends on your remaining budget. For airshows and the Mach loop I’d suggest 400mm on a cropped body would be sufficient. See if you can get a canon 100-400 MkII in your budget. Failing that a Sigma 150-600 contemporary would be good. But to get amazing quality at the expense of flexibility I’d thoroughly recommend a Canon L series 400 5.6 prime. Have a look at some of my other videos about lenses and you’ll see why. It’s one of my favourite lenses to use at airshows and it got a hammering at RIAT last month! Good luck, let me know what you choose to go with! Cheers. 👍🏻
I purchase all my photography equipment used from a reputable on line main stream dealer. Saves an absolute fortune. I must admit I have the Sigma 150-600 Zoom and it outperforms the Canon 100-400 IS USM that I use to own. But this lens is dedicated to a Canon 6D MK 2 and used the micro adjustment to set it all up. Took a bit of patients but well worth the effort. The Canon 400 is a great lens and there are loads of them about at really great prices. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
This is a 2-year-old video now. Do you still use this workflow, or do you now use the AI Denoising within Lightroom? Do you now use Topaz Sharpening AI now?
You’re correct - it needs a bit of an update! I now use Lightroom DeNoise instead of Tooaz, it’s much quicker and easier. That’s just about the only difference.
Thanks for showing. I'm glad to see what I tought myself in Lightroom so far is matching with your workflow pretty much. Sharpening in Photoshop I'll try and find out more by playing with the settings. Thanks a lot for showing, it's a big help
The new Lightroom denoise is excellent. I find that photos often benefit from the DxO PureRaw approach of sharpening as part of the demosaicing and denoising process, and the DxO DNG files are considerably smaller than Lightroom's, so I use DxO more. But sometimes Lightroom produces better results. For raw photos taken with an iPhone, DxO isn't an option and Lightroom does a great job.
Unfortunately not - however, as a rule of thumb, a 500mm prime will be much sharper than a zoom lens. But I have no experience of these lenses I’m afraid!
12:12 Where is this? Is it at the entrance to the park? I've visited Maryon Park four times over the years, the first being in 1999 and the last in 2007. On my first visit, I was struck by how much the surrounding area had changed (it's practically unrecognisable) but fortunately the park is pretty much the same although it isn't as well tended as it was when the film was made.
I just tried but I was too close for 400. 300 was very tight hard to track movement. 200 was better for most until they swing towards me the big planes fill out frame on FX. What about a 80-400 zoom? What about some sort of action finder frame for tracking fast moving targets to frame up?
Stuart- absolutely brilliant video. Bought the monitor over a studio display and love it-could you please share the settings you use as my macair 2019 works perfectly but my m3 MacBook Pro cannot. Thanks
Some cracking images and also enjoyed the drone footage. Did you need to focus stack and exposure blend or did the original images work with more standard processing?
Thank you, much appreciated! Great question - actually I ended up using the images captured with the 3-stop ND Grad. The images with the foreground poppies in sharp focus I thought were sufficiently sharp in the distance - not pin sharp but acceptably sharp to my eyes. So in short, no stacking or blending for the 3 sunrise shots, just the usual level of processing.
@@sturousephoto The image turned out really well. Whenever I've tried focus stacking on anything that moves plants, leaves on trees etc I've always struggled to get a decent blend
Personally, I think if you’re just starting out I’d stick to the 75-300. When you feel like you need a longer focal length or better quality, that’s the time to upgrade. Use the 75-300 to practice your technique before investing any further. That’s what I’d suggest, for what it’s worth. Good luck, enjoy!
I shot some birds for the first time when I got this lens and the results were absolutely stunning, then I tested it on people and they were very soft and way less sharp. Shot a spots event and the images were sharp and few blurry. I wonder if buying the tap-in console would make a difference.
I had mine professionally calibrated and it didn’t really help I’m afraid to say. They used the tap in console to apply the calibrated corrections. I concluded that the lens is just too soft with too much unreliable focussing for my liking.
I also have the Dell U2723QE. Your previous video on it from a couple of years back was really useful in helping make my decision so thanks! I'm just getting set up with it on my Mac Mini and I have what is probably a very stupid question that is confusing me as I over think it: In preset modes on the Dell menu, have you left it on Standard? Or have you changed the colour space section where you can choose between sRGB, Rec .709 or DCI-P3?
Really good video, which shows the reality for most landscape photographers; namely we can't always be in the location at the precise date / time which shows it at its best It's good that you share your thoughts around problem solving and what images you are looking to create given the conditions Looking forward to more videos from your expeditions
