That was great, thanks. I was assembling a TR6 that came to me in pieces and it has been a while since I removed a gearbox cover, so it was a great reminder.
Everything you did you made a mistake - then the final insult - you didn't replace the shims! These are not to stop squeel, they are asymmetric pad wear devices to stop pads from tapering - wally!
@ptibbitts-nu9jr Hi, I always appreciate feedback or to spot any mistakes I make as im only human, but name calling is completely crossing the line. To say you're insulted and to name call, well, you better know how to do every single thing on these cars better than anyone else. I'm sure you have no issues telling us your shop name and location, (or youtube channel) so anyone looking to restore a British car can get the correct information and procedures to complete their work from you. Thanks John
It’s always reassuring to know there at least one person in the world who does no wrong. Please leave a link to your channel so we can all benefit from your unequalled expertise.
Hi Mario, I bought from Brian Tilton who I found on the Triumph Experience forum. Not sure if he is still making them as I bought in late 2022. I am fully satisfied with the result, wasn't cheap but looks great and they are hard to find.
The interior is looking good. I’m about to install one in my car. What is the rail set you bolted to the floor in the drivers side ? And not on the passenger’s side?
Hi Greg, I asked John if he could give me a few extra inches for the Drivers side seat to go back and that's his well thought out solution. I think it'll work out great. I'm tall at 6'2" and my son, who will get this car when my driving days are done, is 6'5" so the extra couple inches will make a big difference. That's also why I went with a 13" steering wheel which you'll see in more recent videos. My wife is 5'2" and my son's girlfriend is of similar height, so no need on the co pilots side to have the additional leg room.
It’s a good idea. I’ll look to do the same as the PO had used a few bars to raise the seat about an inch but made it hard to remove with several long bolts through the floor.
What is that knob on the A frame between the shifter and the radio? I can't believe that the owner spent a lot of money on the leather trim pieces and scrimped on the carpet set that was "incomplete". Why did you glue the carpet down on the transmission tunnel cover as it should snap in for access if needed? and there is also a 4in square access hole above the front U-joint for lubrication purposes.
@jerryhouck2708 That knob is the interior light switch, that is on all tr6s after late 72. Yes, the carpet kit snaps down, but I like to lightly glue it as it fits more snug. To be honest the access points are terrible anyway as you have to pull most of it off anyway. As for the carpet, it's not the owners fault, as different manufacturers/ vendors sell different specs. In the end it won't matter. I did not put all the access points in the cover for a reason as new u joints do not have a greese nipple.
Hi Jerry, that carpet/leather set came from JohnSkinner Manufacturing in the UK and in my opinion the quality is unrivalled. I highly recommend his kits. As for the gaps, that is the standard kit he ships out and as I said, the quality of the material is top grade so while may not fit end to end, does the job for the sound insulation and along with the Kilmat sound barrier the car should be quiet and feel solid.
coming on nicely....you need a lot of persistance for these old yokes but in the end worthwhile.....Wow...that is some amount of insulation you are putting in there...should be really quiet inside especially with new door seals etc. very nice job.
Not helpful at this stage, but when the front loom on my '75 CF went up in smoke last year, I replaced it with an adapted version of the early '6 loom, to get rid of the seat belt warning and emissions bloat.
Thanks Charlie, John and I decided to go with a brand new wiring harness from day one. I'm pretty sure Johns disconnected the seat belt warning and the EGR light wasn't on mine as I think they were only on the 76's
Yes it's 136 Delft Blue, back to its factory colour. Was painted a darker 'Jaguar' blue when I bought it. Looked nice but I wanted back to original. You'll see though that I opted for a Chestnut Brown leather interior with New Tan wool carpet to replace the powder blue original, which I really despised. They look great new and fresh but don't age well at all. I know the brown interior with a Blue car is not everyone's cup of tea, but I've seen one or two others and in my opinion looks great, and will age well. Also this is a 1974 1/2 as it left the assembly line on Dec. 31, 1974 and was sold as a 19975 model here in Canada.
door gaps are difficult as the tr6 sags and the body needs to be lifted or dropped with shims at the rear to adjust gaps....all a nightmare....to get gaps perfect on a TR6 takes a few days alone of hanging and adjusting all body panels. Bice job and looks nice now.....mine is at the same stage except not painted only engine compartment as engine is back in.
This would be a lot better if you had turned the music off in the background, and turned ON the "closed caption" option so I could understand what the heck it was that you were doing. I couldn't understand a single word you said and the video was just basically you with a screw driver doing something up under the dash out of site. Thanks anyway.
Hello, do you mount the gearbox seal with sealant or dry? In any case, congratulations for these great videos (even if I don't really understand your language) which help me a lot to restore my tr6 in my little French countryside. keep it up, it's great work 👍 sorry for my english (google translator) Thierry
John, just curious, why don’t you use a drill or electric ratchet to take off the bolts/nuts? I default to those and only use the ratchet when can’t get in there or it’s a larger size bolt/nut that needs the leverage to break it free (and then use the electric ratchet). To each his own I guess. Love your videos, thank you for taking the time to make them and help the LBC community.
Yes, I've got several on my TR6 because I want to remove the roll bar which is only bolted in. That's a great neat way and better than my original plan of soldering them. Thank you.
Thanks for your videos, very helpful, I’m waiting on the one where you wire up the dash, I’m almost there, except for two wires, both black with a green stripe, one has a bullet connector and the other has a slide in connector, can you help me place them in the proper place? Thanks again for the great videos. 1974 wiring tr6 .
Thank you for this. I am starting my drivers seat now and this video will certainly help. There are not very many on the recovering of these high-backed seats. I would have liked to have seen more detail on the prep and installation of the headrest foam and the back seat cover instead of fast motion. Also I would add a note of caution about the side bolster springs. These are spring steel and so they are springy. However the are unanealed, meaning they are brittle and will break if you try to bend them into place.
@@planet6parts Brake & Hazard. Left is Hazard, right is Brake. This dashboard configuration was used on all the TR250s and the USA version of the TR6 from CC25001 to CF 00001, 1968 (69 model year) to 1973 models.
I have been told that modern and reproduction alternators are “internal sensing”. Meaning that they don’t need that other brown wire to be plugged in. On my TR6, I used that extra spade on the alternator plug to provide a high current power source for my electric fan and halogen head lights. I then just hid the end of the sensing wire back into the harness. I found this made for a cleaner, more original looking, installation for these modern components, and it has been working just fine.
Well that's a very interesting point. I didn't know that but I always put it in to be sure. Using that spare wire for the fan is a great idea. Personally I run it through the fuse box bit it depends on which electric fan you put in. Definitely a different idea and I'm sure will be useful to many so much appreciated.
The leather windscreen liner was ordered along with the rest of the interior kit from JohnSkinner Manufacturing in the UK. While it might be seen as unnecessary by some, I think it will marry up nice with the leather dash and the rest of the leather in the interior, giving it that consistently finished look and feel. Great job John and another excellent instructional video.
Absolutely DON'T use DOT5. It may be easier on the paint, but the relatively primitive brake system on the '6 isn't suited to it and the seals will fail. It is also risky if regular maintenance is undertaken by a commerial workshop - surprisingly few understand the difference between DOT3 and DOT5, let alone between DOT5 and DOT5.1, and mixing mineral and silicone is a recipe for brake failure.
Hi Ray. I'm not sure if you noticed, but the dash was glued on. I use 3m multiple purposes adhesive that I use on all vinyl items. Maybe you didn't see as it was as part of the high-speed section, but it was glued. Please remember that this dash is not an original also so its differentmaterial. it is also leather covered, so fitment is completely different. You can't compare this to a factory original also. Thanks
oh dear...i remember doing mine 405 years ago and got it done with breens of donnybrook engineering who were brilliant in their day ...engine is still perfect....always remember to prime the oil pump :)
So there is not much room but if you use one of them interchangeable magnetized heads for a screwdriver in Philips and use a 8mm spanner it can be done. I hope I explained it Ok and you know the bit I mean.
Difficult to get any good videos on seats and this one sure is great...well done. Dont u just hate blunt blades.....i go through so many stanley knife blades which go blunt as soon as you have them loaded up it seems :)
