Welcome To my Channel. What you will find here is a collection of some of the stuff I am into.. Radios, Lawnmowers, Computers and Electronics. You never know what kind of device I will be into. Please Subscribe to my channel if you find it fun or interesting..
Is this phonograph without a horn inside the case? Has the sound quality been compared to Decca or HMV? I see such an interesting device for the first time!!
The cool thing about this is look at the end of the tone arm where it connects to the body of the phonograph. That bell shaped part is the opening where the sound comes out.
I just finished restoring a U-TEST-M model 2500. I've posted a restoration video on my channel. Yours is older than mine though. cheers and thanks for your video.
I have same Dewald FM B-612 tuner that you have, but it does not receive FM and seems to broadcast out a dead AM signal. Went to have it fixed and the restorer said it's not worth fixing. Still have it collecting dust.
I hate it when someone's says "It's Not worth fixing" That usually means they want you to give it to them so they can fix it and keep it for themselves. These are fairly simple units and I have the schematic for it, also may just have a bad tube.
Yes, all tubes light-up looked like someone worked on the underside at one point. Transmits strong dead signal, but does not convert...someday maybe revisit this! @@jrocco36
I would start with testing all the tubes. then check the power then keep working through the radio. keep in mind those are low voltage tubes so they really don't light up very bright. they may all be good and you may have an issue somewhere else
I would like to sell the one in this video. It would have to be picked up though. I had it on Facebook Marketplace. I would sell the entire thing with controller, MMU and loop detectors. basically everything without the signals and PEDs
@@gagek93 Next weekend we will be in Wildwood, FL The whole thing is mounted on a wood frame so it stands up by its self. let me know we can meet up and save you the trip all the way to St. Pete
That would work on sets with a transformer for the tube filaments but many tube radios string all their filaments together like a string of Christmas lights. One goes out they all go out. without a tube tester it would be hard to figure out the dead tube. You would have to use a Ohm meter and measure all the filaments on each tube to find the open one. Kind of the reason I have this one, its quick and simple to use. I also have a B&K 747 Mutual Conductance tester for when I want to know just how good a tube really is.
I found this on Wikipedia: From the late 1920s until the early 1970s, many department stores, drug stores and grocery stores in the U.S. had a self-service tube-vending display. It typically consisted of a tube-tester atop a locked cabinet of tubes, with a flip chart of instructions. One would remove the tubes from a malfunctioning device, such as a radio or television, bring them to the store, and test them all, looking up the instructions from the model number on the tube and the flip chart. If a tube was defective, store personnel would sell a replacement from the cabinet. At that time, tubes in consumer devices were installed in sockets and were easily replaceable, except for the CRT in televisions. Devices typically had a removable back with a diagram showing where to replace each tube. There were only a few types of tube socket; a radio or television set would have multiple identical sockets, so it was easy to mistakenly exchange tubes with different functions, but similar bases, between two different sockets. If testing showed all tubes to be working, the next step was a repair shop. As transistorized devices took over the market, the grocery-store tube-tester vanished.
I have a 55C, in a wooden console cabinet. Tuner on mine had the same problem. A short section of rubber automotive fuel line makes an excellent substitute for the original rubber friction sleeve.
Had one brand new in the mid 80's self propelled with a 4 hp briggs and stratton max engine on it, used it for 4 years in my lawn service, then sold it. Super well built, never let me down, you have an awesome collection.👍👍
You would consider that one direction would be your "Main" Street and the other would be "Cross" Street. first step would be all Red for both Main and Cross plus all the PEDs would be set to DONT WALK. and hold that for a few seconds. say 4 seconds. Next Main would be Green with the PED WALK and the Cross street would hold Red and DONT WALK. hold for say 15 seconds Next Main would still be Green while the PED starts Flashing DONT WALK. Cross would remain the same. Maybe flash 10 times Next Main would be Yellow and the PED would be DONT WALK. Cross would remain the same. make that 4 seconds Next step would be all Red for both Main and Cross plus all the PEDs would be set to DONT WALK. and hold that for a few seconds. say 4 seconds. Next Main would remain RED with PED DONT WALK. Cross would be Green and PED WALK.hold for say 15 seconds Next Main would Remain RED with PED DONT WALK. Cross would be Green and the PED starts Flashing DONT WALK. Maybe 10 times. Next Main would remain RED with PED DONT WALK. Cross would be Yellow and the PED would be DONT WALK. make that 4 seconds. After that the cycle repeats. You can use the Arduino Program I supplied above as a good start. Just think of what the other signal should be doing as you move through the cycle. Also as you go about your day watch the real traffic signals and PEDs and they will give you a good Idea on how to make a intersection work. You can also lay out the whole thing using just LEDs and try different times and maybe add a turn lane. Most of all have fun with it.
I went to the other video. Wow what a difference!. I spent at least 60 hours on a Max series mounted Snapper 1987. No self propel. But you did a fabulous job. Really beautiful
I own a landscaping business lawn service those snappers still on the job I have 2 with the Z shaped snappers the V21p and v210 with Wisconsin/robins 4.7 engines
That's cool that you still have these in service. My father got this mower in October of 1979 and we used for for a few years in his lawn service. I still have the mower however the engine is no longer any good. I spent the last year and a half trying to find a 4HP 110902 engine without any success. I put a modern 6.75hp Briggs & Stratton engine on it and converted it over to Propane. I still haven't given up my search for the correct engine block and crank and have kept the old engine intact when I do find one. with the newer engine Im still able to keep it going for now.
I just picked one up today. I had to clean to clean out the battery corrosion first. It looks and sounds great! Is it supposed to have a dial or meter light? 73 Paul AA1SU
Hi thanks for the comment!. Its been a while since Ive taken mine apart but I dont think it ever had a light for either the dial or meter. Its a fun radio and enjoy using it.
Thanks for the comment. I dont want to sell any as of yet but you can find these all the time on ebay. usually they go from $5 to around $20 depending on the condition. Since they made so many of these radios branded with well over 140 different brands you can find them new in the box even. you may have to replace the caps to get them working but many still work as good as can be expected for a 40 year old $3 radio. just do a search for Blue Solid State Radio
@@pumasgoya Just keep looking. I wanted a black one branded with Kmart. took a few weeks and I was able to get one new in the box with a price sticker on it. Also searched for a white TG&Y one and finally found one also new in the box.
I just picked one up today and unfortunately it’s non-functioning. I had tubes test good but nothing when tuning to the band. I can hear clunk when I change the band through the speaker so there is another problem. Do you have any idea where I should look
Sound like something in the front end of the radio. if your hearing a click when you change the band I would figure the amp section is working on some level. try wobbling the tubes in their socket while the radio is on. sometimes its just a dirty tube socket. if that doesnt help look into the caps since they may have gone open over the years and need replacing. I do have a schematic for this radio.
@@jrocco36 Great great very much I will try that I’m pretty sure since this radio is from 1953 the caps have gone bad. Gonna take it out of its case today and check all the caps
Yes, we were wasteful. I try to fix things, but a lot of people don't. I just got one of these radios and I think all it needs is some contact cleaner on all of the knobs and it should be working fine.
Usually I've seen the crosswalk signal countdown some of them has proper 9, 7 and 6, and some of them has q (9), 7, and b (6). And I don't know that is the way it works to do a countdown on the regular basis to let pedestrians know that the time is running out before they can't walk the crosswalk.
Basically they use a type of 7 segment display and really has to do with how the 7 segments are configured. here is a quick video on the 7 segment displays which may help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L1qN0iPeYqg.html
Hey I have a protel with a working line, I was able to just connect to the typical phone line and have it work, I think it’s got a built-in computer, I was hoping you could help me with finding out which model it is to see if I could set it into a free mode, any help would be great!
Thanks for the comment! Sorry I didn't post that in the video. I am learning how to do these types of videos. The problem was all the rust on both the Flywheel and on the Magneto. I think that was a major reason why the engine would not spin. I sanded the flywheel while spinning the engine with a drill and took off the magneto and used a wire wheel to remove it. once I reassembled it I got a good hot spark. I put some brakeclean down the carb and it started.. Living in Florida the sky opened up on me.. Next time I hope to do a better video
My 1979 Snapper still runs also. Gifted from Grandfather to my Father, and then my Father to me. I changed the oil regularly each season and it still runs.
I just rebuilt a 93 Snapper cost like 170.00 in parts.....its such a good mower. Then I found on the street a 92 Snapper. I'm not restoring it to self propel....but the engine is amazing. Both have 6 hp Quantums. Ill paint both. So well built they are
Love that radio. Lost it when I move from my old home to my new one. Found it on ebay for $25.00. I use to tune in SW at night. It looks great. Thanks for sharing.
If I was to make that one today I would not use magnetic relays but would use solid state ones. I have a video that explains everything to get a traffic signal working with a PED signal. see it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ebo0NYuXir4.html
I bought this at a flea market a while back. Works perfectly, but it's missing the power cord. As you can imagine it's pretty expensive to replace 9 D batteries every time they run out of juice. Do you know what kind of cord It uses and if I can get it on Amazon or ebay?
I'm working on my first EPAC controller, So my question is I know the light modules take a 24v input signal in. So do you have a 24V power supply in your setup or is the EPAC generating that 24V for you? Also, any good places to find the pinout of the connectors.
