In a fact: ''As part of the recent program, bp will continue to produce BMW Group’s branded engine oils which meet the OEM’s most recent and rigorous engine specifications including LL-17 FE+ and LL-12 FE as well as older generation specifications such as LL-01 and LL-04. The BMW branded lubricant formulations are based on Castrol EDGE, a leading full synthetic brand strengthened by Fluid Titanium Technology which increases film strength, reduces friction, and improves lubrication under the intense pressure of high output engines.'' -so it is the SAME OIL what we are talking about!?
is there any sense in that test? If some company gives some addatives to oil, which' ve got temerature of burning like 200-400 degrees, then we will see "coal" earlier than in other oil, but what is wrong with it? These addatives could makes oil more resistant and makes oil longer efficient for hard working engine despite your tests results....
Может стоит поменять манометр на большое значение, а то вы каждый раз ставите стрелку на упор и еще докачиваете, в итоге после этого 1,5% точности прибора улетают в трубу и он начинает косить. В продаже полно манометров, только найдите с кл. 1. А тест хороший, раньше такие приборы в комплекте с пескоструйкой шли в любой летучей техничке.
Far as I know bmw oil is just who they currently have a contract with. Castrol, Mobil 1, Penzoil …. BMW is not an oil manufacturer. They repackage somebody else’s oil.
Сергей, напишите уже немцам, и напомните им, что 2т моторы по отношению мощность/масса существенно эффективнее , чем 4 т. А то масло жрет и не едет как надо🤣🤣🤣
Мне одно не понятно, в бмв сейчас щуп биоразлогаемый, как провод в яблофоне? Как щуп можно сломать:) Не, точнее, я иначе спрошу. Что нужно делать двигателем автомобиля, что бы щуп был весь в трещинах, и сломался? При том, я не думаю, что этот авто миллион миль накатал:)
У меня есть дырчик, в дырчик надо 25 гр на 1 литр масла. Можно и 40 гр лить. 1,5 литра на 100 км ест. То есть на 1000 он ест 15 литров. То есть на тысячу у моего дырдона аппетит около 400 -600 грамм масла:). Если взять какую нибудь бензопилу, 2-ух тактный мот, газонокосилку.... Вот у них меньше расход🤣🤣🤣
I use Castrol only in my vehicles. Sometimes due to how much faster my parts can move due to the superior lubrication, i will have a slight problem when i pass by another BMW running their factory oil i go by so quickly that my car sucks their car through the intake and out my exhaust it passes. Occasionally i will have to replace a catalytic converter due to their crappy cars running crappy oil will get stuck passing through my system. My car and my Castrol is much greater than overpriced oil as seen above.
I knew a guy that used a heavy oil designed for excavators that he got for free in his car. He ran it like he did not care, everyone including me said the thick viscosity would wreck his engine. It never smoked and never missed a beat for 10 years. He changed it every 3-4000 miles regardless. I later bought the car off him for a project and decided to strip the head off to see how well it faired. I could still see signs of the honed cross hatching and no noticeable lip at the top of the bores. It looked remarkable inside and very clean. Over 90000 miles and still it had brilliant compression and never burnt a drop of oil. I think you could use almost any oil if you changed it regularly. Today, the £75 for 5 litres of oil are very good but often are expected to run up to 2 years and even 40000 miles. The oil is expensive so it does not get changed as often as before and often it's just fine but a regular change often highlights other issues that might cause trouble down the line. A slight leak, either oil, fuel, coolant, brake fluid, hyd fluid etc. Hose damage, blockages, drain holes, fuel/coolant contamination etc. Many bonnets only see daylight every year or two and often by then, damage is done. I worked in industrial maintenance for many years and regular oil changes gave long life and predictable performance. We tried, vibration analysis and oil sample analysis which did give longer run times but later longer down times due to increased wear later on. I'll stick to old school and keep it changed.
I am a castrol guy, had a beamer a year now after 25 yrs GM only, 1 ford, 1 dodge for reasons of goofing off with them. But, it was always VALVOLINE or Castrol around here. We restored and owned Model A fords, cars throughout the next several decades. My favorite vehicle is my 87 Silverado, i have had 6 of those square body trucks of the 80s, was my first vehicle. At my uncles shop one weekend, one of my dad's distant cousins pulled in with his 79 silverado, he had 275k miles on that old truck, he wanted us to overhaul his engine. He said "It has never had a thing in it but Quaker State every 3k miles I kept it changed. " My dad groaned. He just knew we were going to have a time inside that motor. We took a rag and could wipe the valve covers clean, the heads looked new, the bottom end clean. No one I knew liked Quaker state or pennzoil. We had saw every mess you could see over the years. Most bad messes were always chalked up as BAD OIL, CHEAP OIL !!! Thats what happens if you use garbage!!! Over the years, i came to realize those that bought cheap oil had bad habits in life. They didn't take care of their money, their cars, or themselves for that matter. This is why their engines were crappy, their lives were, and their health was. Keep it changed and you will keep an engine going a long time. Much healthier. I am still a Castrol man. But, I no longer rail on others.
Попробуйте интереса ради термопарой ткнуть в выпускной коллектор мотора, который часик провёл толкаясь в пробке в 30 градусную жару, вас ждёт большой сюрприз. Если двигатель турбовый - ещё лучше, откройте капот после часа езды по трассе и обратите внимание на светящуюся тёмно-малиновым светом горячую часть турбины, думаю после этого вопрос отпадёт.
