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Its supposed to be dry, you need to hold it firmly (don't put a lot of pressure) against the spinning wheel for a few seconds, the heat generated from the friction should sufficient to soften it and apply it to the wheel, you only need a light film, do not overload or you will ruin your wheel, its best to reapply the compound frequently. An alternative way, is to use a heat gun and heat the metal surface, apply the compound at the hot surface, then on the wheel to get a good even coverage
you can but you won't get good results as the sander is rigid and doesn't conform one way or another, in some spots you will be taking off too much, in other spots the sander won't reach easily.
How do you clean the bar or tube of the compound abrasive itself? Mine eventually gets black and it seems I'm just moving dirt back and forth - bar of No5 compound to wheel to metal and back again
Get a scarp metal edge and try to separate the plies while the wheel is running, the hardened black edge will be removed and the wheel will be renewed. Even if the color is still dark, The wheel will still work as new as long as you remove the baked on compound with the help of a metal scraper, a serrated edge will work even better! We will be launching a wheel cleaning tool soon, sign up to our newsletter on line10tools.com
Denim is a bit coarser, thicker, and heavier material. If you are looking for a particularly coarser option, denim is good. It will last longer, but it's also much harder to clean. Once you ruin the edge, the wheel is gone. Also, being a thick material, it causes the machine to have more vibration. From our experience, the yellow wheel is more versatile and performs better in general.
Each wheel consists of 55 to 70 plies of cotton cloths spiral sewen into a wheel shape, The white wheel cotton is normal cotton but the yellow wheel is treated for firmness.
Rust occurs when you remove the protective layer and the bare metal is exposed to the elements, its always recommended to apply some sort of a protective film after brushing to protect against new rust.
If you notice in the video I use the tip of a scrap metal edge to separate the plies of the buffing wheel, this will remove all the baked on compound and renew the wheel
What do you do when the compound has gone rock hard after just one use when you next use it? Even though it was in an air tight contain? I can't find any info on this anywhere. The sticks I bought just won't go onto the wheel now, no matter how hard or long I press. I even heated it up with a blow torch but it just burned it and it set hard again
@@maxpolaris99 Since I made this comment, I tried using it again on a cold day and it suddenly did what it was meant to. I put it on the wheel and saw the wheel change colour for the first time and was buffing like a sonofabitch. Have no idea why they wouldn't work in summer but they worked when it was only 10 degrees.
The compound is supposed to be solid, you can apply it to the wheel while its turning, hold it firmly for a few seconds but dont apply pressure, the heat generated from the friction should allow the compound to be applied to the wheel, no matter how hard it gets. Also, don't use a blow torch, use a hair drier on low, it will melt it down enough to be more malleable if you prefer Good luck!
Used it for the first time last weekend definitely worth buying if you're a person who likes detailing your own car recommend first time to use on lowest setting 800 so you don't burn paint don't leave in one spot keep moving it over paint easy to use ru-vid.comUgkxfzbDkCRyv3CFXnLZI4APZtRRuG2uRmP2 truck looks like new again used maguires black light battery life like all milwaukee products seem to hold up well 😀
Lol, he did.... I don't think this gentleman knows what a ferrule is, if u know what I mean. Next video, "Join us on our next video as we finally grind down those pesky grooves on the irons face".
USE THE STOCK YOUR CUTTING!!!!! I have a scar from 2 stitches on my index finger.....and my index finger......use the stock and ask yourself each time you adjust height "how deep do I want cut?".....when I had my accident I had about 2k hours on a tablesaw.....how much experience do you have?
While yes, it's a useful tool, nobody needs it to set blade height for a through-cut, just put the material next to the blade and raise it until the teeth are over it. Where this is great is if you're setting up a slot, dado, tenon, or other non-through cut and need a precise height.
