@@kathrynwhitby9799are you mad? It never rains in the UK 🤭🤭😁 It won't matter too much, if I get a huge puddle I'll start it without the decompressor and let it boil off. Or sponge it out. 💪
Good on your dad for passing that toolmakers box on to you! I couldn't afford one when I was an apprentice nearly 60 years ago, you hardly ever see them on the S/H market or at autojumbles so for years I used a 'Kennedy' steel one which is undergoing an 'oily rag' restoration. A few months back Machine Mart had an offer on their wooden chests so I finally took the plunge and it's pretty good for the money. Those Zeus charts on yours look 'Proper Job'!
All that metal. Reckon you are going to need to 'Add Lightness' to this beast. 1st step would be to put some big holes in those chainwheels. Bet you could lose 1lb per wheel! Even those spacers don't need all that metal. Just a thought.
@@brandywell44 I think it was a shaft grinder. There's a grinding wheel on it, and I doubt you'd be able to remove <10 microns in a lathe. (Though knowing the Internet someone may prove me wrong!).
@@josega6338 not really. They went out of production in the 1950s and when Rolls Royce took over the Bristol, by all accounts they worked hard to destroy it. Spares are very rare, you're looking at eBay and the net - with a good dose of luck required! Anything airworthy will be eye wateringly expensive.
@@StoneEng SNECMA produced Bristol engines under license for the Noratlas, tractor pulling teams in France use these engines. There was one recently in eBay, from Greece, 5'000 € plus 3'000 € shipment. No Money, No cry!
GR8 work! What Bristol SSV Air Cooled Cylinders deserve, I'd say, is being basis for a 6-flat engine, perfect for a Truck or Bus. I failed in locating 6 Bristol Cylinders, Pistons, Rods, junkheads and so in, to make it
@@Nottsmodifiedcarchannel yes that's the plan. I'll have a go myself first, I'll buy some bends and weld them up. If it looks naff then I'll pay a custom hydroforming company. But I want to have a go first. (I'm not a welder!).
@StoneEng yes bein ya own project doin it all ya self is the main goal but some time a little help is good :) the amount of work you have put in so far is true awsome
I have the Z axis one too, all three in good condition, I was going to convert my Bridgeport but ended up buying a Bridgeport Interact 4 cnc with a 4th axis
@@bradwiebelhaus7065 should be. As long as the arm of the DTI is parallel to the travel of the table, any slope on the table at the point of contact is irrelevant. I'll let you know when I've drilled the holes 😁
I also owned a 2018 Eldorado , I did attend to the neck bearing greasing earlier and I wouldn't be too quick change out from the ball bearings . (There aren't too many race bikes using roller bearing .)
@@peterfowler8044 great bikes aren't they? As long as you don't need to hustle. Both bearings replaced at the front and it's a night and day difference 💪
It doesn't matter how long something takes to make, the time will pass anyway whether you make it or not!! So you may aswell make it! I imagine you have called it a bitch a few times and it was stuborn to start so i am guessing female!!! :-)
I had a Lemon II at one stage and consequently a copy of 'Guzziology'. I remember the chapter on head bearings was quite firm on the correct way to grease them prior to fitment, and that a lot of people don't do it comprehensively enough. The author's method was to cup the assembled bearing in two hands with copious amounts of grease and then squeeze the hands together thus forcing the said grease into every nook and cranny in the bearing.
@@crispindry2815 I'll bear that in mind. So far I've spent the day making custom tooling to press all the races home. How does anyone manage without a lathe?
Still think the fuel tank? Is very close to the chain .if it flexies with the enormous single firing pulse's and stretches it looks like it could chew the bottom of the tank ( I do hope I am wrong and there's plenty of clearance)
Thought I'd move on my ML7 when I got my Harrison, but I've made a few devices that use the Myford's chucks (dividing head etc) so I'm hanging on to it ! I'm a bit of a Luddite as far as CAD is concerned, so I went old school and measured the footprints of all my equipment, drew them to scale, then cut them out of an old cereal box, then spent some time shuffling them around on a sheet of graph paper to optimise the use of space/light and also keeping the welding/grinding areas away from the machine section.
My shop is in my basement, so I too have limited space. From the video I think I would move the new lathe to where the drill press and toolbox are. move the toolbox to where the new lathe is, drill press to where the diamond grinder is and the grinder to the table with the other grinder. A simple rotating table for the grinders so you rotate which one you need outward when you need it. In my shop I put everything on wheels because some projects require more room than I have. Even my 4200-pound milling machine can be rolled out of the way if needed, but it's not going to hurt my back to move all your shop around so that makes it easy to make recommendations from my recliner
The power pulses will destroy any chain you fit.. & tires.. you'll need to damp torque down through a torque converter.. I'd have considered a big Vtwin box.. Suz m109 or Kawasaki vn2000 already have orientation to shaftdrive sorted & robust gearset
To determine if the valve is hollow, drop it into a burette of water and measure the displaced volume and multiply by the mass density of steel. Compare the result with the actual measured weight. If solid, then the numbers should be a near match. Simple!
