Also anti scalp wheels are also optional. As well. I have a 2011-12 model. And have spent days tracking down a grass catcher bag kit. Finally I was able to get one.
I got about 4 years out of mine. Won’t start now. Replaced the wand, then the wand broke. Paid 1000 dollars back then. Takes about 5 minutes to get to full pressure. I wouldn’t buy another one.
I got a barn find a month ago sr143316kve that's the 1997 33 inch cut w/14 ho kohler for 350$ well maintained with records stapled inside the original manual.
mines a series 23 w/ a 12.5 Intek engine & 28in deck w/ the mulch cover. I love it. The B&S engine shows no signs of stopping despite being about 20yrs old. I dont eactly know what year my mower is..... does anyone know a sure-fire way to determine the year? I think it's an 05, but it could be anywhere in that range really. My dad bought a new 2019 model in 2020 and gave me this one. I've removed the reverse lockout and defeated the seat kill switch too. Took the water bottle holder off & installed the mulch kit. It's a great mower for a residential property. I just damn near overhauled it....and only spent about $60!!! What a treat.
In your first pictorial, you correctly point out that good carbonation is a COMBINATION of Cold Temperature, Pressure, and surface area. I wish you had gone on from there with your explanations.in relation to your system[s]. The one that most confuses, is that you have the incoming water at a small differential of the CO2 gas pressure. In your first picture, the 'pressure' referred to is the Highest Differential of the CO@ infusing gas, ABOVE whatever H2O pressure. Ideally up to 150 psi CO2 ( I use 56) over ambient (zero)a H20 pressure. That, along with COLD temperature (maintained until serving) and either agitation/or H2O "spray" provides surface area for the best infusion. Thanks.
Im in Alabama and Im starting to buy these for fix and resell. they are so rugged and not hard to work on at all ! Like the guy said Facebook Marketplace is the place ! A really nice used one is bringing about $800 and a Turd cost about $150. sometimes you can luck up and someone will sell a pretty nice one for $450 But Not me haha
@@mikealldredge9638 yea i bought one for $200 but it has a quite a few issues I gotta fix. Its gonna be my mower to use though, not sell. Youre right about what they sell for. I saw a really nice one go for 950.
I'm a stihl user 100% I bought a brand new th 600 on my third tank of gas the pump went out,,,just 2 months out of warrenty,,,my dealer keeps making excuses, absolutely no dealer support,,,,,,gona just scrap it and go to northern tool and get on of there's,,,,Honda motor and Kat pump
there is a kill swtich under the seat. Either duct tape it "down/pushed in"....or do like I did and removed it entirely....I think I just have a wire nut on the old wire....perhaps you join 2 together... I don't remember exactly but no matter how you go about it, it's very easy to achieve.
I have a question, please. Mine is a fairly old model, I've looked on the back for ID but nothing. Anyway, someone had burned up the stater trying to fix an ignition issue and has the wiring a bit messed up, with missing wire and obviously wrong hook ups. But that has nothing to do with the question... I just like babbling. I'm starting with a jumper cable directly to the starter to check for spark, and will figure it all out from there. The problem is, though I'm in neutral the engine won't spin but about 3/4 of a turn by hand or under starter power. Iong story shorter, I know it's not locked up from internal engine damage. It feels like it's just not in neutral when turned by hand, but I have it in neutral. Also, important to say It was running until the owner had ignition issues. Is there some type of safety engine brake or other safety device on this thing? I can't push pedals or the clutch while trying to start it because I of course can't get to them from the back where I'm jumping the starter and I'm alone. Can someone offer a solution ? FWIW, it's old enough to have the all metal engine cowling, but other than that I've no data on it for reasons given. Thanks for any help.
3/4 turn and lock up sounds like a locked engine to me ! Open Valve interfering with the piston Or here is a roken connecting rod ! Was there any oil in it ?? There is no engine brake on these so you should always be able to turn it by hand. if being in gear was a problem you would feel your efforts pushing the mower forward, but usually the looseness of the belt when not running would allow turning the engine..
@@mikealldredge9638 Thanks, Mike, turns out it was semi locked. I was reluctant to just lube the cylinder and wrench it loose because it at first seemed like a solid lock, but I did get a bit more movement out of it so went for it and it spins freely now. Evidently the piston was near top, brother left the carb open, took on water and froze an inch or so, of travel. Now to figure out the wiring mess, where he completely fried the stator trying to fix the ignition. I can find zero identifiers on to mower body, only the engine. If it isn't one thing it's in another.
You may be the only one who can answer this. Typically is the wheel width the same as as the deck width? Looking at a 25" deck model but widest width cannot exceed 29" to fit in my van and ramp. I would think when you cut close, you don't want cut width to be smaller than the outside of wheels.
Get that one! I just measured my 28in Hi-Vac and it's 30in wide......which means it would need a space at least 32in to be able to drive in carefully without scratching and hitting stuff. My rear wheels are about as wide at the deck.... perhaps on your 25in the widest part are the rear tires. Take a tape measure when you go see it!! Heck, cut a board to 29in and carry that over there with you!
"the mowers change very little" <<<<<<<<<< That is a HUGE MISCONCEPTION that leads folks to mixing parts from one Series / Models to another that CREATES problems that then CAN'T be solved, even crates safety problems.
Just found the same pump, but only the pump, to buy. I have a small company that make homemade soda. Can I use it? how I should built to put the co2? alrerady have the equipment to fix de tho bottles
I have two 28-inch cut Snappers. One from 1984 and the second from 2007. The drive mechanism on my early mowers is the same as these mowers shown. Really simple to maintain and work on. Just hope I can keep my two going for few more years.
They actually brought them back, for a time right??? I have a newer one, bought it used but I believe it's a model RE110? It has a 11.5HP B&S, a 28" deck, rack and pinion steering, but it's missing the bars you can stand it up on the back end with. My local power equipment shop tells me you can actually buy the bars and add yourself.
@@REVNUMANEWBERN Yeah, as soon as I got a couple problems corrected on that mower, I flipped it and made some money.. That's what I like doing, since I retired a year ago.
I'm still using one that has handlebars and the 11 horsepower Briggs motor...33 inch deck....and leaf and grass bagger....they should bring back the first generations of this mower...one of the best consumer lawn mowers ever built!!!
He has MUCH misinformation and BAD WRONG assembly info & practices concerning the differentials and chain cases, do NOT drive the chain case needle bearings BACH INTO the case assembly to limit the designed in end play, doing so LIMITS / HINDERS the needle bearings from getting grease properly, I speak as a 40+ year EMPLOYEE that worked IN & ON those assemblies AT the plant.
If you haven't fixed the vibration issue, take a look at an industrial supplier, such as MSC, Grainger, Johnstone...; look for isolation mounts. They are some w/ studs from either end of a central rubber piece, or some w/ 2 or 3 holes in a mounting plate on the bttm, & a stud on the top. Common widget in industrial automation. Thanks for posting, I think you gave me the clue to why the McCann I have isn't working; need a H2O supply regulator. Incoming PSI too high. Plus, I've been wondering if I could hook up a 5 gallon soda keg inline to provide more volume, if needed. Looks like it's easy. I was stressing over all SS fittings for my hoses, etc. Then, I slapped my forehead as I looked at the brass pump & fittings. I bought SS, if they were readily available & not 10x's the $ of no lead brass, otherwise bought nylon or no lead brass. Plus, it's highly likely the inside passages of the CO2 regulator are brass, w/ nickel plating only on the outside, if at all. Just don't use unknown brass fittings, or anything that'll rust.
Thanks for the video. I'm still using the Snapper 307XS, which my dad purchased in 1968 (I was 10 years old then) for me to cut the lawn with. I am on about the 7th or 8th engine replacement so far. Just finished refreshing the differential, chaincase, boots, and did a general maintenance workover on it. I really like the simplicity of the design of the 307XS, as there are much less useless "safety" items on it. Common sense has now been supplanted by safety devices, as they just don't teach common sense anymore to the newer generations.
I just bought one and I'm fixing it up. I have the older version that is lowered to the ground lower center gravity because I live in the mountains and I live on a lot of slopes makes it. A lot easier to mow and not tip over.😊😊😊