DIY home improvement projects and hand made crafts anyone can do. With my award winning personality... ok, no awards... yet... Dedicated to my daughter for all the things she may want to know how to do one day, that we never got to learn together...
I used hot glue but honestly construction adhesive would be better. glue melts in heat so go with a tube of construction adhesive and just be sure to right up the plastic on the bucket with sandpaper for proper adherence. Thanks and good lucl!
Yea ill get the engineer to draw op plans and schematics and once the city reviews ill pull permits and have a structural engineer check for integrity for a mouse trap or not.. they work well enough they are sold commercially so maybe try it.. or don't try it up to you. happy hunting
this isn't overengineered at all. it's so basic a child can do it... proof proof everyone cries about proof. yet wont step out to even try it and believe Cardone will make them rich lmao
So arguably you could but it does serve a purpose from saving you from clogged drains or fishing something out of the ptrap every time that something falls in the sink. That being said you could use like a threaded pipe cap to cover the hole where the pivot rod enters and use teflon tape or plumbers putty to prevent leaking.. I would still leave it in there though as once you drop something that is big enough to clog the line it will cause issues down the road and it will save you from unassembling and cleaning out the ptrap every time it backs up from this.
@@alexgamez24 get one of the flexible drain cleaning rods that has the claw you can open and close and just use it on all drains. Its gross I agree but much less than raw sewage backing up throughout your house if you let the main drain line cloged with hair or debris :)
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Poz_qVFYz-U.html try the long form it goes step by step.. really hard to do a comprehensive vides in a short so its more the highlights.. thank you
Yea that is the tricky part just be sure to face the stopper rod opening to the back of the sink towards the faucet. YOu can put tape on the top marking the stopper direction as well until its done. There is a little bit of play there so once its in place you can move it up or down slightly until the rod slips in. I'm sure you will get it fixed.. take care
@@ninjadiy2022 Thanks, appreciate the tips. I ended up buying a new drain stopper as the piece at the bottom of the original one with the whole broke off it. With that said once I dropped the stopper in the sink I had trouble lining up the whole with the pivot rod. It was very hard to see it as you said. But somehow I guess even though I could not get the pivot rod through the whole it was still touching it and the stopper was moving up and down. When I lift up the lift rod the drain just about goes all the way up. Enough to where it does hold the water. When I push down the lift rod the drain stopper comes back up but it’s almost a little too high up but should be ok. Everything seems to work, although not perfect, so I think I will leave it as is? Maybe if I get motivated I will try it again.
@@mr.perksy lol yea its a pain cause you just cant see what your doing inside the drain :) you can adjust the height it lifts too using the pinch clip that connects to the lift rod. But to your point if its working now maybe its good. Take care
Nah if you watch the dangers of using pallets video you most likely would not want those in your house much less under where you or family are sleeping.This way you keep the pallet look with none of the toxins.
@@jdub1922 There are a bunch of videos out there. Mine covers some of the issues but basically if its not a virgin pallet you could have any type of chemical leached into the wood, mold is very common on pallets, plus any other fibers/grease/oil from being in a wharehouse environment. Also the amount of prep and time to turn it into something nice loses the value of a "free" pallet to me. again just my opinion overall on it and why i made this so i could trust it was safe to be in my house with someone sleeping on it.
Thank you! Yes for me it just became tricky to mount and secure it using bolt as they would have to be inside the tube. It gave me a little more clearance and ability to adjust/align it as well.
Thats a different design than in this video. The best thing is to look and the mfg spec sheed exploded view and you can see what malfunctioning on those
You can slow it down in settings or watch the long form version for more detail.. Its hard to do a complete step by step breakdown in a 60 sec short :)
Right after the carpenter hung that door the painter pulled all the hinges off. Took all the doors off. Painted everything and put all the hinges back on different doors.
I just made it and right away I could see the need for an important addition to guarantee greater efficiency - counter weights. Tape 4 inch nails on each side parallel to the fulcrum. They make the swinging more positive and stable, ensure that the cardboard returns to a secure horizontal position right away to minimise the chance of a gap for the mouse/rat to escape. You can adjust the position of the nails until it's perfectly balanced.
Great idea! I used hot glue on the bottom of the other side as the counterweight. The counterweight is a must to return it back to the closed position.
I read someone taped 2 buckets together after cutting the bottom off of the top one. Used Crisco all over the inside of the buckets, added water 1/3 way full in bottom bucket to prevent traction, no ability to jump out so they drown.
@@tanyasanchez1742 Yea that's a common design as well. Any type of oil/grease on sides prevents escape and the double bucket prevents jumpers too. Mostly I think for larger rodents.
It works try to use whatever bait they are going for in your house.. seeds or peanut butter work good but use whatever they are eating at your home as bait. Good luck!
So for each size bed your materials list would be different. The best way is to measure your mattress and go slightly larger. For height the vertical supports were only 4" but combined it ends up being 12" tall for the base. With the mattress this ended up being 2' tall. If you wanted to make it taller I would adjust the vertical supports to maybe 6". I just did mine this way to keep as close to a pallet look as possible. Honestly I wanted to add drawers which could easily be done but that took away from the look too. I hate wasted space :) good luck with yours I am sure it will turn out great!
actually it works good enough there are commercial designs on it.. if your having issues with them getting out use oil on inside of bucket and make sure to make a trail of seeds up ramp. Good luck!
The fudging morons at my house decided to replace the fudging pipes it looks like??? WTF theres no way to connect the action lever to the F-in pipes WTF... and like an idiot I pushed the stopper thing down, thinking it might be one of those pop up ones. WOW. How royally F'd am I?
Watch the video as a normal video and that will allow you to slow down the speed. Google “ how to play RU-vid short as video” it’s super easy to do. Hope it helps and have a great day
