Hey just a quick question. when im using the resizing die for 30-06, should the casing be all thr way in to the point where thr shellholder is touching the die?
Any idea why most Lee die sets don't come with the crimp die? If I can't get the Deluxe set of dies from Lee... I always have to spend the additional $28-ish to get the factory crimp die. Why not include this? Is it because there are purist (ass-hats) who say "you only need a crimp die if you don't know how to set up your dies"? It makes very little sense to me.
In this video he is resizing the brass and then priming it in the same action on the press. I don't do this. The most boring part of reloading is brass preparation and in my opinion the brass should be, resized, checked for faults, measured and trimmed for length and the primer pocket should be cleaned before repriming. Some things can be determined about the previous load by cleaning and checking the primer pocket.
I've loaded and fired many 30-06 rounds for many years. I hunt mainly mule deer and elk plus some other things along the way. My shots are usually inside 300 yards. I have come to like the 165 grain bullets the best for my rifles. I do have to say even though 4064 is a wonderful powder I believe you could make a better choice for the 165 grain bullet. However 4064 is my powder of choice for the 35 Whelen because it can push that 225 grain bullet to .338 win. mag. velocities from a necked out 30-06 case. No powder I have can push a 220 grain bullet from my 30-06 at that velocity.
This occurs a lot there are many different reasons for this could be tarnish could be a different lot of copper but that will not affect the bullets performance unless they are corroded
Finding appropriate bullets for the .33 can be a challenge. I recently located 3 boxes of 200 grain Woodlieghs and I’ve heard of people using a 210 partition and filing a flat nose.
I might be sending mine back screw that. All those guys in the first video talking about how you were making a big deal over nothing. Yeah I didn’t think you were at all whatsoever. I get it they will be destroyed anyway. Well I would like to have a product that’s not damaged to begin with. Before it gets destroyed after what I paid for them. I mean seriously that’s like getting a loaf of bread seeing a little bit of mold on it and being told to just pick it off. Because your just going to chew it up anyway so what’s it matter.
Been using mine for a few years now. Has always worked well for me. Mine still has the rubber ring, no issues with it. Primer case needs a tap every now and then as the primers can bridge occasionally. Overall I found it to be a great tool for the money.
The .33 is a great round but bullets are getting harder to find since Hornsby stopped making their 200 grain flat point. Cast works well in this round as well.
Dear C.S. enjoyed your .33 wcf/m1886 videos. Will definitely try Lee lube for my next reforming project. Had to laugh when you used the Forester trimmer the way you did. Been there/done that. Share your frustration with current political situation. Keep up the excellent work! Sense you are a kindred spirit.----Tpf
It's normal, they just didn't tumble them long enough. They will shoot just fine. If it bugs you put them in your brass tumbler for about a day with some case cleaner and they will look just fine.
Nice vid. That's a good looking press. Do you find that when the shellplate indexes, one or two kernels of powder will jump out of the case? I used to ream out my crimped primer pockets like you do but it just wasn't good enough sometimes so I bought the Dillon 600 Super Swager. Another step but it's fast and easy and, so far, foolproof. I like a seating die with a side window on a progressive press. Speeds up the process a little bit. I'll check out some of your other vids. 👍🙋♂️
