An important side note here is when handling the internals of a regulator is to keep all contaminants out especially grease and oil which can ignite in the presence of high pressure oxygen
U did things the hard way. First before u even remove the engine mount bolts u loosen the armature rotor. U lock the flywheel in place with a 3" piece of ring gear from a junk flywheel, place it between the engine flywheel and the starter, meshing the flywheel ring gear teeth and the 3" piece together. Cheater bar and a large cresent wrench unscrew the rotor the same direction the engine runs. Soooo much easier than the way u did it.
@@arcounited I wondered about valve seals if they might have been leaking oil into the cylinders. I'm ready to pull the rotor on my Hobart Champion 10,000 and it is not budging. I thought I had broken it free but the engine had become unlocked. So I put the rope in the cylinder and can hold the motor now but it is not budging. Might try a little heat tomorrow unless you have a better idea. I wish I had the right tool to hold it with . A pipe wrench eats that shaft up pretty good.
I've got a Hobart Champion 10,000 with a locked up motor. This helps a lot. I was thinking it might be easier to get that generator rotor loose with the motor still fastened to the frame but it looks like it came off pretty easy.
@@arcounited I'm ready to pull the rotor now but gonna let it rest tonight. Yes the video definitely helped I put masking tape on all of my wires with numbers written on the tape. On pins that I couldn't label I drew out a description of it and gave them a number on paper. I've never had to worry about the oil in this welder because of its safety shutdown. I became too trusting of it after 18 years and that safety shutdown stopped functioning. I ran it low on oil and locked it up I'm ashamed to say.
@@arcounited I see now where I had bypassed the oil safety switch when it failed so I could get a job done and forgot to order the part and put that safety feature back in place. My motor is unlocked now . I thought I had broke the rotor free but it was the motor becoming unlocked. So now I have rope in the cylinder and can hold the motor but the rotor will not budge. I'm gonna have to strap the welder down to even have a chance of breaking the rotor loose. That Stator is some kind of heavy!
!WARNING! I just picked up a Victor Weldmark RC250-125-540 reg because I couldn't get parts for my offshore unit. Before I used it I wanted to see if kits were available, and they are not! Apparently if the model number is not stamped on the upper ring it cannot be repaired because they don't supply parts! This new one has no model or serial numbers on it. Beware of the Victor off shoots like Weldmark and Radnor. Victor is selling out on their once good name :~(
What motor is in that machine , also how many hours i have the same model with an onan motor 1200 hour just want to calculate how many life is in my motor
This vid was a great reminder that I would've unhesitatingly cast instant skepticism & doubt on whether or not this fella could give me proper advice on a torch regulator re-fit if I hadn't immediately noticed that unmistakable rural twang... which, of course, dismissed that same potential skepticism just as quickly. No political bs yadayada implied here either: rural/country/Southern folk are just ~a billion times likelier to be able to spell out things like this as if they were describing yesterday's weather to you is all. Just my city-slicker $.02...
Good video. The only thing is to make sure to wear gloves to prevent any oil residue. Any oil can spontaneously combust in the presence of high pressure oxygen. If it is dirty inside the regulator, it can be cleaned with dish soap and water. Check for leaks with a spray bottle of soapy water.
