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Other than washing fresh water into each end, which I have to admit seems redundant for those of us on the Great Lakes, what about any lubrication steps? Mine seems to be misbehaving since I got a new genoa from North Sails. I love the sail, but I have not been able to find the happy spot of halyard tension that allows the roller-furler to work as it used to do. I do not know if it is a luff-length issue or a halyard tightness issue or what.
Easily the best presentation I have ever seen for roller furler inspection. Comprehensive yet succinct. Would also like Captain Canning’s guidance on reefing the jib by partially furling. Thanks, Captain Rock
I AM IN THE PROCESS OF REPLACING THE CHAIN AND CABLE. I find your video of great value, until it came to attaching the cable to the quadrant. It is the round aluminum type. I would greatly appreciate help with this one.
Great info…. my open skiff I use in Alaska has been on my mind. In my youth and up through my early forties I was in good enough shape to climb up on my kayak or up into a skiff like I have now. Since I’m usually out by myself I was thinking I should get a ladder attached to the boat so that I could reboard if I went over (I use the kill device on a cord attached to my life vest, so the boat will still be there, but what good is that if I can’t get back aboard because I’m old and crippled now?)
Using a wire tie /ziplock to seize anything is a bad choice as the embrittle with exposure to UV. That is especially true with white or clear ties. They rarely last more than one season. Best buy a reel of monel wire, lasts almost indefinitely.
Just got a boat with StaLok rigging. Looks ok but is a few years old. I am wondering if I unscrewed the fitting can I inspect the wires inside, then refit, without damage?
Clockwise, always clockwise, commercial, navy, CG, yachts, now or 200 years ago. Yes to the butterfly, or other coils we use in rescue but clockwise as a basic coil, including countering clockwise and anti-clockwise coils to "cancel" twists (common for audio and tv co-ax audio cable. Lost me at counter or anti clockwise coils...
Thank you for an informative video! I have found the steering on our S&S 30 to be quite stiff, even after lubrication. The steering is uniformly stiff from lock to lock and the boat is very tiring to helm and of course there is no "feel". I suspect that whoever has serviced it has tensioned the chain or the cables too much. What do you think?
Great video - thanks. I like your comment at 1 min. about it being a great Saturday afternoon project. This is my third winter and probably 50 hours into trying to get mine apart. One of the 4 bolts holding the control housing on would not come off. A couple weeks ago, I ground the head off and then sheered the bolt further down using vice grips to try and remove it. At least now I have access to finish the remainder of the "afternoon" project :).
Excellent video.Certainly learned a bit and it will be useful.Thank you for taking the time and trouble to make our sailing lives a bit easier.Rick/Seattle
Look at this link for more information in installing the furling line. His furling line runs on port side, mine runs on starboard side so rotation of drum is opposite. I have Harken Furler circa 1984. I removed the old line (3/16") and replaced it with new line (3/16") several feet LONGER than original to play it safe. Note: I removed the head sail from the system before replacing the line. My boat is a 25' Mirage and the jib is less of a monster to handle. The furling drum has a hole in the side of the drum which I passed the end of the furling line thru and tied a overhand knot in the end. The old line did not have a knot :) instead the line was turned over itself and STAPLED. There is not much clearance between the drum and the furler body for too large of a knot. In the linked video, the author recommends 30 revolutions of the drum to preload the furler. I didn't count mine because I used the same length of new furler line as the old. Once I had the drum loaded, I went ahead and reinstalled the jib and checked to make sure all was well and it was. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NcaoM9ELgwU.html
I did an adjustment of the steering cable to align the steering wheel. The cable was apparently too loose and caused vibration of the rudder post under power. I tightened the cable until the vibration went away.
