@@LifeofAccroGot that and changed the terminal code. My camera still doesn’t show up in any software (OBS, Streamlabs, Zoom, etc) besides Canon webcam utility. I don’t get it.
There’s a new MacOS update available today that mentions “Pro Video Formats” improvements, but I’m not clear whether that addresses the webcam problem described in this video. Trouble is, I’ve already done the “Restore legacy video device support” procedure to enable my Sony camera to be seen by the computer. Does anyone know if this new OS corrects the webcam problem? I’d hate to have to re-do the legacy video device support hack.
A month ago I was eskating home (drunk) at 2am from a bar, wearing Jean shorts and a long sleeve shirt. NO HELMET. I was going 40km/h and hit a pothole. I remember hitting the ground and trying to get up, but I couldnt get up and passed out. I woke up to a cop asking me what year it was. I answered wrong a few times but eventually got it together. I got brought to the hospital and they cleaned my wounds. They said I had a concussion and not to look at any screens for 2 days. I'm back on my board without a helmet or gear, but I plan on buying some. Eskates 4 life. The ultimate freedome
It's pretty straightforward. You will see where the old ones came from and where the new ones go to. You just lineup the attachment and gently press in and it will snap into place.
Nope, no audio unfortunately. For FPV, it's really not that big of a deal for me, but I could see for other action sports where you want. Some of the background sound that could be a bit of a nuisance.
Hi, Can I get the email of the customer service representative. I had this same incident recently and with same damage. I’m from the philippines. Thank you.
I can’t seem to get the screen/phrase that tells me what’s the name of my “disk3s5”. I just typed 3s5 based on the video and obviously my issue hasn’t been resolved. How can I know the system override: failed to unlock volume “xxxxxxx”?
should work, your sure youre in recovery, everything is typed/spaced exactly? if one little thing is off it wont work. You could also go into disk utility app on mac and see what value it assigns the hard drive and use that value and maybe that will work..
The LowPro 250 suits my needs but the price is RIDICULOUS. It is around $300AUD - I'll settle for a $30 bag anyday - I have several, and they lasted over a decade.
no, i wouldnt go over 3amps for most reputable cells....per parallel group..so 1p 3a, 2p 6a...etc... It's not like the cells are gonna blow up necessarily if you charge it 4A, it's just not in the best interest of their long-term health... but 2 amps is usually best for all cells' longevity
The v3 speedybee stack had several issues. Hence, they released a new v4 stack to address some of the issues v3 had. And still, you say its reported only 17A pulled, i find that its really difficult to calibrate the amp draw, because ecs/fc report that wrong all the time. You cant trust it unless you really calibrated it well. Plus there's a thing called fatigue. The components degraded over time and at one moment, esc gave up and shorted.
Well, if you'd like to download the black box, log and look for yourself here is the link to the original Reddit post where I put all of the links up. www.reddit.com/r/fpv/comments/1byhpk7/fire_escfc_ignites_on_a_basic_roll_why_watch_end/ If you pull up the table, right before the motors go dead it actually says 35 A total across all four motors before everything dies. I'm open to having a technical discussion if somebody is so inclined but as of right now, it just seems to be a bunch of speculation. It would be one thing if I was pushing the drone at 50 to 60% throttle and I said something like well I was only doing 125a and its rated at 200..... But regardless of how inconsistent the amp meter might be if I'm using less than 25% throttle for a small little blip at a hover, that is leaving way too much headroom to assume there was too many amps to do a basic roll... But take a look and let me know your thoughts if interested. thx
@@LifeofAccro When i was talking aboue amp metering, im not talking about inconsistency. im talking about wrong calibration. I have seen way to much wrong currect calibration, meaning - on one build i just arm and hover and my amp meter is showing 45A. or on other builds i had full throttle punch, and my amps hover in 10-20A range, when my motors are screaming at top rpm. you just cant trust the blackbox log, or your OSD for current measurement, unless you properly calibrated or at least verified that current meter is in the ballpark of correct measurement. in your case, im not sure. your motors dont spin more than 60% in your log, but there's lot more gyro noise on roll than on pitch or yaw. could have been that some component gave out and shorted, but for sure it looks like something shorted, because 50-60% motor output will not be enough to draw so much amps to melt solder. thats my assumption given so little i can gather from this situation.
the 60 amp speedybee esc has lots of trouble with bluejay, never flash bluejay to it, I had a new quad I built fall out of the sky on me several times due to desync until I figured out the problem and speedybee acknowledged it. Speedybee knows about the problem and told me in email something about frames being off or something. I think with all of these speedybee fc's never play around with the esc firmware, you're just asking for trouble unless you're willing to smoke them to find settings that work.
Yeah, I saw some reviews on it, I don't like the underside spot for the remote. I like having easy access and just one big deep bag and pocket like shown in this video. Even been six months later I'm still very happy with this bag and all the storage and easy in and out. Also, I have yet to travel with my drones, so I don't have any particular need for internal storage for a plane trip, but even if I did, I would most likely put a portion of the stuff in a carry-on roller so I could have a dedicated backpack for my other electronics like a computer and what not.
Your capacitor is literally gone, and the scorch marks on the carbon fiber indicate it exploded. Was the Li-Ion also 6S? Is your FC paired with that ESC? How close was the FC board to the ESC? Plenty of spacing for airflow, and no way for the μSD shield to contact the ESC FETs? Obviously it shorted, and the capacitor is gone. Maybe it shot dielectric all over the boards in the process, but I think it's more likely that a short in the FETs desoldered the left side motor wires and the cap blew off in the crash.
Reviewed again. FC spacing looked fine. Bad ESC (FETs) or bad soldering on motor leads? If it was just one set of motor wires, I'd guess it's soldering. Since it's both, I'd blame the ESC.
which version did you have? so far the v3 i have on my 7" has been solid BUT ive also never run a large lipo on it either, only liion... maybe i underestimated it for a 10", but just got the v4 wired up now since the fire, waiting on a couple other items before i can get back to test flights and tuning
just got done installing a new one...the v4 this time.. sadly to fond out the receiver and gps are dead but the AU works and so far the motors spin up and sound fine....so far... =/ im still having a hard time believing its the 5000mah battery that killed it though since i wasnt even close to WOT
Check the motor amp draw rating. Those motors with those props likely pulled more than the 50-60amps that esc is rated for. The other battery was lithium ion, and wasn’t capable of dumping amps like a 80-120c Lipo can.
Not sure on what caused it to crash, but as it crashed upside down, that is what caused you battery cable to come off board completely, then it shorted on, well EVERYTHING. If you mount battery with cables sticking up away from props, catch 22.
i dont remember but most likely it was either what they had in stock and available for the price point i was going for but i was also taking chris rossers recommendations based his frame and suggested components
That's Speedybee for you. I went through 6-7 of their esc before I gave up. Random failures like this. I only fly Tmotor F60 and Hobbywing xrotor65a now, neither have failed me in months. Speedybee uses cheap fets.
Fk speedybee escs the fcs are good tho, perfect match is hobbywing 60a esc, 405, or F7 speedybee, dual caps(Panasonic 50v 1000(a must beyond 6in) insulate the caps if inside the frame with marine grade shrink wrap
Assuming you are using a 31xx sized motor they typically pull 65 amps at WOT and the reason why this happened on the LIPO and not the LI-Ion is because of the Discharge capability between the two batteries. The FC can ask for 65 amps all it wants, but the LI-Ion is not capable of providing that power, the LIPO on the other hand can provide 65+ amps without breaking a sweat. I would recommend running a PDB and individual ESC's for each motor, you are going to have a hard time finding an AIO that can handle that much current and heat. The other suggestion would be to ditch the xt60 lead all together and switch to xt90 on the drone. XT60 connectors are rated for 60 amps, xt90 are rated for 90 amps.
Yeah, nothing to do with PIDs or settings You can even tell exactly when the stack failed, and its when the throttle was blipped, and more amps were delivered than your ESC can handle. Be aware of the power train of your quad
We will see when I add this new stack. I got the slightly newer speedy bee v4 which is rated at 55A, however, this was not the first time I had flown with a Lipo it was just the first time flying with a 5000 mill amp Lipo versus the 1000-200 I typically use use.... With that said the blackbox file says I was only pulling 17 A when I did that little blip before the role. But I guess we will see once I get everything installed once again and set up =/
@@LifeofAccro A 1200mah at 150C for example, is 1.2a x 150C = 180amps /4 motors= 45amp draw per motor. 5000mah is 5amp x 50c= 250amp / 4motors = 62.5amp draw per motor. Your esc asking for full power from the 5000mah lipo can draw 62.5amps - thats why adding the 5000mah is different from the 1200mah. This is why manufacturers have recommended batteries for BnF quads, its so you dont introduce more power than their esc can handle
@@LifeofAccrowell, i think this is another problem you didnt notice.. the weight, 5000mah is more than 2x the 2000mah weight, that leads to more usage of the motors and consequently, more power draw. This combined with the speedybee stack, and their amp delivery capability, completes the chain for the incident.
@@rubberonasphalt not a bad point, i do forget that lipo C rating and discharge changes with capacity... but even then shouldnt the stack have a limit on max amps somewhere? shouldnt matter if the motors want 100amps each (even if i had a battery that could) the FC should have some sort of predefined max threshold is stops delivering at, right?
I would say it was the amps your motors pulled during that flip, not sure what Amp that stack is but nothing else really seems to be the problem, I know long battery leads can create resistance and under high loads can desolder itself and make the battery/esc hot just some thoughts
It looks like when the left side blew up all the fire went out that side, which is what attached all the motor wires, and since the air unit was forward a little bit, it must've been just enough space that the TPU didn't melt, but some of the wires off of the air unit need to be replaced.
FPV magic! That’s what happened. Like how you can plug in a battery and it flies perfect, you unplug and plug in a new battery and it falls from the sky and burns up or flies like complete crap. The frustration and joy of the hobby, right?
is that a speedybee stack? Their quality seems not so good? Their ESC is only 50 amp? upgrade to a 60 amp quality esc with blheli32. The UAVtech tune is also not so good.
It is the speedy f405, it's my second time using this stack, it works just fine on my 7 inch with a 6S2P battery and I'm usually never pulling more than 30a while moving at a intermediate click. I still don't know exactly what the issue is, but I flew this quad harder earlier in the day as mentioned. There must've been something wrong when I switched from 48K to 24K..... but I guess we're about to find out as I've got a new stack coming, the same same one. I guess I will just stick to 48K in the meantime...
@@LifeofAccro I also have a 10 inch with 3115 motors. 24k pwn 60 amp esc. no issues. UAV tech tune sux. He has dynamic idle way too high for a 10 inch, causes major flying issues.
@@bartbutler9960 good know, will keep in mind. The only reason I was tinkering with tuning or trying to understand it is because I was watching Chris Rosser's newer videos on filter tuning, which is the first and the series, I hadn't even touched the sliders or anything anything before the ESC blew up. even when I go back and review the black box log I can see the exact moment I pump the throttle lightly to do the barrel roll and I'm not even pulling 17amps.... I'm not sure if it has anything to do with enabling the rpm filters... but otherwise the UAV tune was flying all right in general, I was just trying to see if I can get rid of some of the bubbles and wobbles when throwing flips and rolls keeping in mind. I know this is not meant to be a freestyle quad, but who doesn't want to fly a little bit fun and outside the realm of just cinematic long range =P
I don't believe there's an option to get an indicator in the goggle showing the camera is armed but it it might not be I impossible...Mayne there's an option in modes that can trigger that or something but I'm not the person to ask haha
Excellent video! Just what I was looking for. I will be getting set up to build me some batteries and I will definitely use your links when I do. Thanks for making this easy-to-understand, to the point and well put-together video series. Very much appreciated!
Hi, like I said in my previous comment, it started working for my other applications but still my Quick Time player is not detecting my external webcam. Can you suggest what could be the issue?
Finally found exactly what I was looking for, I wanted to connect my Fujifilm xt30 camera to my mac using their new Xwebcam application but it was not showing in the video capture apps. I thought that there were some issues with my camera settings, after struggling for more than a week I finally decided to test my camera in a windows system where it worked perfectly then I understood it's an OS issue, thankfully I found this video and after following the exact steps finally my camera is visible in my mac.
