Welcome to the RU-vid channel for 3D Printscape. Here you will find how to type videos for all types of 3d printers and pens as well as some comparison videos. In our videos, I'll show you all my tricks and try to walk you through some issues you may encounter along the way. This channel is geared to both new and experienced hobbyists. As always, feel free to leave comments on our videos, I would love to hear your feedback.
I keep missing something. My screen is way too different from yours, especially with all the welcome crap. I've got the correct files downloaded, I've got the extensions downloaded and installed. I've got everything done step by step. I'm TOO new, so there's a lot I don't understand. Maybe I should have tried printing something first before installing upgrades. It's discord time. There's nothing wrong with your teaching methods, these are great videos.
Thanks for the video, however when i click on the download button for the slicer it takes me to some github page with a bunch of files on the left hand side. I do not have a download button. I have downloaded v1.1.5 but i was having issues with my printer connecting to the wifi network so i uninstalled, reset my computer and now i want to reinstall but i have no .exe in the list of files on the left hand side. I must be missing something. Any ideas on whats going on with qidi slicer???
How do we get the PLA to stop the plastic coming out before it prints, I had the code for Cura but not for Orca Slicer any help would be brilliant thanks.
Thank you Rob for such an amazing video. I’ve managed to set up my CR Touch because of you. I do occasionally have the problem that the X axis overshot and cause the belt to slip. Is there any idea on how to fix this?
Thanks for the video. I got a lot more further with this video than any other guide. I am having a strange issue though. Once its fused and cooled down, the slightest bend causes it to snap. Am I heating it up too much? :/
So I'm having camera issues. I connected it to my laptop to ensure it works and it does. It's plugged into my pi has been for over a year but I went about 4 months or so without using it and not it doesn't show an image. I checked the URL and everything is the same but the camera won't show an image. Ideas?
I watch your videos. about the sonic pad. Recently I bought it but I am looking for a cura profile for my CR10S Pro V2. Do you have any idea where I can find a profile Thanks in advance
hi. i'm from Brazil. Actually i've try to install the firmware but in my screen doesn't appeared bed level. i've try many times with different firmwares and nothing. what i have to do
QUESTION for anyone. I have the original Ender 3. I upgraded to the silent mainboard a while back. I just ordered the CR touch. should I be able to just plug the CR touch into the main board and print? What will I need to do as far as firmware and stuff? i cant find a direct answer for this specific questions. maybe that means I'm just all set. thanks to whoever chimes in here.
What about SFS 2.0? It has a 4-pin cable. 4 to SFS and 2x2 for SKR (as BTT recommends in instruction). But, I'm not sure that in this case, it will work as expected, when of the print host is TFT35. What do you think?
so i have leveled it out and the auto home is great and i did the z offset then when i go to level the bet the nozzle is still hovering slightly. i have tried to do all steps in order the right way 5 times and i am still having trouble. the probe of the cr touch seems to be at triggering before the nozzle has a chance to touch the plate. i even tried a print and it was still to far above the build plate. any help would be appreciated.
Hi. The probe should always trigger before the nozzle touches the bed, thats why there is a z offset. When i level the bed i do it manually without the system on. So basically lowering the z axis to touch the paper at point one then move it to point two making the necessary adjustments, then repeating for the rest.
Using the btt touch screen simply cranking up the extrude setting and hitting extrude is going to put the same pressure you was talking about when using emulated mode. What you didn't mention is that the touchscreen has a terminal, allowing entry of gcode to control the extrude more precisely: M92 return estep value G1 E100 F50 extrude 100mm slowly M92 [n] set esteps to value [n] In your case : M92 100.82 Of course that needs to be saved to eprom with: M500 Terminal is your friend and is also good for pid autotune
Your guide seems to be outdated, the Klipperscreen.conf is in the wrong place and there seems to be various issues when using your guide to setup. They did changes to klipperscreen and mainsail. You should try setting up again using these steps and you will see your guide does not work properly.
I removed the z-switch and it's still telling me Homing Failed: Printer halted. I think I got the latest firmware but the website is different now. When I put in the SD card for the first time I never saw it updating anything. and the Software version is not showing Marlin. Any ideas? EDIT: Changing the name of the firmware .bin file worked for me. Doesn't really make sense to me because it was already a new firmware file but whatever.
Thanks so much for the video, I just found one of these and I’m kind of new to the 3-D printing stuff. I intend to watch some more of your videos. Thanks again.
A single wall gets more accurate this way. But its not optimal for merging anything. A rough visual example of 3 walls. Original flow (__)(__)(__) = 1.5mm ~ After you calibrated. <_><_><_> = 1.2mm~ The touching points get smaller.
Awesome video, I appreciate the time you took to go step by step from step 1 to the end on how to assemble it. I tip my hay to you. I recently purchased this model and did exactly what you did in the video except for doing some engraving Im finding out different ways to use my tablet or phone because I don't have a PC laptop at the moment. I was wondering since you made this video have you done any more engravings or cuts by chance I'd really like to see more using this machine. again thank you so very much you been a alot of help and more God bless.
Great , but I don’t understand why you are changing an all hotend if it’s an only one difference between those two : nozzle . It easier to heat up the nozzle and swap it properly . It’s about 2 minutes ?
Hi, the profiles on you're cura links, are they the same ones you use with this direct drive upgrade? I am having a nightmare with my direct drive with the extruder gear clicking so far into a print, it could be 5 minutes in or it could be 1 hour in and at varying heights so there is no consistency. Any help with this would be really appreciated. Thank you
Hi. They are not specific for direct drive, you will want to tune the retraction settings a bit. It sounds like you may have a partial nozzle clog or something similar (which would add more resistance).
Hi. Unless you are maxing out the specs on the device it wont have much of an impact on print time, so they should be the same for one printer. That said, there are some edge cases on prints that could be slower with the processor in both. Im testing out the CB2 board upgrade on the Pad 7.
Thank you bro, I haven't ported the software you uploaded yet, but I am glad that you did this video! My screen just freezes after the print starts. It displays properly. But doesn't update. No progress updates either. Also I can't get into the menu during a print and pause for example. It still beeps when I press the button which is odd.
@@rikb.7772 You should be able to still flash creality firmware. If your getting a blue screen make sure the firmware is right and the file name is different than used before (must be unique).
i have tried multiple times getting my klipperscreen to make it able to toggle between my 2 instances. Ive used your video as well as aurora techs and even a third and i am not getting that option. i can switch between them in fluidd as it recognizes them, on the pad 7 it has a "KlipperScreen" button and within that has a printer connections button but only shows 7125. unsure what is wrong as ive started over numerous times with same outcome
Hi there. This is going to be totally random request. But you seem to be the man. So I have built a metal printer head printing head. ok so it will print .4 mm so great but not fantastic. it has all sorts of issues but it prints stainless steal the same as if it would have been pla. So the slicer should be ok but needs to run 1/4 as fast. Like I said it has some quirks but it runs. Here is my problem: I have been given an ender 3 with a v4.2.2 board. And a ARM st processor. It had an auto levelling doda on that has been removed. OK so with the fan and heaters bead and head, as well as the auto levelling doda I need to remove all of this from the firm ware. So with my non-existent knowledge I have been in there hacking about but I don’t think I will get this figured out before i retire!! and that’s 10 years off!! So I am reaching out. how do I removed the bead heater head fan head heater and censor But still get normal pla g code to run the drives xyz and feed. What would be nice is if I have an output say heater output to say when to deposit metal. Any help or suggestions where I could ask for help would be greatly appreciated. Kevin H
Hi. The short answer is i dont think it will be easy to do that. I think most of that will end up being settings in the firmware pre-compile. Im not sure you can disable them and the build be successful. It may need additional things to be disabled and lines in the sanity check being commented as well.
i have an ender 3 s1 plus and i'm currently not able to get a custom firmware for it while keeping touchscreen functionality. is there any way i can do it just through gcode or so? or a workaround?
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I used it on an Ender 3 running a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 motherboard. I was initially intending on splitting the 5-pin connector on the CR Touch to create a JST 2-pin connector for the Zstopper port but figured there has to be another way - this was it! So, for those looking to see if this works with the same set up, it sure does. I also worked off the Marlin Bugfix 2.1.x file without a problem. When enabling auto bed leveling in Visual Studio Code, be sure to disable mesh bed leveling otherwise you'll get an error when building the firmware at the end. First time attempting anything like this and this tutorial was spot on! Thank you again.
OMG, do you realize your video is the ONLY detailed one I’ve found. I couldn’t install my drivers for 4 days, going back and forth with CS, thank you so much!! Turn on the laser before installing the driver!!
Looks like you've had good results. My experience has mostly been the opposite. I have owned the X-Plus 3 for over six months (having previously owned the X-Plus for several years). From my experience, the X-Plus was a MUCH BETTER printer than the X-Plus 3. Attempts to make even simple parts (with QIDI Tech supplied PLA) have resulted in half the parts being absolute fails. One part will be okay and the next part (a duplicate) will be garbage. At this point, I wish I had kept my older X-Plus (given away as a gift). My X-Plus printed perfect parts from both PLA and ABS. I haven't bothered to risk ABS on this thing. The X-Plus 3 does print faster, but for me it just makes crappy parts at faster speeds. Multiple emails to QIDI Tech tech support. They do reply quickly, but the results are the same - garbage parts. All in all, this machine has been nothing but frustration for me. IMO, it is a beta product that should have never been released for sale.
Hi. Interesting, i havent had a single failed print with this, its actually my most reliable printer. Did you update the firmware ? It could also be a hardware issue.
Hi - I have a Ender 3 with the 4.2.2 board. I installed a CR touch and followed the instructions to use the firmware provided by Creality. Now I have the "No TF Card" issue and a screen issue on the printer. I'll look to compile this as I'm not quite sure where to go from here but do I compile the software with the options for a BLTOUCH even though I have a CR Touch?
Hi I have had a 3d printer for a while now and had originally used marlin for my firmware when i added my BL touch. however I have now added a sprite pro and I'm really struggling to find all the settings I need to put the new marlin 2.1 and and add back in the BLtouch, sprite pro to a ender 3 pro. any ideas?
Hi. There arent any settings that need to be changed in the firmware for the extruder. You will want to adjust retraction settings, e-step, etc on the printer/slicer once you flash the firmware.
