Excellent informational video and good info to know. Did your manual state at what temperature the engine would start shutting down or was the the 210 degrees you mentioned?
Excellent video and very useful to know. Thank you for this effort. Did your manual tell you the temperature at which the engine would start shutting down or was that the 210 degrees you mentioned?
I'm not sure how people are cleaning the backside of the radiator without taking it all the way out. Before I pulled the radiator and fan assembly out I took the four screws that the fan connects to the radiator off and I was able to get a garden hose back there but just barely and obviously that didn't work either.
Industrial filters that suck e.g. fine sawdust into cloth sacks have a pulse settting where the flow is reversed in pulses to knock the dust build-up off. Would it be possible to SUCK the air through the radiator and then reverse the fan? I guess not, but what about having a small air compressor to use when stationary that can release a dispersed shockwave? I dunno, I'm talking out of my ass.
Hey brother check the 30 amp circuit breaker in your fuse box. I carry a spare with me they're known for going bad and the fan won't work. Or it'll kick on and off too quickly!
Thanks for the info!! As of right now after cleaning the radiator multiple times, the fan does turn on at the correct temperature (190) Gilomen tune. But the temperature still rises to overheating. I have not lost any coolant, so I'm leaning towards a bad radiator??....
@@bradstanke442 I think that's what broke...I never pulled anyone out that way, but I have plowed with it for 4 winters....maybe it got weaker over time???
I’m not a Polaris guy, is the secondary clutch supposed to slide in and out like the old one did? Every other secondary I have dealt with has a spring holding them together
I have not ....!!...if u watch my videos I'm on my second motor though for reasons I believe is I bought a lemon as no swamping and maintenance my machine more than my buddies....
Pilot It won’t stay in that one it has a sensor that if it moves will turn off for safety BUT the other one golf cart one pilot will stay just fine . I have both Mr heat the one you have and I got another one for a golf cart last week way better stays on unless falls down
I received this one used. Did some research and took it apart to find the tip switch already bypassed. So it will stay lit laying on its side. I believe it was the way the air flow in the cab was making the pilot go out.
Turn-by-turn works, but you have to set a destination so it knows where you’re going! In your video you’re just watching the map as you drive aimlessly. You can either search/find a named destination (gas station, restaurant, etc) or just find a point on the map to pin and set as destination, from there the route will be calculated and turn-by-turn engaged!
@@ownshotgunner Dozens of articles stating that to much grease will cause bearings to overheat and cause premature failure. Take a second and google the subject .
I have the Garmin Smart Drive 65 with VVMapping and we have rode over 3000 miles with it around MIchigan and West Virginia. It's been covered in so much dust and a little mud, I keep on cleaning it off and it keeps on working.
Just to let you know you don't have to remove brake caliper assembly to use the grease fitting for Polaris UTV's. Not trying to argue just trying to be of help.
Thanks for the information, maybe next time I can take the hub/rotor off with the brake caliper attached? Rotor has to come off though, for the grease tool to fit inside the hub.
Sucks man, glad you got it back..I think you made a good choice out of the ones you had. I live in SE WI and got my 22XP4 in May of 22 and have about 3000mi on it. I keep a tender on it and the thing barely turns over before it starts in the cold, even a couple weeks ago in 15 degree weather. I also have it outside under my deck because I got no room i the garage. Usually it is valves that causes hard start (couple buddies 570 ATVs had to have valves cups done) but I think watching the filter is key. I run prefilters on both the main filter and the snorkles under the hood and I swap them out/clean them after a weekend up north. Funny story is my 17 sportsman 570 has 5000mi on it and never had valve issues where my buddies have with low miles...(1100 and 1900mi)....but I swap my pre filter every day on the wheeler (in which they gave me shit for) when im riding that in dust. (I have three and just wash them with dish soap) Anyways I"m off topic....glad she's running again. I love my 22 XP4 and have a few trips planned this year. Like riding Oconto and Marinette county. Also, Terry is awesome I'll probs do some Gilomen stuff in the future here. (a few buddies have with their rangers and Generals and LOVE it.
That sucks that the engine got weak. Any idea where the loss of compression was from? I know about 12 guys with either ranger 1k or generals and with 4K+ miles. They all take it easy and are pretty slow. 2 of those guys have had new engines one I know was low compression also to the point his wouldn’t start at all. What all of those machines had issues with is clutches they blow clutches before belts
Not sure what the low compression issue was. The dealer thought I swamped the machine, but I have never done that. I will never know. Thanks for the feedback and info!
Great video, thanks for sharing. Now that you have had this for about 10 months how is it holding up? I live in Arizona so the fan coming on sooner and keeping the engine cooler is important to me. As you mentioned, the machine is very jerky in forward and reverse, and I was wondering if it was only my machine or is this through the model? I have a '22 General XP4 1000 Trailhead with very low miles, less than 100 but I can already see that I may benefit from a tune.
So far everything is holding up very well. one of the main reasons I did by the Gilman tune compared to the aftermarket assassins is because I was just fixing a clutch issue and belt slap. I'm not looking to add any more performance to the general if I wanted more performance and keep adding on and adding on I'd go with aftermarket assassins but the simple tune and clutch kit is a huge difference. I'm not going to lie it is still a little jerky from dead start to go in forward and in reverse but when you're at full speed and you let off the gas it's as smooth as a car no jerkiness or belt slap at all. Hope this helps.
Yes. The stock clutch set was junk. The clutch recall helped, but I have since installed the gilomen clutch and tune. All good and smooth acceleration and super smooth deceleration.
@@wiscorippin310 thank you for the quick response! I am looking at Gilomen as well. I will likely pull the trigger soon! Glad to hear its been smooth since switching over!
@@dougclemen7410 no problem...the best info I can give between gilomen and aftermarket assassin is that gilomen fixes the clutch issue and a little more speed depending on belt brand. I went with g boost I topped out at 84..but that made my secondary spin in park and neutral..I switched to stock belt..top speed is now 74..compared to 70 stock.. secondary does not spin in park or neutral..its..plug and play...no more messing around..AA.. I think is more for performance precise tuning.. that's why there are multiple stages of tune..just my 2 cents..
@@wiscorippin310 Great info, thanks! I have a brand new spare stock belt. When I do this, I plan to break that in and use it and keep my current belt as a backup. My machine only has 1700 miles on it.
To me its a all new machine, as if this tune should have been"stock" from Polaris. The engine sounds healthier not being restricted. The power is immediately noticable. Glad I bought it..just not on the winter time. Lol
