Uhh, you should sand the ply to remove any release agent they use in manufacturing. Oh and glue an eight inch of squeeze out is good. Excess epoxy adds weight to the build fast.
Матрица для изгиба полок нервюр мне понравилась. А вот технология обрезки книц на нервюрах не самая лучшая. Я предпочитал сразу вырезать кницы какие нужно по размеру. I liked the matrix for bending the rib shelves. But the technology of trimming the gussets on the ribs is not the best. I preferred to immediately cut out the gussets that needed to be sized.
Hey all, I know this is an old video, but if you're using as a reference, the ratio between hardener and resin is only 1:1 if measured by volume. If you're going by weight as in this video, you have to use a resin/hardener ratio of 100/83 per the T-88 spec. Hope that helps!
titebond III is just the ticket. Not affected by moisture, acids, gasoline. Wood joints always break at the wood instead of the glue joint. So easy to apply and easy cleanup.
TB3 is very strong but not good enough for aircrafts. Typical test for aeronautical grade, water resistance of glues and plywoods: samples are soaked for 10 days or boiled for eight hours. Aircraft glues must also withstand high temperatures, unlike Titebond assemblies that can be detached by heating.
@@6h471 Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is the first one-part, water cleanup wood glue ever offered that is proven waterproof. The waterproof formula passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance specification and offers superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature.
@@LosDaniellosB For anyone else seeing this (2020 or later), Bernard H. Pietenpol's grandson still sells the plans directly along with various supplements: www.pietenpolaircraftcompany.com/shop
I have been reading the comments and see several takes on this process. One thing I would like to bounce off you is what type of glue was used in original production. I'm sure it wasn't epoxy that had to be applied to not miss one millimeter of coverage. I have even seen someone calling for a glue that is "vibration" rated as if there is one. If you choose to go to the lengths that you do too satisfy your heart than so be it. Just a note if your gonna be anal about it you should not deform your gussets with staples as it breaks the fibers in the ply demonstrated by the raising and splitting of the fibers. A simple weight or block and clamps is more than sufficient. Very fastidious, thorough and quality work though. It is your plane and and as long as you are having fun you can rub it anyway you want as they say.
Is the form that you are clamping to for the top of the rib or the bottom? I noticed that there is another former in the background with a more severe radius on what would be the leading edge, what is that for? Also, if you are soaking 8 spruce strips I presume that 4 will be for the top and 4 for the bottom of the rib? If so, what former do you use if any? Apologies if these are dumb questions. Regards Paul
I built a fuselage onto a 20 foot long table. I made the frame from 2x4 's and the top from particle board. I was told not to trace the plans onto the table because the plans can shrink, so I just drew them onto the particle board.They said to be sure to put wax paper over the table before gluing the parts together. Particle board is hell for strong, but too heavy for airplanes.
Very informative. I am using an idea right from Kenny Crider's Piet's wing jig and I plan to also use circular disks instead of the square ones the plans call for. In this, I'll be omitting the staples (I just don't trust them). I know the plans call fo nails, but Bernard pulled them for the reasons you stated. Nice video! Thanks for posting!
Interest stuff that T88 epoxy. I think its a 100/100 mix by volume and a 100/83 by weight (resin/hardner.) I've never used it (T88) myself. I always make some test pieces in fiberglass or epoxy to eliminate weird stuff going on (expired date catalyst or whatever.) Thanks for posting this. Once when reworking my sailboat hull I mixed up a laminate panel with acetone (polyester) that didn't get hard. Interestingly it could be bent and shaped and later brushed with resin/++hardener to make it hard.
Ok, how are you going to get your wing ribs over your spars, when your spar box frame is already put together? Do you have to take the whole !@#$% wing apart if you break a rib, take all the wires and everything else off, and slide all the ribs off until you get to broke rib, and slide it on ?
All my wing ribs just fucking disintegrated, from transporting my uncovered wings on a bouncy trailer. At the moment, I hate wing ribs. Indestructible, my ass... ! About as snappable as chopsticks... a 2 year old could break these stupid things. It's going to take me forever to rebuild this wing now. There has got to be a better, faster way to build stronger wing ribs. www.eaa.org/en/eaa/aviation-communities-and-interests/homebuilt-aircraft-and-homebuilt-aircraft-kits/resources-for-while-youre-building/building-articles/wood/making-wood-wing-ribs Aren't you compromising the wood grain integrity by jamming staples in there? Why not use lead weights on top of them until they dry? Also, you don't show the gussets getting trimmed off... what do you use, a bandsaw? And where do the peanuts come into the build process? :-/
Great video, looking forward to getting started building my ribs. The T-88 mix ratio of 50/50 is by volume. The ratio by weight is 100:83. systemthree.com/products/t-88-structural-epoxy-adhesive
If you use TiteBond II for your wood gluing; all of it. there's nothing to mix; no wasted time; and the wood will break every time before the glue line breaks; as has been proved over and over again. In other words; this is a mis-guided attempt to build something to "Aircraft Specs.". Glue is glue; and wood is wood, and when the wood breaks before the glue does; there's not much left to talk about.
Exactly. You said in way more words my point I was making. Anecdotal strength tests are nothing you want trust your life with. Heat and cold cycles, fuel and oil exposure, exposure to light and UV, and vibration... all things to consider above and beyond how "strong" a glue is.
