Hi Rick, thanks for these videos. You explain everything in detail and even I can understand most of it. I have the same tractor. It’s a 2004, I believe, and runs pretty well. It springs some leaks once in a while and makes noises that weren’t there before. I keep it clean and greased and check the oil before starting up. The one in your video looks brand new and must be kept under cover. I’m 80 years old and try to learn from these videos as mush as I can. I appreciate how much people know about machinery and how to fix things. Wish I knew more but I learn so much from RU-vidrs putting yourselves out there to teach us and help us learn. My generation had Shop for the boys and Home Economics for the girls. I hated it and would much rather been with the guys learning neat stuff. I love your kitty. He’s a real ham and is so cute and is crazy about you. Such good company.
Thank you!!!!!!! 100% helpful. I’m doing lash on my original family owned 4440 with 30000 hrs. Never been done. Had 2 head bolts snap so what a better time to do valve clearance 🤦♂️😂😂
It's held on by 3 bolts on the drive shaft and 3 on the fly wheel and then the isolator just pops off. And the drive shaft just slid out from the back. So in theory the drive shaft will come out with the engine but it would be a pain to reassemble with out two people, one to guide the drive shaft and one to put the engine in place. at least that's the way I remember it I hope this helps.
Chances are the yanmar will Outlast anything Onan. I have a diesel that's been overheated many times and it's still holds all the fluid where it belongs.
سلام خودم ایران هستم یک تراکتور ۳۲۳۰ ویک تراکتور ۲۰۴۰ داشتیم عالی عالی بودن انها را روی تایر میبوسم والان یک تراکتور ۲۰۴۰ تایر باریک روش زدم فقط برای کودپاشی وسم پاشی استفاده میکنم
Rick raise the gauge wheels up and unpin the gauge wheels and rotate the wheels and roll it out from under the tractor. I have aGT245 that comes out that way.😊
Kudos to you for gettin' 'er done! I have a similar deck for my 318 that I have been patching year to year to keep it going. The front has gotten so thin that the mule drive brackets were barely hanging on. I finally took the dive, made a hammer form and made a new panel out of 12 gauge, about 36 inches wide and around 12 deep before trimming to fit. The new panel goes from the bottom lip around the top and ends where the top covers sit. I'm not a great welder but I can lay a decent bead on solid metal once in a while. I get by on booger welds or grind them down and do them over if cosmetics matter. It took a lot of time and effort since I pulled the deck completely apart and replaced the spindle bearings and a bunch of fasteners. Everything got stripped, repaired and repainted. The deck looks new and is rock solid. The mule drive brackets and one of the anti-scalp wheel brackets are now welded on new metal. I am sure I'll get another 20 years out of it with regular maintenance. These 300 series decks are getting harder and harder to find used and many are in rough shape. Even so, they are commanding a high price. My 318 is a great machine and I want to keep it and my implements going until I take my dirt nap.
First you need to time the pump. So if you remove that hex plug next to the oil fill cap. You will see a little tab with a mark across it. And next to that a small wheel that also has a mark across it, If you don't see a mark on the wheel just bar the engine over by hand till the two marks line up. when the two marks are lined up with each other your pump is now in time, 1 cylinder is at TDC compression stroke. that's the most important step. then remove the cover on the front of the block, unbolt the three bolts on the gear tooth alinement don't matter, then remove the injection lines and the three nuts that hold the pump on and your pump is removed.
Yeah my cat likes to help LOL. It only took about an hour to remove the engine, it could have gone quicker if I would of known I had to take the dash off to remove the drive shaft.
I would first check for leaks, their is a small hard line under the hydraulic pump that sometimes comes loose. If you're leak free you might need to have your steering box rebuilt.
Yeah it will, Are you going to use the 466 out of that 4440 for your repower engine? A tractor engine is easer to swap fore the fact that you already have the oil pan and water neck.
Did you mention checking that the engine is on TDC COMPRESSION stroke for #1 cylinder. Unless you check the valves on #1 are both closed, you’re taking a 50:50 chance it won’t run😊
You're right. I did not mention that, I probably should have. Best practice is to time the fuel pump before you remove it, unless your pump is broken in half like on my 4020. Thanks for watching!
Ya know. I just got done mounting those fenders and was thinking, A couple cans of JD green would make this tractor look pretty good. LOL we must think a lot a like.
Hi i m in the midst of putting a 466 in my 65 4020 powershift gas a fellar is learning lots i put a 4230 oil pan on this motor just keep on keepin on the job will get done
Nice job on the custom 15/16 bend. I think JDE92 is the deere injector tool. $85 on the ebay. It's got a fancy inside sleeve to hold the return line port square in place while tightening the injector down.
Hi Rick Sorry you’ve had negative response. Things are going to go wrong, amazing that people don’t get it. I was talking to Just John today, gearing up for my project. I really appreciate you showing the good with the bad! I’m sticking with you Thanks
Thanks, Knowing that you talked to John, you got this. It takes a little patience, but after you get one done you may find its a new hobby lol. And Thanks for the support!
I think so, But that oil pan had a lot of sludge in the bottom of it. I hope it just choked off the oil filter. I mean that oil and filter could of been from the 90's, It was bad, real bad.
It could be possible, The problem would be to find them. The frame rails might be something that's still available at Deere if not obsolete, But they only made 21,400 of the 4320's and less than 8000 of the 4520's the hoods from those tractors would be hard to find. Deere did make a longer set of frame rails for the repower option they had, But when I called to ask about them they told me obsolete.
Looks like they do have some used frame rails but no hood. I have heard of guys modifying the original hood after stretching the frame, I just don't know exactly how they do it.
