I just got the vms shifter but i did not get any washers. There is a lot of space between the shifter and the rod going to transmission. Does anyone know if i can just put any kind of washer to eliminate that free play? It took me 2 weeks to get the shifter and it arrived with no washers. Someone who might have encountered this let me know please.
Nice video, just one thing if yo can answer perhaps. My clutch engagement point has been higher up in the pedal instead of before ( around 50-70% pedal lenght ) now it takes almost at the end of the pedal travel of the clutch. i did bled it and no air coming for like a whole bottle. no leaks or anything everything is dry
How old is the clutch? At that point I'd be wondering how much life is left in it. If it needs to be almost fully engaged to create enough friction, it probably needs replacing soon
Are we able to just get connectors to attach shorter new lines between the proportioning valve and the lines that were attached to the abs module that already go to the brakes at the 4 corners instead of replacing the entire lines?
Sure, you could do that with the correct fittings. The lines are pretty inexpensive, and if your old ones aren't in great shape, it's a good time to do them.
Thanks for making this video fellow Canadian. Your partner did a great job filming and you are entertaining as you work. Lucky the torch issue didn’t become a big problem. I didn’t see them, but hopefully you placed some jack stands for safety’s sake. Good tip regarding the needle nose pliers and turning the piston to get the calliper back in. I haven’t done the brakes on one of these before and it was great to see what I am in for when doing my daughter’s 2012 Beetle this week. What size socket did you say was supposed to be used on the rear caliper bracket? I gather that it was a problem for you on the driver’s side. Thanks again for taking us along on your journey!
Thanks for the kind comments! For the rear caliper you need a set of european style xzn triple square spline sockets. Theres one on amazon by lexivon for 30$ that should have all the sizes you'd ever need. Its basically a torx bit but with more splines. I believe I used a T60 or 55 in the video? I was just able to get away with it but it was definitely slipping on the bolt and if its very stuck in there you'd probably ruin it without the correct socket. Only the rear though. The fronts are standard style bolts. Classic VW
Lines are pretty easy. Replacing the clutch is what sucks 😅 make sure the lines are properly fitted on each end. I had the peddle go to the floor before cause air was getting in where it attaches at the master. Had to just undo it and reattach, maybe add some sealant
Hey Im having a problem and i cant find help on google pls reply to me. I bled my clutch and now the pedal wont go all the way up, it goes up a little bit have a little of resistance and then nothing. Ive been bleeding the clutch for 2 days and have already used up 2 bottles of dot 3 what am i doing wrong am i missing something? Also there is no more bubbles coming out and there is no leaks either. The clutch was working fine before i bleed it.
What car do you have? You can reuse the fluid you pump out too if you need to keep testing. When you say wont go up do you mean it wont push in towards the firewall or it wont return back out to the normal resting position?
@@LupienLife I have a 2015 Civic. And I actually figured out what was wrong with it, when I was bleeding it my helper accidentally stepped on the pedal too hard and fast and that ended up pushing the pushrod on the slave cylinder back while the bleeder valve was unscrew. So I just unscrew the bleeder and push the pushrod back in then give a few pump to get rid of the air in the boot that cover the pushrod, and the clutch stiffened up and got back to normal.
Thanks, this was very helpful. I didn’t even have to use a hose - I found an empty water bottled nestled into the spot just right, covering the nipple completely and catching all the fluid. Real easy. Thanks again.
What about the rear brake lines? Do those fit up to the new proportioning valve? My abs pump is siezed and leaking so im just deleting it. If so how long should i get for those rears
Its been a minute but the rear brake lines are the same for both. The lines go from the back right to the valve. Shouldn't need to change them unless theyre rusted out.
Nice build. I assume the way that catch can is set up makes it to where the pressure vents to atmosphere? How hard is it to drain and how often are your having to drain?
Yes it vents through the filter on top. Draining it depends on where you mount it. I had enough room to place a cup underneath and open the drain. I sold the car before I ever had to drain it. Didn't drive it much
the hose goes to the bottom of the bottle that way when he pumps air out of the hose it goes to the top and out of the fluid and when he stops pumping air doesn't pull back in only fluid does bc the bottom of the bottle doesnt have air.
I have a 2012 beetle turbo too.. mine is a fbo stage 2+ ko4 Came across your video because i'm changing my brakes and rotors... I got some drilled and slotted rotors with brembo brake pad ( just pads) I almost found out the hard way that the stock brakes are no good at this power level...
Hi Lupien, Des for South Africa Thank you for your video, it worked just as easy as you discribed. You saved me hundreds if rands in machanic costs and my 6 year old boy pumled the clutch, lol. It was a great experience for him and taught him we can always try fix things before we just pay soneone else. Keep the vids comming. Appreciate it.
Idk how true it is but I heard when u leave the pedal down and then close the valve like u said it creates a vacuum in the line when u bring it back up.
I think it holds about one half liter bottle so I'd just get a liter to be safe and have extra for bleeding the system because the blender bottle needs some at all times
I just got a Phoenix V-5 reverse bleeder. You crack open the bleeder screw and pump new fluid in reverse up to the master. This is supposed to get more air out because it works with the direction the air bubbles want to move…upwards.
I got one of those. I can’t seem to get it to work correctly. Apparently there’s some kind of grease that’s supposed to go on it to keep air bubbles out. Mine didn’t come with any though.
I replaced my slave and master, I have a hand pump vacuum pump and when I press the petal to the floor it doesn’t really pull from the reservoir but when I pull vacuum with the petal all the way decompressed I can see it lowering the reservoir level. Is this normal? It seems like I can’t get the last bit of slack out of the top of the clutch petal either way
Is it also possible to just close the proportioning valve, like the opening where the abs break lines goes in? Ore is this no option? Im thingking of delet the abs too Greetings from switzerland
Hello, I have Honda civic EK with B18C4 swap, but it is 1995 and in this year were civics without ABS. One question, what is better for touges and racing? With or without ABS and why?
@@matejbeinhauer3526 i guess that’s depending on you, without abs you need a little more skills to drife through corners, i hope its right what i tell you, im not realy a racing knower i build my car for show
I have a question. B18b1, with 195k miles. I had the cylinder head rebuilt. Now I have quite a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. Did a compression test and it came out 90, 90, 80 & 90. So I’m sure I need new rings. My question is, do I hone the cylinder walls with a cylinder hone and then replace the rings and put everything back together? Do I have to replace the pistons or bearings? I do not have the means to take a whole engine out and have the crank turned and everything.
bro you are never supposed to put dot 3 in your clutch master idk if it worked but that usually destroys honda transmissions people recommend buying honda specific clutch fluid from a honda dealership it isnt a scam its your hondas transmission fluid. not like your brakes. the pressure might be but not the clutch and your master had the same problem my fluid was dark like dirt if it wasnt for an old timer telling me how it affects i would have to buy a new tranny cause it messes up other things in your gearing
I think you may be confusing transmission fluid and clutch fluid? The only fluid I know that needs to be specific is the dual pump fluid in crv rear ends but transmission I have a video on replacing that fluid and the clutch is a simple hydraulic system like the brakes, won't hurt anything if it isn't oem honda. Its not under waranty and not going on a race track lol
To hold extra liquid so you don't get air bubbles in the system. When you pump new fluid into the system it pushes the old out into the bottle and holds it so it doesn't suck air when you release the pedal ✌
@@LupienLife So just keep doing that until clear fluid comes out? Is this a routine maintenance thing ? Or just if you replace clutch parts? Thank you 🙏🏽
@@BEARDED_VATO yes, pump it out till the color matches the new liquid and the air bubbles are gone. The fluid is supposed to be replaced at certain intervals but it's like 50xxx kms, you probably won't have to do it again.
Your video is awesome. I knew this already but took the time to watch it, so when someone else argues that it's not possible, well they can watch this video.
