This fishing channel features primarily south Florida fishing. Come along and enjoy one of the many fishing trips I've documented.
In 2014, I once again became a boat owner after a 15 year absence. I bought a simple kayak to test the waters then later in 2014 purchased a Key West 1720. In 2019, I added a Pro Angler 12. I've cleaned up some of my old gear, bought new gear and have actively begun seeking fishing areas and learning techniques that are effective here in Southeast Florida. I'll document what I'm catching and hopefully provide enough interest to keep you entertained. On occasion, you'll find me posting video from other areas where I may wet a line, as well as a few self help videos on projects I've completed on the KW.
I do ask that if you leave a comment, please keep the language clean for all ages.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I don't have much luck with YT's notifications either. I haven't been back on the water since that video. Both the air and water temps are too hot. If you can't enjoy yourself out there, wait until you can. I'll get back out on the water as the temps cool down.
Thanks for watching and for commenting. I have no idea why a repair shop would make that statement. If the job is done correctly, the seals will last a long time. I'm over four years now and no weeping.
18 min is a long video to just drill 6 holes and fill with 6 bolts. Suggest anyone doing this project to wear a mask anytime you drill into fiberglass hulls….. very dangerous to your lungs with those particles floating around in the air! Be safe
Thanks for watching and for your comment. There is a lot of measuring going on to make sure everything will work when in place. Measure, measure, measure, then drill. While the installation was outside, wearing a mask is a good recommendation.
@JimMFishing thank you. I was able to figure it out for mine. I had a spring and ball bearing inside of the pickup head. FYI I found a basin wrench to be a great tool for getting the pickup out of the tank.
Frank, thanks for hanging with the channel during my absence. We did have a great time out there, just wish the fish were more cooperative. I remember checking the water temps at one location and could not believe how warm the water was. And this was in May!
Icy, it's been much too long as you know. Things are beginning to settle down some here at home, so we'll hopefully be back out there sooner rather than later. We're both needing that outlet! BTW, loved the "wig" comment! Good thing I wasn't working a cup of coffee!
Thanks Mark! It was a great feeling, both being back out there on the water and also having my son along with me. I hope to make the trips much more often starting in a couple months.
Jeff, as I stated it was SO GOOD to be back out on the water. It'll be another couple of months before I can get back out, but it's definitely going to happen!
I thought I had already replied but YT today does not show it. Congratulations on your 1720 purchase. You'll find it is a great boat for near shore and inshore fishing and water activities. As for the electrical diagram, I created it myself based on the factory wiring and modifications I've made. There is no factory wiring diagram available that I am aware of.
I am preparing to do this replacement on my outboard as soon as all the parts arrive. This video is very informative and made me aware of a couple of things that I did not think of. BTW, a moderate amount of dielectric grease on the o-ring will a) help keep the o-ring in place during assembly and, b) keep the o-ring pliable during the life cycle of the hydraulic motor.
@@JimMFishing the repair went well. Really appreciate you sharing the points that gave you consternation. That helped me avoid some potential problems. Did have one minor holdup during the install of new motor. The forward bolt fell between the cylinder and the jack plate and wedged. I had to make a quick run out to the hardware store and purchase a set of mechanical fingers to retrieve the bolt. After that, all went well.
I honestly would be guessing. If you can apply pressure behind the head to help the threads as you turn it, it may come out. I’d consider retapping the reservoir if you can extract the plug. Wishing you success, Jim
After dropping that difficult 3rd bolt behind the whole trim unit I had to remove those 2 bottom bolts to retrieve it. With the whole unit loose, it made it much easier to put that difficult bolt back in. The trim unit was easy to resecure. If I had to do it again I wouldn't hesitate to remove all 8 bolts giving me easier access to all 3 trim motor bolts.
Rob, thanks for commenting and for sharing your experience. I am hoping that future viewers will read thru the comments to gleam more useful information to apply to their particular situation.
Robert, sorry to hear of your injury. As you could see in the video, patience and persistence is what worked for me. Just be careful not to scratch the metal of the cap.
Seychelles, thank you very much for watching and commenting. That was the purpose of the video, and I am still helping people many years later. I suppose it should not be surprising that this video has had the most views of any video I have produced.
Thank you for watching and I appreciate your comment. I try to keep it as real as I can. I am obviously a backyard mechanic, not a trained or certified mechanic.
Thank you Ji,! I have to tackle this project myself. Do you or anyone else recommend doing tilt and trim both or just the tilt piston> The dust cap on my tilt piston is the only thing leaking and this is one of the things Yamaha does not have a complete kit for. Thinking of going with the 5Star Marine kit as it is complete. Or... can any say if its cheaper to buy all the o-rings individually? By the way... can I borrow your tools? They're the most expensive part of the job! LOL Great video!
Apologies for such a delay in commenting. I have no idea why your comment did not previously show. Hopefully you have already successfully completed this task. I had seepage from both so I replaced them. If you don't have seepage, there is no real reason to possibly create a problem. That said, the seals do age and while your hands are in there, you may as well do them all. No, I do not loan out my tools. I learned that lesson several decades ago.
@JimMFishing I was kidding about the tool part. LOL I did the job a few months back having followed your instruction from the video. I bought the tools and a 5 Star Marine kit and did all three. I really worked myself up about getting the caps off. Fortunately for me they had been done at some time in the past so they were not still at the "Factory tighter than hell torque settings" anymore. Really a rather simple job after you showed us the way. Thank you so much for giving all of your fellow DIYers confidence in doing something like this. Expensive ($225 with parts and special tools) but not as expensive as having it done in a boat shop.
@@mapquest681 Thanks for coming back and letting us know you successfully completed replacing all the caps. Yes, the cost of the tools is high. But as you stated, the investment allows you to save quite a bit over boat shop prices AND you're not waiting for potentially months without being able to use your boat. If those seals ever leak again, the next replacement will be much less expensive! Good Job!! ~Jim
Its been too long ago to say. They were purchased on line, most likely from Amazon or EBay. Search for 3" round transom light. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video! Quick question, what is the best way to replace the manual relief valve screw on that setup? Does the bracket need to be removed? Or can it be removed in place?
Will, thank you for watching, and for the compliment. I do not know the best way to replace the manual relief valve screw. It may require a full disassembly of the T/T unit. I am not a mechanic, just a DIYer so I really cannot answer your question.
Johnny, thank you for commenting, and for the compliment. Oh, the rain. Living in Miami, we deal with it almost daily from May to November. It’s a part of our life.
I have a 99 Yamaha 150hp fuel injected 2 stroke on my boat. The Yamaha Shop manual states to use ATF Dexron II hydraulic fluid. The local West Marine sold Chevron ATF so I bought a bottle of that to use. The Tilt/Trim is not working at all. The motor is down and I was able to remove the fill plug and oil came out. The T/T motor runs sounding the same as always. So, I'm a little perplexed at the cause. I plan to do a fill procedure anyway and hope that fixes it.
Sorry for the late response. I did not see the comment come thru on my phone. I honestly do not know what the difference would be between the two ATF fluids, although in transmissions the fluid will make a definite difference. I doubt the fluid is your issue, but not being a mechanic and being there in person, I really cannot say. Is the manual relief valve closed? If it is not closed, the hydraulic pressure cannot build within the cylinders to operate the rams.
@@JimMFishing My tilt/trim cylinders got new seals and they work fine now! I've owned the boat/motor since 2007 and this is probably the first time the seals have been replaced.
Hey great video and exactly what I’m attempting on my ‘04 smokercraft. Question for you… I have gotten the assembly loose and can lift the lifter tube up but it won’t come out of the tank. It seems it may have a filter on the bottom of the tube that’s larger than the tube. I’m afraid to just keep pulling. My first thought is to try to remove the tube from the ASV and reattach it to the new ASV. but that seems quite difficult. Another option being, just cut the tube and let it fall in and live in the gas tank and get a new one. Thoughts?
Jay, thanks for watching. Sorry for the late response. It is possible there is a filter on the end of the pickup tube but from all I've seen (not that many) there is no filter but a screen pushed up inside the pickup tube. If you pull hard enough and a filter, if present, breaks off, it should not pose any problems except for potentially jamming up a mechanical fuel sender? It certainly would not block the new pickup tube from pulling fuel. Cutting the tube would be similar. Please comment back with what you eventually do so that others may learn something from your situation. ~Jim
Thank you! I watched a few other videos and got confident to just start pulling and twisting. It did come out. There was a screen on it that was affixed to the outside of the tube with a band of some kind. When I installed the new one I went without any kind of filter or screen. I’ve got a screw on for my water separator that should be plenty of filtration
@@jayspencer270 Jay, I would have eliminated that exterior screen also. My original pickup tube had a screen on the inside. I removed it and shoved it up inside the replacement pickup tube. I also cut the end of the new tube such that it had an inverted "U" so to speak as did the original. The idea being if the tank top sags and forces the tube to the tank bottom, the tube could still get fuel. A flat cut tube might not be able to pull fuel in that scenario. ~Jim
From Italy?? Thank you for watching and commenting! The tools for removing the caps can be found at: marinetech.com/professional-marine-tools/trim-tilt-wrenches/yamaha.html. You can tell them that I sent you to their website! The tools for this specific Yamaha model are MT0004 (tilt cap) and MT0006 (trim caps). Use the supplied S-4 pins. This information, along with other parts information, can be found in the video's description section. ~Jim
Jim. For your original trolling plug replacement, how did you access the wire to add the 18 inches? Did you go through the port nav light? The original wire seems to have no slack or stuck in foam. Thanks in advance. Hope all is well.
Kyst, thanks for watching and commenting. Yes, I removed the port nav light and using a fashioned wire hook, pulled the TM wiring out that hole (maybe 1" in diameter). I used proper reducing crimps (6 to 8) and a borrowed electrician's crimper made for that size crimps, to add the extra wire. Thank you also for the well wishes. I'm personally doing well.
Looking at the 90 degree fitting which threads into the top of the fuel tank and accepts the anti siphon valve fitting: There is enough material on the upper area of that 90 fitting to fit a 12 point socket onto it using a ratchet or breaker bar. An open wrench looked tough to use in such a cramped area shown in the video. When breaking loose a real tight threaded fitting bring that fitting out one turn apply penetration fluid then back in a half turn. By repeating this action the fluid will make its way down into those tight threads.
Appreciate your video. Repair shop told me 3-6 week minimum wait on trim/tilt repair. Got frustrated and decided to tackle myself. Waiting on replacement motor to arrive. I agree, miss my Dad so much, we didn't see eye to eye at times but he was trying to show me things all along but as a teen, had my head up my a#@ most of the time. Wish me luck on my project (suzuki df115). Ned
Ned, thank you for your comment. I don't know how similar your Suzuki will be to a Yamaha. I do hope that the video gives you enough guidance to accomplish the job with both time and $$$ savings.
Jim, Mission accomplished! I received in the replacement trim motor, it took 45 minutes to install and is working like a champ. Thanks for the encouragement. Ned@@JimMFishing
