We love all things motorized! We enjoy building cars, mostly, but we also have fun with our Dodge Viper and vintage muscle. We are currently building a restomod C3 corvette using a 2002 Z06 Corvette for parts. We will be restoring and modifying a 1973 GMC Jimmy (K5 Blazer) as well. Of course, the 1976 Twin turbo Trans Am is still in the background, as well as a couple of motorcycles and maybe a boat. Subscribe and enjoy the crank addict lifestyle.
As a kid in the 60’s I learned about reversed shackles to raise the rear of a hot rod. It looked odd but was popular with shade tree mechanics. Looking back we do some silly stuff that made sense at the time.
So the coolant has cooled the back cylinders then goes through the heads back to the t-stat housing. Now you are taking some of that and routing it back to the same place. Explain how that alone will improve anything. The heater valve will make a difference. Restricting the t-stat bypass is risky especially when refilling the radiator and that orifice will plug easily. The Vortec 350 Chevy has the absolute best t-stat bypass system using the double seated t-stat that when closed opens the bypass (up position) but when open, (down position) closes it. Make one do that and I'll be impressed. With that removeable cross-over and a tig it can be done.. Then 100% of the coolant will be COOLED.
My TIG skills are not good on old aluminum. Opening the heater valve actually increases water flow to the rear cylinders on that side of the engine (if you don't do my mod). The idea with this mod is to get water to flow THROUGH the rear cylinders and return it to the t-stat. Without this mod the water doesn't circulate well through the rear cylinders. Imagine a large swimming pool where the pool pump and the drain are on the same side. The t-stat bypass is not needed AT ALL if you drill a couple of 1/8" holes in your t-stat. You don't want to send hot, bypassed water back into the engine.
The front driveshaft is good, but the rear really needs a CV joint. The rear ujoint is set up with pretty much zero angle. it was that way when I took it apart but not sure why.
I ordered a kit from classic industries and they come im the same corvex package wonder if they are diferent quality since the holley are more expensive
How did you cut the rod bolt off? I’m about to have to do this THATS why I asked. And is this the best way to inspect a seized engine? Thank you for this video!!
I used a large and small cutoff wheel on an angle grinder and rags to minimize metal getting into the engine. I would still thoroughly wash the block with soap and water when you're done.
Outstanding video...I am rebuilding a 78 Chevy Scottsdale 4x4 and have chosen to go to power windows. You gave me some great tips and ideas. I love your Jimmy! Thanks again. MK
When I ls swap my 84 k20 can I run a 2wd 4L80e and cut the rear shaft down cuz a 2wd has 2 speed sensors and the back speed sensor runs to the computer and I won’t need a 3rd speed sensor on my t-case with a 2wd like i would with a 4wd transmission and I’ll be able to run my mechanical speedometer correct there’s no tuners in my area do you know a tuning company I can talk to over the phone and tell them my gear ratio and tire size and they can tune my computer if I send it to them
yes, use the 2wd version. I sent my computer to lt1swap.com for a vats delete, but I think they can do tire sizes and gear ratios too. Or you can buy a handheld tuner for the donor truck and do it that way.
Would have been really helpful if you shown in the video how you put the carbs back together after separating them. The damn springs inbetween each throttle shaft is an absolute nightmare to try to do and now I wish I never took these damn things apart. For some reason no one in the country works on them either or carries any parts.
If I use a 2wd 4L80E and cut the tail housing shaft will I need to run a VSS on the t-case or will the 2wd 4L80E already have a VSS running to the computer and can I use my mechanical speedometer
The 2wd 4l80e has two speed sensors so none are needed on the t-case. Run your mech speedo off the tcase. When in low range, the computer will see a different speed than you see on your speedo but it doesn't matter.
The rear passenger water outlet has a T fitting. This fitting goes to the heater core and has an inline shutoff valve so I can turn off the heater when not needed (so its always shut off).
@@CrankAddict yes! pull the hub off and pull out the axle that ujoint is your problem. I bought one a few years ago with the same problem. turn and turn then all of the sudden it would turn really sharp and throw me into the other lane. I didnt believe those joints would do it either but when i took them out the 1 was seized in 1 direction which was causing the issue. after i changed them the truck drove like dream!
To adjust the steering box, you need the wheels off the ground and you need to turn the wheels from right to left. and then adjust. Beautiful truck by the way.
my 73 has a 4 inch lift with 35's after playing with the Jungle Jim of pitman arms and the slack steering box, i believe i am going to replace the steering wheel box with a 2wd and get a crossover kit from Offroad Designs and a Reid knuckle for the passenger side. i guess you can also replace the stock steering shaft with one from an old jeep grand Cherokee or something as well.
I read the cross over steering only helps with extreme articulations, which I likely won't be experiencing. I did measure my axles, and my front left wheel is a little further back than the passenger's wheel. Hmmmm.
Ya that's handling pretty sketchy . Think it might be a good start to grab a tape measure and verify wheelbase is equal on both sides . Wheels are all centered in the wheel wells and that all wheels are the same offset . ( I had one 7" wheels and three 8" width wheels and It drove me nuts troublrshooting and it steered horribly . Truck looks great 👍 all back together
I have a water leak located under the dash of my 1983 410 commander and cant find the shut off valve. Looks like it may be the water line to the windshield but cant figure out how to shut the water off to repair? Any advice?
I don't think mine has a water line to the windshield but the valve is most likely in the control panel box underneath, or possibly aft of the engines.
Dont have any of that on my 467 and stays cool just fine. I like what your doing there though. Another guy has a video up doing the same thing. Monty's garage or fast monty or somethin
Yeah, I talked to him about my ideas as I was making my video. His idea is simple and has some tuneability to it, but I think my idea is more efficient.
Wrong. A small amount of boost can cushion shock loads to the piston and rod assembly. A supercharger, however, puts more load on the crankshaft and may upset the harmonics. A turbo is more nice to the engine than a blower. Neither is as simple as NA and NA is still safer.
These engines will rev to 6200+ all day. They love it. The damage comes from oil starvation during high G cornering. The factory windage system is not sufficient.
@@That_ViperDude No, the gen 1s are lower revving engines. They are basically truck engines. I would shift at 5500rpm. You won't get much more performance out of a "stock" engine past that. I also have a gen 1 (with headers) so I know. Hot rodding a gen 1 is a tricky endeavor however. Even with head work and new cam I would shift at 6K due to heavy crank/rods/pistons (or swap in a gen 2)
@@CrankAddict my buddy Todd Abrams who owns A&P performance said for $15k he could do a bolt on supercharger with as much as 200 HP and 200 TQ. I wouldn't go that extreme but he's always been a straight shooter with me and he has a 3 month waiting list to get in.
@@That_ViperDude I knew a guy with a supercharged stock gen1 about 20 years ago. It was a beast of a car and about as fast as a Hennessey Viper back then. LOTS of torque. You'll be able to shift at 6K due to the boost but do so at your own risk.
Much thanks! After not being able to get my bike to fire my best diagnostic was the valves. After watching this a couple times I took my time and tackled the task myself. After some trial and error I got my valves in spec and it fired right up. Much easier task than I anticipated thanks again.
This is awesome. Been wondering if this was possible...i own an 89k1500 extended cab, dream of a newer trans...😆👍🤙💪 appreciate the walk through and tips brother. 35 .y.o me and the truck are the same age. Tryin to get her up to speed. She needs that TLC
What computer are you using? Original '95 computer? if so have you investigated possible wiring harness differences? I have not tried a swap like this yet, but I may try it soon with my daughter's jeep grand cherokee. You can also do a stand alone trans controller like i did.
Small Block Chevy and even early honda 4cyl is easy to install distributor 180Degrees off..Thats an 8 minute test. maybe try it if its backfiring or all out of sync. No doubt Big blocks have the same possible issue. Super common after an "expert" has done much work on an engine.
The problem is that many engines require the timing dots to both be "up" but many people time the engines with the dots towards each other. Voila! 180 degrees off. Always double check compression or look at rockers on #1 cylinder.
Pull the distributor .. rotate the distributor assembly half a turn and slide the distributor back into the engine. semi tighten it back up. try starting it . you may get lucky. .dont over think it.. but if you must.. it rotates once for every two engine rotations.
WOW. Cheers to you brother! I am not the only one... :D I did this all by myself when I was 26. Might do it one more time with my Dodge quad cab 4x4 (56 now in May). I used 4 custom built sawhorses. Two extra tall handyman hacks. Several ratchet straps. I ended up disconnecting ALMOST every bolt, wire and I DID remove and reinstall every piece of glass. AND, during the process converted it to California VIN and added in AC. I remember, being a woman, even Army, that that tailgate and the spring was super heavy and difficult. Can't remember why but it was heavy to do alone. Doing a Dodge 2nd gen Quad cab should be easier. I did it before, its smaller, however I am 30 years older now+ It took me two weeks and I had to do it alone in the California Desert 29 Palms. Dang it was a LOT of work.
what does your bulk head look like I am also swapping a 73 k5 and my bulk head is different than all of the ones I find diagrams for I have two tan wires that I can't figure out I'm also running a terminator xmax
Now you've had this trim installed for awhile already , are you still happy with the quality? I seen a couple post of guys that had used a 3m type of adhesive have problem with trim coming loose .
I removed the trim for the paint, but haven't cut and buffed it yet so I could not tell you. I can tell you that its not quite OEM quality, but should be fine for daily driver/weekend car show. The OEM stuff (or equivalent) is $$$$.
Thanks for the reply 👍 I've read mixed reviews on after market trim not adhering well with the peel and stick supplied adhesive . Really enjoyed your k5 build for inspiration. Thanks
Thank you very much for making this. I bought a roller 1985 K5, and someone had already cut the floor boards and rockers out, so I didn’t know how or in what order to reassemble. First time doing this big of job, so pretty intimidating. This definitely cleared a few things up. Appreciate it!
