Used this stuff..immediately started scrubbing with a scouring pad, moved to the next one. On wheel 4, gotta call before scrubbing, didn't want it to have weird imperfect streaking so I rinsed it off..figured I'd come back and redo that one. When I DID come back, I had a hard time telling which one I didn't scrub..this stuff worked that well.. Best stuff by far for aluminum wheels. Thanks for the vid.👍
Most acid based cleaners will do this just be careful not to get it on paint it won’t take the paint off but will make the clear coat milkey I used to clean semis on the weekends for extra cash and used acid wash on the wheels it’s amazing but will ruin clear coat and chrome in a matter of seconds also plastic will get brittle from it
Perfect, I have a single core that I need to have entry and exit on the same side for a rear mount radiator. I was relectant because I thought I'd have to weld that inner edge along the core.
This comment is to update a few items from the video and comments. 1. In the video, I mentioned that there was an assembly issue with the shutter valve. I contacted AR North America, who forwarded the issue to their engineering department. Engineering confirmed it was an assembly issue but no damage should have been done. They did go ahead and send me replacements of the shutter components just in case unexpected damage was done. The customer service at AR North America was great to deal with! 2. For the 40 degree nozzle, I found some debris that looked like red thread locker or sealant lodged in the orifice. Removing the debris fixed the spray pattern issue. 3. I drilled out the orifice, in the foam canons, to 1.5mm (5.0 orifice size). The foam spray is still good, and feels like it may even be better than with the 1.1mm version. With the larger orifice, I washed my truck, moving faster this time, and only used roughly 1/4 of the foam canon in Stars and Stripes. I got just as good of a wash as I did when using most of the bottle.
@@matthew1er I don’t recall, it was so long ago (maybe 15 years). If I remember correctly, I got the information from a post on either JeepForum or NAXJA.
@@theunkownmr.562 from what I have read, you can only buy the kit. Otherwise, you would have to buy the motor, pump, TSS, and other misc parts to build your own.
Brother, at close to 3 gpm you should use your 1.7 orifice on cannons. It will put excess pressure on the motor. On my Active 2.3, i use the 1.45 orifice.
@@mechaet33 Thanks for the input. The spray nozzles are supposed to be 5.5’s, so I will probably go with the 5.0-1.5mm, for the cannon, unless I find some 5.5’s.
Interesting and that did not trip your breaker? The foam cannon the kit came with (I have it also) has a 1.7mm and it made the worse foam you can imagine! I am using a 1.45mm from the active 2.3 on an MJJC and that works well
@@fookatan Tripping the breaker was a concern. I decided to go ahead and try the 1.1 since I had already set the cannons up for my old pressure washer, before it crapped out. I am probably going to try the 1.25’s out on my next wash. The cannon that came with the kit, still has the 1.7. That is what I am spraying the Snake Oil through. I wasn’t too worried about it since I don’t believe the SO is supposed to foam up a lot anyway.
Inspired by this video i was thinking of doing same exact .85 lift this Friday. Do you ever regret not going 1.75 front and 1 rear? Does the .85 lift make a difference in look in person?
Great video. I shared this with my wife. Planning on doing the same Bilstein level kit plus a spacer for the rear spring on her 2016 SR5 T4R. I would love it if she would help me install it as well. She said as long as I cook some steak filet like you did it’s a deal. Gonna have to sweet talk her into a Milwaukee 1/2 impact as part of the deal as well. 😂 Aloha 🤙🏽
@@moejr14 at the time this video was taken, I was running an Auburn ECTED up front. I seemed to always have issues out of that locker up front. I ran one in the rear also and never had issues. The front locker finally died on another trail, Outlaw, with a loud pop as all of the balls in the locking clutch sheared. The tires were 35’s.
Just did this on my 89 Xj, Dana 30 version without the vacuum disconnect. For me there was no need to grind the hub assembly to make the rotor fit as mentioned on the Cobra Marty post on Cherokee Forum. This may be because I also used the Motorcraft rotors or because there are some variations in the bearing as mentioned in another comment. Also no shim washers needed for me, the bracket was only off center by about 1.5mm without them. Plenty of clearance on my Pro Comp steel rims (15x8 with 3.75 backspacing). I did have to grind a tiny bit at the top corner of the caliper where there is slight interference with the knuckle but that was it. For rotors, if you go with Motorcraft as in this video the BRR236 is now superseded by the BRRC105. I thought I was sent the wrong rotors but later confirmed with a Ford dealer that the BRRC105 is the new version. They worked just fine and an added bonus is that these these are coated rotors. The assembly itself seems solid. As for how they work, I can't say yet, I'm running the stock booster and master cylinder and they were terrible before this. Still researching upgrade options for those. The DIY big brake was step 1 of 2. I'll come back here to update for anyone trying this.
Hi, I’m watching your video and see it is an about a year old now. I’m looking at this unit or the backpack version. I live in Arizona and it has been roughly 90-115 degrees out while I’m trying to work outside installing gate operators. Is this something that would be able to maintain a cool temperature? I’m not sure if your tests were factoring “wearing” the cool shirt or if this was just the temperature of the shirt itself? I’m looking at using one with one of their full suits. Pants/shirt/ head cover. Just not sure if it would be able to maintain. Maybe just your opinion of it after a year of use? Thanks!
@@psocket6333 I ended up switching to using a cooling pad, that is originally meant for cold therapy. For my application, I have the cooling pad hanging on the back of my seat. The water still circulates through the pad. The pad works much better than the vest. I am able to run at 70 degree water and feel much cooler than 55 degree water that was running through the vest. As for keeping up with the temperature demand, I have found that the biggest thing with these chillers is airflow. If you don’t have enough air blowing through them, they don’t work well.
@@HeBeGB501 Thanks for sharing your experiences! By cooling pad, do you mean something like the pad that comes with a Breg polar cube? How big is the pad? And you connect it to this same Compcooler unit? Did you need an adaptor to make the fluid connection work?
@@JohnBeckTheThird The pad is very similar to the one you mentioned. The specific pad that I am using is from Polar Active Ice. It is their large Universal Therapy Pad. The dimensions are stated as 12.5" x 22.5". I did have to purchase new fittings to be able to connect the pad to this chiller. If I recall correctly, the pad had smaller fittings than the chiller. I ordered the fittings from Fresh Water Systems.
@@HeBeGB501 Thanks for the info, very helpful! And it works well just leaning against this pad on the seat? Are you using this for cooling yourself in a side by side (aka UTV)? I'm trying to find a solution for motorcycling and also doing outdoor work in high temps.
@@JohnBeckTheThird Yea, I just have this hanging over the back of my seat. The pad came with velcro straps. I used the straps to wrap around the head rest portion of the seat, to hang the pad. I am using these in my buggy. It’s open air, like a utv would be. For motorcycles, I believe CompCooler had a seat cover that the water could flow through.
Excellent write up. I just finished this conversion on my '86 XJ. If anyone else is doing this note that as far as the XJ is concerned there are 3 wheel bearing options. The 1984-1989(?), the 1990(?)-1999, and 1999-2001 bearings. Since mine is a 1986 with a 1985 axle for the 4x4 conversion I have the phase one bearings. Due to the offset of those bearings I didn't need any washers or other shims to line up the calipers. So if you are doing this brake upgrade use the early bearings, and grab a 1996 XJ booster for any 1984-1995 for a dual diaphragm upgrade (or you can use a 1996 GM Astro hydro boost unit). 4.6L @ 9.2:1 and a 68-232-4 cam, AX15 + NP242, D30HP + F8.8 Trac loc @ 3.55 on 225/75R16.
@@justing6594 i haven’t had a chance to make an update video but here is what I have changed. I ended up switching to using a cooling pad, that is originally meant for cold therapy. I have the cooling pad hanging on the back of my seat. The water still circulates through the pad. The pad works much better than the vest. I am able to run at 70 degree water and feel much cooler than 55 degree water that was running through the vest. Using the cooling pad also makes it much easier to jump in and out of the buggy.
@@HeBeGB501 that's dope. I was thinking of using some frozen gel packs. Cutting a hole in two spots . Them make an s-curve all through the packs with line. Then run water through the line. I figure if the water can go through all the line at a slower pace it can cool it faster for longer. I dunno though.
Howdy, had you considered a refrigerated cooler versus the issues with the ice? There are some out there that operate on 12V or even batteries that might keep the water cool enough consistently without the melting ice issues.
@@strings1955 I have another video where I tested a chiller by the same company. It works really well. They also offer the battery operated back pack systems. I haven’t tried the backpack system though.
Thanks for the video. Was looking for a personal cooling solution for people working on a food truck. What with a hot grill, fryer and the exhaust venting system, Rooftop air conditioners can't compete. Just physics. I have been looking at vest-type systems for personal temperature maintenance, like evaporative vests, Ice inserts, and PCM inserts, and a circulatory system like what you tested. This looks like it answered my questions!.
This company totally ripped off Chillout Systems. Their products are very bad quality, do not cool fast and do not work in high temperature environments. They are also China based, not in USA and are not insured or have a UL or CETL certification. Sure, this system is 50% less than Chillout systems but you’re getting 50% less and no 3 year warranty like Chillout Systems.
I just checked out chillout systems the lowest priced chiller unit by itself is $2699 and the cooling shirt is $175 and the rapid released kit for shirt is $85 so the shirt hook up and Chiller unit not including the hoses and batteries is already Close to $3000 and if you want a battery to power your system a 35 AH battery is only $1,050.00
There are a couple of Sod places in Arkansas that sell it. A friend of mine picked up some last year and there was a 1-2 month wait. From what I am hearing this year, there is only a 1-2 week wait, right now, depending on weather.
I used a compressor filter/seperator bowl to install my beads through standard valve stems. I removed the filter element from the bore and placed the beads in the bowl then blew them in with compressed air. You have to remove the valve cores from the stem, of course.
Very good research. Thanks for all the effort. I am looking to buy it for motorcycle use. How hard are the tubes that run through the vest. Are they soft enough not to cause any serious injury to the ribs/spine in case of a crash?
The hard lines were bent with a heavy duty brake line bender. I will say that the bender almost wasn't heavy duty enough. I mounted the bender in a vise to be able to bend the tube. For the connections, I believe everything was 3/8" 37 degree flares. I just went to a local hydraulics shop and told them what fittings were on the line currently and they helped to get the right adapters to go from hardline to the flex lines.
I have a 1989 YJ jeep and everything I can see inline is that the early XJ and YJ have the same steering knuckles, is that true? and would this work with my YJ since I have the older axle?
Aluminum brightner will eventually turn aluminum a chalk white. You should always polish after using brightner, even if you just use polish on a rag. Bad stuff, it ruins semi truck tanks and wheels
