@TennantCompany thanks for the comment! Pretty neat having Tennant as a viewer! I'm unsure of the history, this machine was originally in this customers plant in Milton, ON. And is now at their plant in Fergus, ON. The head gasket and timing belt were replaced once forsure in the past and whoever did it, didn't do a good job. I am unsure of the year, but according to Google it's early 2000s. (I'd say 2005)
@JimmyDean404 the old Benz GCs are great if you can find one that hasn't been destroyed. The emission components are not problematic but still easily deleted and easily tuned. A proper tune with deletes and they make pretty big power (around 300 hp and 450 tq.) That will dust the Hemi versions. As far as the eco diesels go, stay far away. They are complete and total garbage.
@gtaashwagandhaman7551 I wish. I search regularly for J bodies. I've never found a decent rust free one for a reasonable price. I find the odd convertible but I hate convertibles.
Hoping to Unseize a H20 LPG engine, had a blown head and radiator and has been sitting since 2021. The crankbolt turned a entire revolution so doubt it'll be possible though. If so, a rod will definitely be going into orbit more than likely.
I just replaced the timing chain tensioner in my 2007 E320 Bluetec (W211) using your video, very helpful, thank you. To access the airbox, I just had to unscrew two torx screws (E10) and unscrew a hose clamp to remove the airbox. My tensioner fell apart just like yours when I removed it. I found it difficult to press the tensioner directly up into the engine, so I inserted a long flathead screwdriver in through the oil fill cap to lever the tensioner block (not sure what it's called, the thing the tensioner presses against) upward to relieve pressure that way. Once I did that, it was easy to screw the tensioner in.
Can you please explain in more detail how you pressed the tensioner block! I tried for 3h today to insert the new tensioner but I failed miserably! I could not see the tensioner block through the oil cap, I have a C350 OM642 2009.
Maybe someone will find this useful. In the C350 I did not had much space, so I ended up removing the front right side wheel and plastic thing around the wheel. Still was very difficult to screw in the tensioner so I have slowly rotated the engine counterclockwise, I would say around 1/3-1/2 rotation. The chain became a bit slack on the left sider of the engine and I could screw in the tensioner carefully first by hand and afterwards using a ratchet and finally tightening it up to 80Nm. Finally I have rotated the engine clockwise about the same amount I did counterclockwise. The engine took 3 attempts to start, but started in the end, had a rattling noise for about 10min, afterwards I reved it to 2000RPMs and the rattling was gone. Car is working fine now, I have not heard the rattling again at the cold start.
pulling that tentioner back with small 16 mm spanner is a lot easier. nice video. just wanted to ask how much it's supposed to move about under idle? not sure if i need to replace mine or not
Chlorinated brake cleaner containing tetrachloroethylene will, on exposure to high temperatures (above 500 °F (260 °C)) or strong UV light, decompose into phosgene and hydrogen chloride, both of which are extremely dangerous if inhaled.
Good video man straight to the damn point can't stand how all these people want to talk about their whole life story forever when you're simply looking for an instructional video. thank you
I bought a newly rebuilt L33 with 243 heads. I'd like to get heads port and polished. Would I need to get new fasteners even if the motor hasn't ran yet?
Awesome score on the Free ride on mower! i just bought the red fuel filters for my ride in mower on temu for cheap. Love the way that you brought it back to life. i just subscribed to your channel and hit the bell thing too. :)
That thing started almost normally after you got it free. The way it was knocking there for a bit made it sound like one of the old 6.5L Detroit engines GM used before the Duramax. Another boat anchor of a motor that sounds horribly broken, even when it's working properly. lol. Those old 4.3s are nearly bulletproof. They were always dogs and ran rough as a paintshaker, but they would pretty much always run.
good day sir - has your 95" upgrade remained reliable? I've got a 2006 Heritage with an 88" motor and feel it's lacking power on the highway especially on hills or passing - did you notice much difference? thanks in advance
I've been beating on it for a few years now. No difference in reliability. The starter isn't always the happiest (usually just when its hot, but always starts) as they say you're supposed to install compression reliefs. If you're fuel injected you will have to get a tune done. If you're carbd you'll have to re jet. When it's real hot out and sitting in traffic it spark knocks when taking off from a stop. As expected with high compression and air cooled.
If you could only figure out to show that you still have a Z24 then you wouldn't be so fat😂🤣🙏. Miss you man and the Z24 videos that thing was the coolest thing in your videos, The Red Zed
