thank you very much to have took time to make these two videos on secondary butterfly. Very informative it's helps me a lot to treat the problem on my gsxr 750 2005
Ya, this tank pack is not worth the price tag... everything seems good in theory but once you have the opportunity to try it out you'll find out quickly it's not what it claims to be and something I would never purchase again. That said , if you're in the market and willing to making your own tank pack that will last years and you can make or add your own attachments (with a little creativity), then take look at the video link below. Till this day i still make use my own tank pack/bags just as you see in the video. Video Link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nFV9wXODTss.html Amazon Product links found at my store: www.amazon.com/shop/thechemist/list/3KRCQP067EYOF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsflist_aipsfthechemist_BCLZA3OOB8EL7UTUSNBN
I challenge cgsulit to send me one to do a video on my 2014 dodge grand Caravan sxt 3.6l fir my new channel and see just how good it is on specific brand engine codes in both diagnosing them and clearing them! Theres only a couple uve geard if that can deal with TCM codes and VLP procedures.
100% the issue I was just having…clutch cable snapped last week, swapped it out this morning and went to start the bike, only to hear the most god awful sound…found your video, opened it up, and sure as shit… 🤦♂️ Thanks!
@@TheChemistDIY I looked up, “2001 gsxr 600 stator noise,” because I was pretty certain that’s the area it was coming from, and because I replaced the stator/actuator about 3 months ago
Why do people # the injectors? It doesn't matter where you put them they are all the same, you can take out #1 injector and put it in #4 and nothing will happen.😮
Very nice video thanks, I think I am naving the same issue on GIX750 k8. you were concerning about the position of the V shaped mechanism but I am concerned about the position of the gearing of the motor. I mean what if I accidentally rotate the gearing of the motor? does its position is relevant or not? so do I just have to pay attention to the position of the V shaped mechanism or even at the position of the motor gearing? thanks
The gear on the stepper motor does not matter..move it all you want.. it has one job and that's to move forward n backward in micro increments.. aka steps What keeps track of movement or positioning is the TPS and why it's important you place the V shape cog in the correct orientation upon assembly as this is connected directly to the TPS. See this video before you perform this DIY so you have a complete understanding and how to permanently fix this issue ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Hp7boEcUV9U.html
So way back when I made this video I did find a YT video where a guy had replaced the buttons with a full floating kit.. But a full floating kit is a track thing and also has more chatter and clanking then you have now. That said you probably wont find anything out there that wont produce a chatter sound... if you do, well come back and let us know..
When I ride my 2002 gsxr 750 every gear just over 8k would loose power not fully just maintain speed sorta but would sound like it’s farting instead of how it should sound
Sounds like the STVA... But usually this is accompanied with a FI light, although not always.. the bike goes into limp home mode to save itself from further damage.. 7k is usually the RPM range where it will limit you and basically keep you at 60-70 mph no matter how much throttle you give it.
Still having the same problems with hjc. I went to a store today to look at and try on the aphra 11, C70 and I70. As I wanted to buy one, I have made several visits to decide. When I realized the ratchet part was basically smooth on several of them allowing no fixed locking at the various levels. I looked at about 10 helmets and almost half had the loose visor problem. I told them at the store about my decision not to purchase because it shows poor quality control. I researched on Google when I arrived home, found this post and others. Some going back to 2010. So,14 yrs later and still happening ?
@@daryldaryl913 I don't think HJC cares to get rid of this problem, It requires trashing the current tooling and a complete update to the CAD Model in order to produce the correct parts. Why when you continue scamming unsuspecting customers until the next iteration...
This happens when one or all of three things happens. 1) Stator is going bad 2) RR going bad 3) One of the 3 phase is intermittent Hard wiring in the stator connections is the best way to resolve this issue. If after hard wiring the melting still occurs, then you know its time to replace the Stator or RR.. test both. Just an FYI a stator can test good but still give you problems like this, Happen to me not to long ago ..
Perfect video dude, goddamn means a lot. Loved your prev video and this will help. Imma just connect the usb cable with all connected and bike running, as dynojet said that works, easy peasy. This will befun
it would have been nice to have step to step reassembly of the stepper motor to be sure that the stepper motor position fits to the position of the butterfly. Some people made mistake and damaged the sensor while reassembly
Sorry to hear that brother.. I find this a bit Odd since I haven't seen anyone who's watched this 3 part series state anything about damaging their STPS in any of the comments.. So, Just a recap on the series: 1. Dealership Plug location & Mode 2. Removal/ Disassembly/Soldering & Proper reassembly of STVA 3. Permanent fix (solder in wires to the main contact points) You have to remember that these videos were made over the course of what, 7 year's, and after a few times of fixing and repairing finally arriving to this solution where I/you wouldn't have to do it EVER again. Part two is where you find the information you are describing (setting the cog gear in the STVA) which is posted in the cards that flash in the top right corner. Not sure how I could get anymore clearer then that bro. That video was super long. Maybe they just didn't see that video.
That I don't know brother, never worked on one. BUT if you're bike is water cooled then just following back the hose to the engine block and that's should bring you to the bell inlet. Remember some bikes/atv's maybe air cooled and you may not have.. so do your homework. Sorry I couldn't be much more help.
You did what?!?!... Brother you may have just ended your engines life... Your talking about two entirely different engine ratios.. depending on how long you ran with the 600 ECU the timing difference alone should have killed you valves.. But with that said I don't have enough information as to what your have done and why you put a 600 ECU in in the first place...
@@TheChemistDIY my bike is a gsr 600 but the engine broke down so i bought a 750 engine to replace it and it sparks fine just that alot of misfre and backfire
Such an amazing video!! What would be to recommend of + and - fuel to get stock fuel mileage? I got a z750 that uses too much fuel imo. I dont need it to be suuuuper fast tbf😂
Well to be honest, if your not seeing any advers readings from your spark plugs then your bike is running as it should. Remember, black plugs means to rich and white plugs means to lean.... the sweet spot is the brown eye..Ooops... ment Brown color.. tehe. I added my PCIII because the bike was running really rich and fouling my plugs.. I would get back from a ride and stink like exhaust, not to mention I could smell the extra fuel being spent during my ride. I added the PCIII and switched to copper plugs and that fixed everything... copper burns hotter. But if you feel you need to tweak, then you may just want to place all levels at the ZERO mark, This is DJ version of stock a stock setting.. But again, read your plugs.. that will tell you what direction you need to go.
@@TheChemistDIY 😂😂😂😂loved the brown eye part. Yeah going to my plugs is a lill hard on my bike, but previous plugs have been black soothy dry. I did however make Low to 0, medium to +1 and high was already at +1. So I will try the setting and see, and also asked dynojet to provide me with possible best tune on their website by giving them info about my bike if not😁 I just want it smoother and use stock fuel or a lill lower, and dont need more hp gain really😂 Thanks again for the video. I loved it and helped me a lot
The interesting point is which method you chose to get your ground connection to switch off with the ignition switch. Did you use a power distribution module or did you mount a relay and a fuse yourself?
Cheers for the video I've bin doing this for many a years now bye trade and sometimes things slip your mind but watching a video sparks that like dah should of remembered that sometimes some videos do my head in people trying to explain the obvious
Hey man, I have a 2005, GSXR 1000, and it won't start. Codes say c 32, 33, 34, 35. Opened it up. It has the commander unit in there. Checked the kick stand switch and everything, but nada. Any suggestions? Thanks man, Subscribed
Bypass the kickstand switch by inserting a wire into the green connector and jumpering.. tape down the wire and ride like that for a few days and see if the bike throws the same codes at any point.. if not then your kick stand switch is bad.. you can leave the wire in but just know that you will have no warning of the kickstand being down and could result in a accident. To have all 4 injector codes thrown at once means that there was power interrupt to your your fuel delivery. Aside from the fuel pump the only other real thing that cuts off the fuel is the kickstand and kill switch.. both are a safety feature. You may want to check there.
Hi there lad! Straight to the point, I am thinking of giving my bucks to alFairings for my K6 1000. I think at the momment mine has mix of Chinesium and oem at the momment, but I ve lost my right side over a bump going.. fast... and shattered. So, after a couple of years, what's the feedback you can give about their set? I was always wondering if aftermarket sets hardwn after a year or two of usage and cracked afterwards
I have to say my experience with this kit and it's manufacturer have been spot on. To date my kits have held up pretty damn well., the paint shines flawlessly with no peeling or cracking. Also, notice I said kits and not kit and thats because Ive made more then one purchase of a full fairing set, the prices are fair and I have faith in the quality of their product after my first purchase. But I just want it to be known that it hasn't been the case with everyone. There was one individual on here that reached out to me complaining how they messed up his order with improper paint scheme, misspellings in his "painted in" tape set.. so if you do go with them, always confirm your with picture proof that you are satisfied before shipment...
@@TheChemistDIY love the reply, thanks ! Mine is just plain classic black gloss/mate so I dont think its possible to be messed up 😅 Current Chinesium have chips missing from the air intake holes, sides of windshields cracked and chips of paint missing from the corners where tail sides touch the glossy part. All I m afraid is of there will be the same issue. I ve found sets sold for 350 but I'm willing to give even 1.000 if a brand doesn't have fitment and paint issues like the one I use atm
Well that's not very descriptive if you're looking for a solution bro.. the same can be said about dropping a bike on the freeway busting 80.. lol. At any rate, if your talking about knocking the bike over at stand still park or at a red light tip over then likely this Video should fix your issue.. chances are that top triple clamp is binding do to the bar end contact with the floor and just needs to be realigned.
Can it? Yes.. but really anything can be said to do the same about any component on the bike. You have to look at things in the broader sense: A popular explanation of how a four stroke engine works is: Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. The engine sucks in a mixture of fuel and air, then squeezes it together (compresses it), then it burns / explodes that with a bang, and finally it blows out the exhaust. So what part does the TPS do.. well it's part of the SUCK because without the correct air intake the bike is not going to start. The TPS(s) controls your butterflies which allows the correct amount air to come in during start and ride. All this is being controlled by your ECU "Mapping" which is basically like a receiver.. collecting data from its sensors (sensors), comparing it to a list (map), and then sending out what you need to keep the bike alive. During the SUCK you also have to have the correct amount of fuel. Without fuel you won't get to BANG.. SPEAKIN OF BANG! .. what lights your fire 🔥.. yup... That's right, Spark! Without a healthy flame You're basically trying to light a firework in the wind with a wet match stick.. not going to happen.. Probably not the answer you want to hear but when you put all those principles together You get an idea of what you need to check in order to get your bike to turn over and run.
I have the CDE900 Pro version. I didn't want a cheap one that only gives codes. After watching a bunch of videos, I decided on this one. But instead of buying that 4 function package, I bought the full function package for our specific venicle. It's pretty cool. Every 2-4 weeks, I turn it on and let it do updates. It updated my specific car package today. I'm not sure, but it may have also opened up a couple of others in the Honda type.
Any type of wire that's used for say breadboarding circuit boards...22 gauge and above I think should cover it.. Don't quote me on that but kind of use that as a reference point
So what should i do with the other cable from the switch? You are just connect the ground cable to the ground? and the power cable? hmmm dont understand
There is no 12 volt power cable.. this is all ground. connect a wired to any ground location.. the whole bike and all its bolts are ground.. you can even get ground from the negative side of battery if you want if you feel more comfortable. this ground wire connects to the top leg of the switch as shown in the video (Non- Gold Side if your using same switch) The center leg of the switch connects to your T-tap at the fan. All your doing is providing ground to the fan.. it already has 12v from elsewhere.
@@TheChemistDIY Yeah my fan dosent work right now, but if i Connect it straight to the 12v battery it works, somebody had a switch on it before and the manual switch not working, and the fan does go on by it self either, so i try to fix it but i cant find why its not working 🤔🤔🤔 but i have a gsxr 750 2001 .. its the same with ground on both? Like in your video?
If your asking if the TPS and the STPS are the same... Yes they are. You could techanlly swap them and it work just the same after setting the correct placemement.
@@TheChemistDIY sweet yeah cause I just bought the one that's on the top still fi and the red light is on I positioned the one on the bottom to where I got the line in the middle everything is still on so I'm thinking that ones bad I did have this weird noise when turning the key on coming out of the one I replaced but that noise is gone sounds better but wasn't sure if I could buy the same sensor I just bought and use it for the one below
@@mackenzieharmon826 it shouldn't be possible to have a FI light on and code that reads nothing wrong (-C00).. try pulling the battery off for a few minutes and reconnecting... yes I know the ECU doesn't hold power when the key is off.. but then again you shouldn't have a FI light on with code of 00.. lol.
Removing the fly's doesn't fix the C28 code in this instance, thus leaving the bike in limp mode. Now if the C28 code wasn't present and you just wanted to remove the fly's for more top end and laggy low end.. then yes, that would work.. in that case you might as well just remove the STVA all together and purchase the STVA eliminator.
Hey thanks for this, of course I realized the lights turn off on most when they start but on most other types of stuff I work on thats a relay. So it gives me a really good direction to check on a customers bike
Other two troubleshooting things you may want to look at is the clutch switch and side stand switch if the bike is not cranking. Both can be bypassed with a wire into the connectors to diagnose.
Im just thinking this is HJC common problem with all helmets, how do they get away with it? How do you guys spent "500$" for a premium helmet that cant do the most basic thing from factory? So many versions or generations with the same problem how is that possible? Why dont they change the visor system?
I hope you can help me here: I recently bought an 08 zx10 and started doing a bunch of mods: added an integrated tail light, changed the bulbs to LEDs etc. Long story short, while riding around town I stalled the bike and did not want to turn back on. Called a mechanic and told me it was my battery so I went ahead and bought a new one. Yesterday it did not want to start up 2 days after having that new battery installed. Am I looking at the same issue here?
0:05 If the battery dies after riding and it was fully charge then You're running off battery power and the two other components of the charging system has failed. That would be your RR and Stator. Most of the time the RR is the culprit. I would perform a diod check on the RR.. and this test on your stator. I would also visually inspect your Stator for burnt discoloration on the coils.. usually a good sign it's time for a new one. One quick and dirty way to see if youret running off batt power is to start the bike and disconnect the battery.. if the bike shuts off then you know youre running off batt power and one OR BOTH components of the charging system isn't working.
@@TheChemistDIY An update as of right now. There was a recall on 08-10 ZX10R. So I called my dealership and indeed the recall is still open for a Voltage Regulator (whatever that means). So it has been ordered and they’ll let me know when it gets here so that they can fix it and go from there. In your book, does this sound right? Voltage Regulator does that translates to the stator or the RR?
@@klachi7 So RR is short for Regulator Rectifier or Voltage Rectifier. How your charging system works is like this... The Stator is like your altinator if it were in a car.. Through a spinning hub and magnetism, it creates AC voltage. That AC Voltage needs to be coverted into DC to run the bike, its electrical components... and charge the batt . This is the job of the RR.. it takes the AC current and converts it to DC or direct current. Not all the voltage that is "Rectified" is need tho, and some of that excess voltage is dissipated or "shunted" to ground.. All this work causes the RR to get really hot and If the RR is not in a cool location where it gets the most air flow, it will fry itself. For this reason I have moved mine to the front of the RAD...The 04/05 GSXR is well known for killing RRs because of where Suzuki chose to put it, under the back Cowl... hope that helped you out
@@TheChemistDIY good stuff bro’ thank you! I went through the recall for my 08, and they tested it and it’s charging now. After all I don’t think it needed a stator just the rectifier! I still haven’t ridden it as much but time will tell if it’s 100% fixed!
@@klachi7awesome, good to hear your up and running. One quick note before I let u be. One very good investment you are going to want is VISIABLE voltage meter located somewhere on your dash or bars. I can't tell you how much this has saved my ass when it comes to charging issues. If the volt meter is not displaying 13.8-14 volts during your ride then you know something is wrong and you need to get home QUICK!.. at about 10 volts left in the battery, your bike is going to shut off leaving you stranded.. This just happened to me the other day but because I was able to see the remaining juice left in the batt I knew how far I could ride to get me closer to home and Park in a safe area to where I could get towed.. yes it was a stator issue.. if not for that I would have been stuck on the freeway.
@@TheChemistDIY thanks, i' ve already take appart mine, but can not assembly back those internal white switches, I wonder if those couod be found , to just solder them back...if not, Im buying the complete switch set..thanks again.
