This is an amazing mod, and I’m looking hard at getting the instructions and components to do it. One question - would the Buwizz 2.0 have worked for the same speed/performance while also reducing a bit of cost? Do you lose anything by using 2.0 vs 3.0?
Hi, you do need the Buwizz 3.0, because the 2.0 is a different System (LEGO Power Functions only) and my DeLorean Mod uses LEGO Powered Up Motors (Buwizz 3.0 only). So it's a bit Apples and Oranges comparing the speeds. But yes, in another scenario using a PU Motor at any buwizz should be a bit faster than a PF Motor on a buwizz 3.0
really sad the designer of the delorean failed so bad the door / interior proportion as it should be longer, imho at least 2 studs, and the door windows is way too smal, the rest of the car is very fine, but that very visible detail pretty much waste the model
I wish RU-vid actually pushed this content out more because it's absolutely brilliant. My one question, though. Why did the Delorean cause the Lego hub to freeze and not any of your previous projects, like the Batmobiles? Seems a bit odd everything suddenly went so wrong with this one. Looking forward to Part II
Thanks. It also took me several weeks to make this. To your question, simple: The Batmobile and the Tumbler are much bigger, so I could use LEGO's Power Functions, which is the previous generation of motors, using only analog motors (not produced by LEGO anymore, but copied by other companies these days). The problem only happens with the small LEGO Powered Up Hub (current generation using Motors with a digital bus system and internal sensors) and I only used that in the ECTO-1 before, which is driven by a medium motor, which does not draw so much current as the L-Motor in the Delorean.
I also want to motorize the new 2024 LEGO Arterides Royal Ornithopter 10327 and I Want to ask you (see coments) I see multiple options. Please tell me in the coments, which option you would prefer, and what you think about it. OPTION-A: Internal Motor, just driving the wings (maybe! the landing gear too) Most likely Power Functions (no extendions for Powered Up) battery box external (any) or in the cockpit (buwizz or china-remote) OPTION-B: External Motor inside a Base, driving the wings and also making the ornithopter start and land and also controling the landing gear (Yes, a single motor could do that, I have an idea) OPTION C: Multiple external motors driving the wings, landing gear and moving the ornithopter like it's hovering while flying BASE: I will most likely need a base to hide the battery or mechanics. Would you prefer a plan for the base to make it look like part of the desert? Tiles and slopes in tan. Or should I leave it to you to develop something
Strange comment, dude, who cares what lende I use? чела - это я? Der "Typ" hatte nicht genug licht zuhause und sein 50mm Festbrennweite-Objektiv ist mit 1.8f seine schnellste Linse. Außerdem mag ich keine Weitwinkel, die sehen immer so nach billigem Handy-Selfie aus. Aber wen interessiert's? Der verdammte LEGO Tumbler fährt und sogar 'ne Rampe hoch! 😆 Слава Україні
This vid is so underrrated you did marvelous engineering here! I'll be trying this myself with mould king's 6.0 module and of course with my classic flare for fire trails. Thx for the guide!
Ahh, no, it's still power functions. So you will have to use a servo-motor, which is almost double the size of the powered up L-motor. will be difficult to get it under the hood.
This looks great! Thinking of trying it out, but I want to avoid dealing with constant battery swaps. Considering the BuWizz 3.0, like you used in the Delorean, for a more permanent charge solution. How easy is it to replace the powered-up hub with the BuWizz 3.0 in the Ecto-1? Also, I've got the Game of Bricks light and sound kit in mind. Already got your instructions - any thoughts on adding the BuWizz 3.0 to the Ecto-1? Cheers!
This question has been asked on rebrickable before and I actually have a buwizz (used it for the DeLorean) and it's great. Unfortunately it is one stud longer and has the sockets on top, so it would be quite difficult to build it into the same place (under the front seat bench) You would need to put it in upside down and change the base frame, to make space for the buwizz. BUT: honsestly, changing the batteries (use rechargable, also see my delorean video for the reason) is very quick. I leave the LEGO hub open, so I just pull them out and back in as I showed in this video. Besides, you dont have the problem of an internal battery going bad after some time.
@@recklessglitch Thanks for the info! I'll go with the hub and hunt for some good rechargeable batteries. Did the hub handle your lighting kit and motors, or did you need an extra power bank for the lights?
Wow.... your explaination is like the old school videosnwe watched in middle wchool and high wchool. Perfect expmainations very detailed. Helps ppl understand it very well. Thisbhelps understand and more motivated to do this to many different models Thank you!!!!!
Thank You, I got the inspired by @FortNine motorcycle videos. I think Ryan mentioned ones being a phycicist (I studied physics in my 20s too) and I like Ryans way of explaining.
Wow ! Das video ist einfach krass. Ich dachte ich bin der erste der dieses Auto fahrbar machen wollen würde 😊 Könntest du mir sagen ob ich noch etwas außer den Motoren etc brauche ? Also genau welche bricks werden denn noch zum Umbau benötigt. Das wäre richtig toll zu wissen ❤
klar gibts die komplette Teileliste mit allem du für den umbau brauchst. Ist mit der Bauanleitung auf rebrickable. rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-142730 du findest alle links, Bauanleitungen, Light kit und so auch in der videobeschreibung, clicked 'mehr' unter dem Video. Ich hatte den Delorean schon bevor er rauskam über ein speedbuild video digital nachgebaut, direkt bei Release im Laden gekauft und keinen Monat später die Bauanleitung fertig...
Ja danke!:) Ich hab mich jetzt reingefuchst und schon schon Teile bestellt. Mache erstmal kosmetische Upgrades wie Light Kit etc, die Motorisierung mache ich noch als extra Projekt. Eine Frage habe ich gerade noch: Kann man, wenn man die Lego Powerd Up Motoren nimmt, auch damit das light Kit steuern? Hab in der Beschreibung nur gelesen dass es für den Buwizz geht. Lg
@@ih4zy121 "Eigentlich" nicht, aber ... Diese Licht Kits für LEGO sind kein LEGO sondern nur sehr kleine leds mit sehr dünnen dräten, die man zwischen LEGO steinen verlegen kann. Die laufen alle über USB adapter auf 5 V und sind nicht für die Stromversorgung mit Powered up oder Powerfunktions konzipiert. ABER: Wenn du verstehst, warum es einen - und einen + Pol bei Elektronik gibt, also ein sehr grundlegendes Verständnis für elektrischen strom hast und dir zutraust sehr einfache Lötverbindungen zu löten, kannst du einen Adapter bauen. Beim buwizz kann man den direkt über einen LEGO power functions stecker anschließen. Wenn du den LEGO hub verwendest, musst du den irgendwie (löten oder kleine metall-plättchen reinklemmen) an die Batteriebox anschließen. Für den LEGO 10300 DeLorean mit buwizz Motorisierung habe ich den Bauanleitungen ( rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-111683 ) eine Anleitung für den Adapter beigelegt.
@@recklessglitch okay danke für für die Infos :) denke das bekomme ich hin. Mit etwas Hilfe 😅 Leider ist die Buwizz Version nicht so eine Option für mich. Das ist mit etwas zu teuer.
@@recklessglitch Aaaaber... Wäre es auch noch möglich wenn ich das große LED Set nehme mit Remote + sound etc ? (Also fragen wegen den verbaubaren Platz 😅)
Well the ecto you get from any LEGO shop. The rest ( rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-64578/#parts ) you can order from platform s like bricklink. You can even make a bricklink "wishlist" from rebrickable.
Wow, I thought you had hundreds of thousands of subscribers, the video quality is exactly at this level 😮! Thank you very much for your creativity and engineering!
Was thinking about it, but it's sooooo easy. Yesterday I visited friends, their 8 years old son showed me his favorite technic racing car. It has a similair size. I looked at it, saw how much space was left and said: "whow, I got the perfect motor for this one at home." And he said, "I have some motors." He had a cada Power functions copy set, just never used it. One hour later his LEGO car was driving remote controlled It took so long because he had to find the battery in his room. So just get some motors. Power functions copys will probably work easiest but Powered up should also do. Make sure you have at least one PF servo or PU large motor for the steering.
Du solltest mal mit dem "Held der Steine" in Kontakt treten. Dein Kanal, warum auch immer, hat scheinbar nicht die nötige Reichweite um deine hervorragende Arbeit zu würdigen. Ich bin wirklich außerordentlich begeistert von der Umsetzung als auch deiner Art und Weise die technischen Details zu erklären. Du hast es dir wirklich verdient.
ich liebe deine mocs von den großen Fahrzeugen und finde es sehr interessant und beeindruckend, was du da immer alles erschaffst aber Ich würde es auch gerne mal sehen, dass du auch was mit den kleineren sets machst nichts großartig technisches oder so einfach z.B. irgendwie beim kleinen tumbler ein batpod, wie es im film ist oder so würde ich echt feiern du machst gute Arbeit weiter so
Love your build as I have finally completed it and it works great! I do have a question about the transmitter and battery box placement. I may have missed it in the instructions, but where do you place those? Right now mine are simply in the front seat.
In the instructions for the 76240 there is a page showing where to put each controller. Its the same for both versions though: If you got the buwizz or a chinese control box, then yep, you got to remove a seat. Only the sbrick comes without a battery. So it's smaller and fits unter the side window, but then you would need to build some kind of battery that you could put under the bottom.
@@recklessglitch is the steering better in the 76240 version vs the 76023? The wheels seem to get caught on mine and it doesn't steer well. Considering redoing the front end if it is an improvement in that way.
@@levilear1 yes it is. For the 76240 I replaced legos nice golden hubs with some other technic bricks to get it more stable and tilt less into the frame.
Fantastic! I am a software and hardware engineer. Just had my delorean delivered with my light kit just days away. You have inspired me to motorise it. I will likely write a custom Android app to control my Delorean.
Well the motors obviusly, not too many people are interested in it. I get a lot of questions if I can make a not motorized version of the 76240 Tumbler, because it looks way better. But LEGO making even a second version, yet shipping with no feature but the same removable roof plates, not even a steering, is disapointing. And people were hoping for a removable bat pod when the first rumours appeared.
Thanks for asking. I had a look at it and it seems super easy, so I never did. Buwizz features instructions and a video though: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EDy14O5zw2c.html
Happy to hear. I think so too. Instructions already make you understand how things can work, so it's a good start. But they wont tell you the little things, like if certain builds make your gears grind or yur mechanics crack and that is the next step. Anyone can show how to put a nail into a piece of wood, but a carpenter will tell you to hit the nail on the tip before to prevent the wood from splitting, which helps even more.
Can we talk about how amazing the production quality on these videos has become? The first one on the Ecto-1 was already very good, but this one... the detailed explanations and schematics, all the little movie clips, the chalk drawings as background (with neon light effects! and freaking animations!), the staging, the editing, the sound effects! This is next level, 11/10. Not only is the video extremely useful for Lego car enthusiasts, but it's also a delight to watch. Hats off to you Mr. Glitch 👏
Wow, thanks! Happy that you see that. Before answering to that I also think this is my best video so far, but honestly I get hardly views compared to other videos. So I am happy if any of you shares this. ---- Yes, the Ecto was my first video. I was not very sure about Do's and Don'ts. I have some experiments by now and got some critical feedback which does help a lot. My 1989 batmobile video has quite some effort and effects too, but I hardly talk in that video. It appears that the audience is less intrigued to keep watching. Friend of mine even said, that it is too fancy to deliver the feeling of 'I can do that too'. The Tumbler appears to work best, so I took up the chalkboard-concept again for the DeLorean. But the actual reason this Video is better is time! The Ecto took me 1 night of filming and 2 weeks of editing. The delorean took me about 2 months of filming and editing (including sound correction, effets etc.) with multiple iterations. And a lot of hassle with huge chalkboard time laps videos :D:D:D I am working on the video for the 76240 tumbler now. Let's see what I can do.
@@recklessglitchYeah, it's sad to find hidden gems on RU-vid only to find out they get way less views than they deserve. Oddly enough I don't know many Lego friends, but I'm definitely sharing it to them. I didn't watch the Batmobile yet, I'm gonna check it out. About the chalkboard time-lapses, they look really great, but I'm not surprised that they take so long... you'll have to find a balance there haha Keep the movie clips and the jokes though, they're part of your style. Keep it up! 👌
