Ryan...I just started watching your channel yesterday.....and im loving your basement series and I'll probably do this in my new home on the unfinished basement side. This is great stuff and I've done framing as a teen in the early 80s...used plumb bobs back then😅😅😅😅....today the laser level makes it simpler. Your videos are like a refresher course.
I honestly think toe-nailing three nails for a typical sidewall is way overkill. Honestly 2, maybe even 1 screw is likely enough. Its not holding any weight.
I believe it’s a general consensus of modern building science that you should never use an impermeable vapor barrier on the inside of a basement, as it does not allow the moisture to dry to the inside and instead traps the moisture in the wall and foundation, leading to mold, and eventual structural issues due to water damage and hydrostatic pressure.
I had this question too when trying to navigate around a 4in sewage line blocking the joist connection at the top of a wall. Finally found this blocking technique literally a day before you posted! Looks like we are both pushing to complete the last annoying walls! Thanks for the videos!
What i don't understand is why this guys don't do floating walls incase the basement floors start to swell in other words floor starts to rise up because of the clay soil when wet expands and dry it shrinks
Looking forward to your part three. I have a somewhat similar scenario as you with the foundation cement wall on the bottom and a stud foundation wall on the top. I'm going to be doing that work relatively soon and haven't found a lot of videos of how to tackle that but I was wondering what your plan is for that space? Are you going to keep the uneven cement wall and studded wall or are you going to build a wall in front of it so it's a flat wall?
@@drew2180 it's all done. I'll probably get that video edited and out in the next 2 weeks. I built a wall in front (like every other wall) and anchored it directly into the foundation. I explain it all. I actually have a short video I may get out sooner specifically on how to do that wall. Will try to get that short video out this Sunday for ya haha.
That foamboard is the vapor barrier for those that are confused. Its closed cell foam and is considered a vapor barrier once properly sealed up with spray foam in the gaps and taped. Unless you have a serious moisture problem that requires a sump pit and pump that 1 inch pink foam is plenty.
@@gdb5448 hahaha I agree! But good in emergencies. Honestly, it's been great for balls (basketballs, etc) but not super practical for tires or big rafts.
@AmyCoulter-pq6gt we didn't do a follow up video. I just talked to my wife. She would recommend it bc the collagen stimulation occurred for months after and her fine lines were smoother and wrinkles diminished.
Hey there, I'm in the planning stages of finishing my basement. My house is 7 years old and wondering if I should apply spray foam or foam boards to the joist pockets. Or if its even necessary. Did you?
@istr8b3ast you can probably just cut the foam board to shove up there and make it flush with your foam insulation on the foundation walls. My builder actually put the fiber glass insulation up in there and all the way to the exterior wall. Technically, it can be a moisture risk, but if you just throw the foam insulation up there you will be good.
It is very important when you are making door framing, make sure door pillars and headers are level to the dot, it will help you when installing to door.
I did my basement of 620 sqft by solo, it took 2 years to complete. I created two rooms, one 3-piece washroom, laundry room however kitchen and living-room in one area. I have 9 to 5 job as a senior network engineer, 3 kids and stay-home wife who cannot help me with anything in the basement project. It was overwhelming for one guy to do it. I hired professional for plumbing, Hvac, electric, for 2 years I did not have a life and there was no Friday night special almost for two years.
Love the insulating vid geat points all round. Definitely if i was doing it before framing puting glob of the PL300 foam adhesive every 10" or so. I'll definitely get a bigger cold chisel like yours next time used a small one and took forever and the wife hated the hammering lol. PPE with glasses for sure and coveralls if chipping on the tar coating. Few things you could do 1. Put the framing up before and leave a gap from the foundation wall to put in the rigid foam and the batt insulation between the rigid foam and frame to apply pressure onto the board and only need a normal bead along the frame. Just make sure you have a gap to slide the boards in length ways. 2. Spray foam the bottom and up top in ceiling joist to have a continuous thermal break (my place in saskatoon canada requires it for new builds) 3. Optional you could use a 40 coarse abrasive angle grinder pad for those small edges or if you don't want the dust everywhere do the chiseling on each concrete form. The only thing with this using the angle grinder is you don't want to do it on the black tar coating because it really sinks up the place and i'm sure isnt good to breathe in. Overall love the work you did and explain your process. Definitely game changer to DIY with this and save $$$
Hey thanks for the feedback and all good ideas!! Probably a few small things I would have done different, but I'm happy with the process and outcome. Good luck with your projects!
Great video. Did you notice any significant difference in the humidity level in the basement after applying the foam board? I’ve got a similar poured concrete basement and am considering this as an option if it helps eliminate humidity.
@comedyoferrors77 to be honest, my basement has always been pretty dry. I had a dehumidifier down there and it never ran. The basement does "feel" more sealed and dry though.
Very cool shop! It may be on the small side, but clearly you have everything you need and it’s well organized. The best part is how comfortable and cool it looks to just be working in that space! I have a 2-car tandem garage and my main area where I work is in the tandem area of the garage which is about the same size space you have. I wish I was as creative as you. I just have most of my tools in cabinets and drawers to give it a clean look, but I like the look of your space much better as it looks like a dedicated wood-shop and not a garage with woodworking tools in it, like mine!
There is a video that shows you how to make an overlapping seam in your insulation where you wouldn't need to even fill seams. Because there would be none. Similar to installing hardwood floors.
@drdecker1 I honestly wouldn't think there would be a big benefit. At least in a newer house and an all below grade basement. Because I will also be doing R15 insulation between the 2x4 framing, so it'll be super insulated.
@@ryanscottlifts Better seal between the foam. The foam is also there to prevent any moisture from seeping through Into your fiberglass insulation and studs.
@@drdecker1 I hear ya, but the foam boards basically have no gap. Idk, I'd have to see the process you're talking about, but I don't think there would be a "real" advantage. Only an implied advantage. I am not going to save another $10 on my heating bill, and a fully below grade basement won't be drafty.
@christopherwill4441 nice! The NGX is just the next Gen version (and believe better for the environment). And to be honest it's all my local hardware store sold also.
-- You think that Aussie is going to help you? You already know. Just ordered one. Love Dewalt. It's not the best one, but it's my line of tools, and more than enough for my needs.
Is that insulation worth it? Unless your insulating the floors too seems like a moot point…. I’m about to build out a basement too so asking for my education
Yes, you need it. It acts as a vapor barrier as well. So, beyond just a bit of insulation. I'll also put fiberglass insulation between the 2x4s once electric is ran. You don't want your unpressure treated 2x4s flush against the concrete foundation walls.
@@ryanscottliftsexactly as I am doing in my 1940’s home in the basement. My city code recommended the formular 1” rigid for the vapor barrier. Then 2x4 or 6 with rock wool or fiberglass. Minimum is R15 overall.
Our permits in my area are only good for 6 months before they expire. If you get an inspection it’s good for another 6, I’m going to use dricore subfloor (it’s channeled rigid foam attached to osb for floor insulation and allows air flow) in combination with rigid foam wall insulation. Going to try and do that and frame without a permit that way I can take my time and not be rushed for inspection. Then pull permit and have electrical plumbing and framing inspected.
That's really smart. I almost did the channeled sub-floor but my basement is bone dry and has been tested multiple times. That said, 100% with you on the permits. I am waiting until I'm further along to get it all inspected.
@Fugalisious I did the foam board against the wall, and then I'll run the fiber insulation between 2x4 framing once the electric is ran. Still undecided ok floor but likely some manufactured flooring. I'll make a video for sure.
Again, maybe should have build subfloor first and built framed walls over that to protect for thermal transfer. I assume you have vapour barrier poly under the slab when built? That will help at least.
Good video but you need to take out the main jet and emulsion tube (if removable) (unless the main jet is also the bowl nut which it is on most Briggs engines with metal carb, Honda engines the main jet and emulsion tube are separate) and the pilot jet on top which is covered with the idle set screw.
Thanks! And yes, I agree. That said, usually if you just blast with some brake clean, I have found it knocks any blockages out regardless. So far, I've never had to go further to get a small engine to fire up. But good point!
