Confused about the process on edges. I see you used bees wax and THEN tallow? Is tge tallow going to be able to get into the leather if you just sealed it with bees wax? Or are we supposed to just put a light coat of bees wax? Unsure...
It will get in there OK. If you know that is how your leather will work in advance, like if you have been having problems with the whole hide, then you can certainly do it before putting the bees wax. You can also sand it with sandpaper for really stubborn bits.
Can be variable with the thickness of the leather you are using, and the thickness of their fur. If you have the dog nearby, the easiest way to make a perfect fit would be the same as a custom belt: Make the buckle end first; and then test fit it for marking the center hole.
Sorry, I am referring to the oblong hole that you would use a crew punch for. I think your idea of fitting the tongue into the punch for the sizing holes is genius!
For something like this I use a 1 inch oblong punch, and that works pretty well for most buckles that I use, whether for dog collars or belts. But really you just want to make sure it moves smoothly, and isn’t too big or small for the buckle pin (by that I mean some are welded, and some are twisted around the pin like the one I am using in this video. The welded ones are much thinner and don’t need as big of a oblong hole). Testing on a little piece of offcut is often easiest for the type of buckle you have.
Hello, thanks for asking. For the time being yes I did. Between my 2 young kids, renovations, and other life stuff I’m a bit short on time for my hobby. I am still making things from time to time, and hope to get back up and running and make some more videos soon.
If it burnished, it is not alumn tanned. Traditionally, we used to call a certain type of leather “latigo”, and that leath was usually alum tanned. Now a days, most latigo leather or leather sold as a latigo leather is either chrome tanned which like alum tanning, is a chemical tanned leather (although more stable than alum tanned leather), vegetable tanned, or combination tanned leather (chrome, then veg re-tanned). I think you have veg tanned leather since it is burnishing. Chrome or real alum tanned leather does not burnish.
bought an airbrush and have been really enjoying it for getting even color. I know you applied a beeswax finish here but Im curious to know have you ever tried applying a liquid top coat with your airbrush (like tandy ecoflo satin sheen)? i am thinking this would be a perfect way to ensure there is no streaking on larger projects and great way to apply the top coat over top of the antique gels as well without worrying about it lifting off as sometimes can happen with manual application. I am thinking a top coat like ecoflo satin sheen would be thin enough but i am hesitant to try it in the airbrush as i dont want to clog it up, and not sure what to use to clean the parts after (just water?)
Thats awesome! It is a great tool to havs. I have not tried it personally, but most of those products are soluble in water or maybe rubbing alcohol... they are surprisingly resilient!
Actually, I tell a lie! I remember now I did it once before when making some light green branded key chains. When I applied supersheen in my usual way, it went splotchy and darkened the colour too much. So I sprayed it instead. I did it over a few lighter coats. They took a while to cure from memory, but I still see those key chains floating around and they are still light green! My airbrush has worked fine since, though i am fanatical about cleaning it immediately after use so there is that... haha
Great! yes you can absolutely use that. It is already pretty thin so you could use it straight out of the bottle, but try experimenting with using it diluted for softer effects and to get more out of a bottle. But be sure to wear a respirator and good ventilation, they may be water based but may still be harmful when inhaled.
I got it from Tandy before they closed shop here. But there are some good options around. Birdsall leather stocks duall which has a good reputation. Or if you are in a pinch, bunnings has a variety of contact cements too, I'm using one from there now (because I was an idiot and forgot glue in my last leather order from birdsall)... but it's working quite well. Sika 4600 contact adhesive. Comes in a 1L screw top tin but has no brush so get a cheap little brush while you are at it. Hope that helps!
HA!!! Im searching for ways to improve my sheath making and two tone dyeing is something I wanted to try. Who do I run across??? Technology has indeed made this world very small. Thanks for the tutorial!
It is amazing how the world is so big but yet so small. You are on the other side of the world and 2 years ago you posted this awesome video. You inspired me!!!!!! I purchased an airbrush system because of your video. Now I need to learn how to set it up and use it. Thank you for taking your time to help. If you ever come to the United States and find yourself in Tennessee I want you to come for dinner.
Where should I buy leather for making collars? What should I search for? Do you have a site you recommend? I tried searching online and I just can’t find anything...
G'day Aiden, depends where you live. What country are you in? If you are in UK or USA then your options are great, and a good starting point for new leatherworkers would be Tandy Leather. But if you search for leather and saddlery suppliers you might find some in your area that stock leather for sale. Here in Australia I use Birdsall Leather mostly, or East Coast Leather.
For collars you want to look for weather resistant types of leather. Waxy or oily leathers, with a good firm temper (not floppy). Usually vegetable tanned, or combination tanned. Something like Latigo is good, but be wary of dye bleed from oily leathers. English bridle or harness leathers are usually more waxy, and are great choices but are premium leathers and can be expensive.
That's awesome! Really glad to hear that it was helpful for you. My workshop is currently on hold while i do some renovations, though i would love to make a video for some dog leads when I am operating again... hopefully that is in the next couple of months :)
Thanks Chuck. All the measurements and my description of how to make your own version of this template are shared in the first 4 minutes of this video.
Haha! Excellent :) Rivets are much easier for a lot of projects. Check out my vid on making the riveted handbags, they can be a little more tricky but take way less time than stitching too!
Hi Brandon, If the collar gets wet, dye bleed can happen. And also any excess can rub off, even when it remains dry. That is because the dye behaves differently to leather that has been painted (like most commercially available collars) The black is fairly minor for rub off though, because it is hidden... but the burgundy latigo is a real oily leather... it will absolutely rub off, and will cause dye bleed like a stuck pig when it gets wet the first few times. Staining of the dogs coat will happen, but the effects are temporary. My border collie had a bit of discoloration for about 3 months, and we took him swimming in his collar too. But since then, even when wet, he has not been stained again.
Sure has! Reno is going well, mostly just in clean up mode now... all the "clutter" from the house is now cluttering up my work space.... but I cleaned a bunch out last weekend and should be back to work on a few more weeks. :)
LOL. I perfected needle thread snag a long time ago. Then I watched a vids of Nigel saddle stitching and noticed his technique. Haven't had a needle thread snag since.
Thai Vuu well that would make a good conditioner for leather, and certainly soften it, but I have never tried it for burnishing. Give it a go and let us know how it works! :) Also you can sand the edge with a fine grit sandpaper, around 800 grit for best results, or even an emery board (nail file) if you have one laying around the house... my wife's are never safe!
Gracias, bueno y muy completo. Podrías mejorar las tomas del trabajo en algunos detalles, pues no se aprecia bien. Tapas con la mano lo que estás haciendo y no se puede ver.
