Hello, Robin Here! Helping you find some of the Answers to your Question. I personally found video to be one of the best ways to quickly teach and learn how to complete a task, or even learn a whole new skill. Hopefully, some of my videos can help you with your questions. Thanks for continuing to Watch, Subscribe, Comment, and Like my Videos.
I have never soldered before but your video is done so well, that I am excited to go give soldering a try! Thank you for making such a concise, easy to follow tutorial!
No heat sink, if you have to use one then would smaller be better because it heats up fast ? l fail wihen replacing smd led disks for 30w bulbs E27 after say 5 months , i know it's heat which a 8 ohm resistor really helps if you're happy losing lums , could soldering iron heat be the culprit ? 20,000hrs no way ?
I just picked your most recent video to ask a question about RGB led lights with a 4 pin connector. I have the led lights in my car they came from O'Reilly's but one of the pins broke so I cut the connector off in hopes to hardwire it but the lights also plugged into a little box with a nob so when you turn it the lights change. Well I no longer have the box so what I have is 2 RGB light strips that are connected with about 3 feet in between them(one above the pedals for driver side and one for passenger side under dash) the wire is cut off at the part that plugged into the box.. I was gonna wire the power to the fuse box and ground the ground wire but I don't know what color is what. I have a blue,white,black,and red. I'm gonna use a 3 prong switch to turn them on(I know it will only be one color). How do I accomplish this? Sorry so long
instead of overlapping the joints in your last segment surely you can simply place them next to each other touching and connect them with solder so it's neater ?
This helps a lot BUT most LED strip kits simply say cut the strip (on the dotted lines) but say ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about reconnecting and do not include corner connectors, like you’re just supposed to overlap them and they’ll work. Extremely frustrated and I was hoping you might comment on that issue. I’ll look through your channel and hopefully you have an answer
Ive always taken the amateur route and used connectors but am now taking the plunge into soldering to do it properly. I just wondered if I should use Flux or just solder with Flux core solder?
Great video. One addition: the bluish cool white is not 5000K but above 6000K, around 6500K. 5500K is about noon daylight, 5000k is afternoon, 4000k is sunset. 2700-3000K is incandescent light color. Too bad the Chinese dealers don't sell 5000-5500K LEDs, only up to 4000 and above 6000.
I always have a tough time when I'm stripping the wire in the middle, and it breaks the wire in half. Any strategy to help that? Has this happened to you?
I've always felt this way when people refer to rocket science as an intellectually taxing career: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lVPsBmhgjTk.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xjVEnUe3dnc.html Thanks for creating and sharing the video!
I bought some from amazon. 5050 RGB. And 1m diffusers.. Turns out the chip per meter ratio was not that good as the diffuser just shows the LEDs and doesn't event diffuse light. So I can see the individual LEDs showing through the diffuser lol.
Nice job...you may however want to consider using a CU-close up (Or ECU-Extreme Close Up) when doing/showing the detailed work. Also, position the camera so that your dominant hand isn't blocking the camera.
Great video. It explained led to me. Got a simple question. I am mounting Led for my ship model case and will Stick to underside of top panel made of acrylic. What do you recommend that I use to hold them in place. The double sided tape that came with leds does not hold up for very long. Thanks DickT
hi, im trying to figure out what type of led strip lighting to light up my ship model display? i prefer not to solder but just bend around corners. my frame is built out of 3/4" sq material with slots for acrylic panels. id like to send you a pic before you answer. thanks, dickt
Yes, it's called persistence of vision (POV). Not all RGB LEDs are fast enough to pull it off, but the dotstar/APA102's are. Example: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1CB3UVmEcB0.html
Great video! Your tips really helped me, thanks. Also, as a brit it sounds so weird to my ears that you don't pronounce the "l" in solder, and instead say "sodder".
If I have an oval shaped mirror and I'm trying to line the led lights to turn it into a body vanity mirror, am I able to curve the led strip to trace the oval shape of the mirror? I know I could wrap the led around the side of the oval frame, but I didn't want to do that. Hopefully this made sense
G'Day Sir I really appreciate your video and it is very helpful. Sir I need help please :-( Unfortunately I am really struggling with making the right decision on what I should buy so I can illuminate 2 custom build solid wood wardrobes and really hope you would find the time to help me figure out what I should do and how. The idea is to run a continuous a single RGB LED Light-strip in a "aluminium U-Channel with a defuser cover over the LED strip so it is a more polished and professional overall finish my reasoning for running a continuous Light Strip ( approximately 7 meters in length) is that I only want a single power plug with a single on/off switch and the remote controller to change the colour as my wife pleases. I don't understand what all the components are that I need, especially for the power supply ( not sure if that setup requires some sort of a transformer and if so what wattage should it be? All i can see watching numerous videos is that it seems these LED light strips require something to change the voltage up or down ?? and speaking of Voltage what should I get? there are 5Volt, 12 Volt, 24 Volt and the 220-240 Volt light strips available and ALL have different components etc etc .. For your information...I am thinking of placing all the power stuff on top of the Wardrobe or should I secure them underneath where the space is for the kick-board?? .... anyway, I then intend to connect to a 220- 240 Volt power outlet. I was thinking that I will get the person who is doing the woodwork to use a router to make a channel for the Aluminium channel where I wish to hide the LED STRIPS and connectors) which will be in the centre upright boards .....meaning the upright partitions or the various sides of the wardrobe. I was contemplated using L-Shape connectors as the lights would basically go up/down/up/down/and up again BUT that doesn't work because they ( the LED LIght-strip ) will not lie flat in that case...so I came across 90 degree 4 pin 10 mm connectors that are joined with 4 or 5 short wires so they can be bend in whichever position I need them to lie in the channel. i am not sure if I make myself very clear here but hope you get the idea and would love your feedback on my idea so I can buy everything online and hand it to the maker of the Wardrobe (btw, i am located in the Philippines) this person knows his craft but has no idea what i want to achieve so I explained it to them adn I just need to supply all the componnents and that is why I am writting to you and ask for your help to figure this out please. happy to email you the plans and provide you with a screen recording so I can better explain if you are struggling to make sense out of my idea. I hope to hear from you kind Regards and many thanks in advance Jim
