You didn’t mention anything about if it put out a signal or if you get Wi-Fi outside from it or if you can only receive Wi-Fi through the Lan cable into the house
Great question! At near freezing it defrosts pretty often...think about snow/sleet accumulating on the unit. When it gets much colder than freezing it seems to defrost a little less often. I believe there are sensors that detect when the unit is performing less than optimal and initiate a defrost cycle once its much colder. All in all the defrost cycle only lasts 3-5 min max.
If you have an average home (1500 sft to 4500 sft), and live in the frigid north of the US or Canada, then Mitsubishi HyperHeat Multi-Zone is the most inefficient system for you. You are better off installing a Mr Cool Single Zone of Multi-Zone, because Mitsubishi multizone will short cycle frequently (going to ZERO to peak - shutting down and starting up), resulting in energy consumption of over 3000Kwh. Other companies have designed the systems to modulate but not Mitsubishi.
3kw is a hell of alot better than 20kw electric resistance heat, besides what’s the difference in 1.5kw running for an hour “modulating down” vs 3kw running for 30 minutes
You know absolutely nothing, do you? Mitsubishi will always be a better option than any Chinese heat pump. Scandinavians heat their homes almost exclusively with Mitsubishi Hyperheats (a few opt for Panasonic Heatcharge units instead), and they're getting the same amount of cold as Canada does. Chinese units (i.e. Gree and the various Midea OEM users like Mr Cool and Pioneer) are the ones with bad compressor modulation. The one thing you're correct about is that single units are more reliable than multisplit units. After a certain temperature (below about -30C/-20F) there's only one way to heat properly, so this whole discussion about heating methods becomes completely irrelevant. And that is, believe it or not, WOOD. Not gas, not heat pumps, not even coal boilers on radiators, but a plain and simple wood stove. It's completely independent from electricity in the worst case scenario of the energy grid failing (boilers have an electric pump to circulate the radiator fluid, heat pumps are obviously all electric, resistance heating is too), and it's what'll save you from certain death.
I am looking to get one of these, but it needs to communicate with 3 devices inside of an outdoor metal cabinet. I am not sure if it would be able to work through the metal cabinet. Could the WAN cable be connected to a switch inside the cabinet where the signal could be and just run ethernet cables to hardwire the devices without having to rely on the WIFI signal being interrupted by the metal?
This is air conditioning... Air conditioning is heat pumps moving heat around. In the winter they move heat from the outside to the inside. In the summer they move heat from the inside to the outside.
I have the same system only slightly larger with a 4 room wall unit system and one 36KBTU compressor. I bought My house 3 years ago and it was built in late 60's has radiant electric ceiling heat only. My first winter on radiant electric heat Dec-Jan- Feb averaged about $480 a month and that was regulating the house between 64-68 depending on when i was home or not. I put this Mitsubishi system in the following summer and my electric bill for the last 2 years averages for the same 3 month period $140-$150 a month. Saving close to $130-$140 a month through the winter months. Since installed I haven't had the need to turn on the radiant electric... this system more than handles my northern Ohio weather... -12 is the coldest day so far since install and it didn't even blink. Summer AC Mode went from about $60 a month running a single window AC in my bedroom... to $75-$80 a month with this system but am cooling the entire house 68-70 Degrees instead of just one bedroom.
@@newpylong I'm an installer. And in UK at least, your comment about cost is a complete lie. Latest info from from UKIFD: average annual heating costs for three bed house: kerosene £1323; gas £1583; ASHP £2935 (sept 2023) So absolutely zero payback time after a very costly installation.
I hear you! We do burn wood as well. We use a WoodMaster outdoor furnace for our cast iron radiators as well as domestic hot water. The only utility we have is electricity so its either heating oil, propane, wood, or electric. The Mitsubishi heats our living area and the kitchen most of the time. The WoodMaster does the rest of the house. Its nice to have the versatility. Long term goal is to install more heat pumps in other areas.
Cheaper than firewood regardless of outside temp - I think. Search for True Cost of Energy Comparisons - Apples to Apples Published Mar. 2017|Id: BAE-1408 By R. Scott Frazier OKSTATE
I have the same system only slightly larger with a 4 room wall unit system and one 36KBTU compressor. I bought My house 3 years ago and it was built in late 60's has radiant electric ceiling heat only. My first winter on radiant electric heat Dec-Jan- Feb averaged about $480 a month and that was regulating the house between 64-68 depending on when i was home or not. I put this Mitsubishi system in the following summer and my electric bill for the last 2 years averages for the same 3 month period is about $140-$150 a month. Saving close to $130-$140 a month through the winter months. Since installed I haven't had the need to turn on the radiant electric... this system more than handles my northern Ohio weather... -12 is the coldest day so far since install and it didn't even blink. Summer AC Mode went from about $60 a month running a single window AC in my bedroom... to $75-$80 a month with this system but am cooling the entire house 68-70 Degrees with four wall units... instead of just one bedroom with a single Window AC unit.
120F is awesome. I have one that has a stated lower limit of 5F or -5F (depending on what literature one looks at), it was still working at (also) -7F, but had output of only 89F (and needed to be supplemented with the furnace). I wanted to know how much better those 'hyper heat' models were, and now I know. Thanks.
I had my doubts about how much performance we would see when temps went that low too. I was fully planning on a similar output to what you mentioned (80-90°F) which is still very respectable. I was pleasantly surprised. Made me feel good about spending the extra $ on the Hyper Heat for sure.
I have a Fujitsu XLTH that looks very similar in looking and performantce to your Mitsubishi HHi unit. However, the look when I open my door does not look as nice as yours.
I have heard great things about Fujitsu as well. I would say your XLTH is a mirror image to the Mitsubishi too. Its amazing how well these units perform in the extreme temperatures.
I have this same pairing in my sunroom. Like that it has a vacation mode with a special 50°F set point. Keeps the pipes from freezing. (In Southern New Hampshire). Oh, I have the 12 kBTU pairing.
So our house is pretty big (old farmhouse) and the walls are plaster so we need multiple Wi-Fi units around the house for penetration. In our case, the Cudy (on the roof) brings in the cellular internet (via a network cable) and then runs into another router that sends the internet to 4 access points (Unifi Mesh) located in various spots around the house. This gives us excellent coverage inside.
This unit has far exceeded my expectations. My use case may be different than some so I will describe our setup. Since we have a metal roof, which blocks cell signals very well I might add, we needed an external way of bringing cellular data into our house. By placing the Cudy outdoor router on a mast on top of the house and then running a network cable from the Cudy to the inside of the house we can broadcast the data via AP's (not Cudy) we have placed in various spots around the house. This way we have the best of both worlds...an external connection and the strength of additional AP's inside. The Cudy has been rock solid. It has full cellular bars and when I perform speedtests I routinely get 50mbs down and 15mbs up. For some that is slow but for us its better than we have ever achieved in our rural setting. As a side note...the Cudy does have onboard 2.4g wifi but we have turned it off because it will not penetrate our metal roof (which we expected) and is why we use the network cable instead.
Thanks for letting us know that the Hyper Heat ODU really does still make great heat in the SUB zero temps. I have a 30k BTU Mitsubishi setup here with 3 air handlers. They are Hyper Heat units, but the ODU is only standard and rated down to 5 above. Because I wanted to keep my old gas furnace, my installers did not push for the Hyper out door unit. That was a mistake because I wanted to make the split system my primary heat source which I how I treat it. Anyway...... This system will make warm air at that max rating, but now in my second winter with it, I do as you did. At 9 degrees (in my case), I will kick the gas furnace on for one cycle (20 minutes) set at 69. This gives the home a kick start if the Mitsu has fallen behind overnight. Usually as soon as the morning sun comes up and temps get around 11 degrees, I run the Mitsu again and it will maintain that temp. Yes, it does indeed run a bit harder, but electric here is cheaper then gas. (with my 1979 - original to the home furnace with 150k BTU burner!). Because of my system, I have helped suggest the Mitsu system to TWO friends, but they went with FULL Hyper Heat units and they have no issues with them in the coldest of over night temps we have had so far. Thanks for your video of the defrost cycle. You will also notice then when in defrost, the indoor units will move the out put fins back to full horizontal position and when done, will return to your set positions. ( BTW, I am here in Western MA.)
Thanks for your comments Gary and sharing about your system and your experience with it. It's really fascinating to hear how others are integrating heat pumps into their homes because they are so versatile. Some use them for specific zoning and others rely on them 100% as their primary source of heating and cooling. You should be in pretty good shape using your 30k unit to cover most of the winter. Here in southern Ohio we do see temps in the negatives but not for very long...maybe a few days to a week or so here and there. Like you said when the sun comes up and the temps rise just a tad it makes it much easier for the systems take on the full load. In our home (built in 1850) we have several forms of heating. Mostly we use our OWB to heat water that runs underground into our house and supplies heated water for our old cast iron radiators installed in rooms around the house as well as our domestic hot water. The kids and my wife love the endless hot water for the showers lol. We also have a pellet fireplace insert we can run in our living room which is also where the Mitsu floor unit is installed. We mostly run the Mitsu to maintain the heat in the living room because of how efficient and cheap it is. Our last resort is an oil boiler which we haven't run for years now except to test it every now and then. Take care!
Great video! I wish you would have recorded the sound inside the house when it was defrosting. People in my area of Wisconsin complain that they can hear a whooshing noise inside when it is in defrost mode. Also I noticed that your outside unit isn’t that high off the ground. Do you ever have trouble with snow getting too high around the unit?
Great idea! I'll wait for it to get cold enough to get into a routine defrost cycle and will record what it sounds like inside. There is a swooshing sound but its really not too loud. From what I understand the sound comes from the switching valve reversing the flow of refrigerant to heat the outdoor unit so it can defrost. As far as the height of our condenser...we don't usually get a lot of snow all at once here in southern Ohio...we mostly deal with freezing rain and light snow.
I have the 4 room version 36KBTU yes it does make a whooshing going into defrost mode. Basically for a short period of time it switches from Heat mode to AC Mode pulls a bit of heat out the house to defrost/ice the outside condenser coils. Sometimes its a bit loud and sounds like its going to blow up off the wall as the gas/liquid refrigerant reverses direction...usually happens when its under high heat demand and needs to defrost and that reversing valve switches... other times I can barely hear it when it switches when the heat demand of the house is low
I totally agree. You can read the specs that say they heat well into the negatives but until you actually see it doing that it's hard to believe. Unbelievable engineering!
Mine makes a crazy loud whooshing noise from the inside units whenever it goes into defrost mode. You ever have problems with noise inside the house? Mine’s awful. Won’t run it below 37 degrees because of the noise. Technician just said that’s normal. Skeptical.
Yea mine will do that too. Wooshing is a great way to describe it for sure. Its completely normal and nothing to worry about. Its programmed to defrost as quickly as possible to get back to heating mode so it runs at full speed to do this.
Usually as the temperature drops, the efficiency (how fast it heats up your home), it will just take longer to do and than after about -35F, the efficiency will be so low that you should than turn on your Natural Gas (or propane, wood, or pellet) heater to continue the job until the temperature rises outside again. Usually those temp drops happen a few hours to a few days UNLESS you are in the artic regions.
We just had temps that sat around -9 for a few days with wind chills around -30. It put out great heat and did not have any issues heating our room. I did a video of it running at -7 and showing it was still putting out 120 degree heat! Crazy...here is the video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1LPrSdN5P7M.html
We have standard vinyl windows and with them closed I can’t hear it in the house. I admit defrost it is a little louder than I anticipated because when its running in heat mode you can barely hear it at all. We love the unit!
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Generators should an could be fed to a house but the Hot needs to be disconnected from house to not back feed to utility lines………..NOTE !!! This unit supplies 60v to ground from NEUTRAL… THE NEUTRAL ALSO MUST BE DISCONNECTED AT SERVICE
Losing the POCO neutral is irrelevant. The generator neutral is still bonded to the grounding electrode system in the house at the main panel or first disconnect. Your generator will function correctly and safely. Crossed lines on the POCO will trip their circuit breakers. POCO also grounds their neutrals. The neutral to your home from the POCO is grounded at the main service panel or disconnect as well.
Don't do what this guy is doing! Without proper knowledge of how to safely do the back feed you can be held liable for eletrcuting linemen trying to do repairs! Where talking negligent homicide! DON'T DO IT!
Rsbsteadicam... when writing to somebody be respectful. I'm not your "buddy" or your crack head pipe sharing mate. Keep your mouth shut and learn to make yourself understood when trying to write a few sentences.
OK dildo a lot of things "work" but just power your stuff from extension cords and leave a complex system you so obviously know nothing about alone or "as is." Apart from anything by following these directions you will have completely voided your homeowner's insurance policy and could be held both criminally and civilly liable for just about anything that may happen as the result of following this very, very foolish video. Use extension cords and have a fire extinguisher handy too.
Don't ask this idiot this question! Read and understand (start-up loading) wattage and you will answer your own question. This guy thinks he is inventive where as instead of simple extension cords he is setting his whole family for a tragedy. What happens when someone trips over the suicide cord and that male to male connection he's made shorts across the metal chair right next to the generator?
