Hi I'm Greg! You've probably heard my voice in interviews, Arcade reviews & Top 10 videos on Shacknews, Gamerhub.tv, and Gamecrate, but here I'm just a guy who shoots and edits video. I'm fully committed to bringing you helpful Ghostbusters: Spirits Unleashed content!
Any suggestions how to split into one of the JST connections on the ninja tunes board to power a few low lowered LEDS? prefer it to come on with the pack and not have several battery packs scattered around.
You want to splice it into the NT board? I would honestly go higher up, and splice it into the wiring harness for your battery pack. Batteries on, LED's are on, then you would hit the pack switches to bring the lights/sound on from there? Wiring is not really my specialty so I'm sure there are other ways to do it that may act more in line with what you want?
Once all the brackets are aligned with the holes will it stay aligned if you need to remove the mobo? Or do you have to start the alignment process again if you remove the mobo for whatever reason?
Guys, hair dryer and WD40. Those are the absolute best tools when it comes to sticker removal. Always heat the glue up and you’ll find it’s so much easier to get the stickers off.
Ever tried using lighter fluid to lift off stickers? (Not lit obviously) Much quicker - will lift off the whole sticker with patience and allow the sticker to be reused (not that you wanted to do that) but will not rip and leave paper or glue after (chemical in the fluid breaks down the sticky stuff) great vid!
Okay, so my pack is still completely stock on the electronics side. I'm not that good at modifying electrical components, and I want to keep my pack stock for the most part. So, my question is, will the stock board in the pack, along with the batteries, be enough power to allow this speaker you've shown to work?
@@Gregors85 Woohoo! Got it all to work. I was able to barely use what little grip was left to take it off and start over. I just used the rubber cover to have it sit closer to the pack. I can always cut off the hanging part of the cover later if it bothers me. Thanks!
Thinking about doing this mod but I’m not sure if I want to deal with the headache of ripping out the fake copper wires. Real Clippard valve is already installed I just gotta get the longer screws
I was onboard with this until the actual mounting it. 😂 WAY too much messing around for the sake of having a metal back. Credit to you guys but not worth the hassle for me.
So, what I did, using the same talent cell, was to take the wall in the "snack compartment" and trim off from top of the upper screw hole and up, and then use double sided tape to tape the talentcell to the wall separating the electronics board from the rest of the pack. I did have to to trim off the top of the battery compartment, but kept the rim with the the gasket. From the outside of my pack you would never know I'm running a talentcell, but I can access it from the "snack compartment" door. I have both the talent cell, and a JBL Go2 speaker in my "snack compartment"
For the ALICE Frame nuts; If you want to get them from the hardware store instead of harvesting them from the OEM motherboard, you will need the following metric nuts: • (10) M6 x 1.0 & • (2) M8 x 1.25 I recommend grade-5, nylock.
Theoretically, yes. However, I haven't dug into the guts of the control board, I just know that that plate and the switches you're looking at have a very tight tolerance and are gonna be a pain to un-mount.
I feel if you don't swear or cuss at your pack while doing upgrades, mods or build then it's not a proton pack. My pack is a son of a Bitch and it knows it. Looking good my friend!!!
so, these speakers will work with the stock sound board and power of the haslab packs? Will it be compatible with a ninja tunes board if i upgrade that later?
@@Gregors85Respectfully, pronunciation is a little off. Y’all pronounced it “Clip-pard”, whereas I believe it is supposed to be pronounced “Clip-perd” goofy stuff.
Toothpaste method in my experience works great, and I have had thos happen before. All I had to do was use primer before hand and it worked great after that. Look forward to seeing the end result!
It just takes practice and in fairness, I kinda cheated as far as eyeballing that hole. Once you nip the stud that the fake Clippard mounts onto you have a really clean circle right around the spot you want to drill into, and it's pretty easy to center up on and punch.