Nice work. It would be nice to know how much paint is required to complete the full respray of the car body and all the ancillary parts you have just painted. As in how much primer, base, clear etc is required. The reason is ask is i too have to do the exact same process at home (DIY) on my 1988 black 560SEC of which i too have a complete WB Kit to fit exactly the same as what you have just completed. Thanks for sharing all the hard work you have put into this build and the end result will be stunning for sure👍
Thank you, and so I used a complete gallon of the black and a gallon and some of the reducer, and a complete gallon of the clear and the activator. Now all the paint will be used up but you should have clear left if you don't do a "two stage" clearing also called "flo clear." Check out part 14 "Refinishing the 560" and at the end you will see the product of choice the customer picked. Good luck with that build and if you have any other question and you need to call, I can be reach at 718 926 4891 and my name is Gary aka GeeAny.
Yes I can do it, I have a lexus to put up that I done a few years back. Look through my videos and you will see it in the background with myself and Chip Foose.
This kit is the "replica kit" and it doesn't fit at all. Therefore to make it fit cost twice as much to install as the euro kit which is 25k to install that one. So you are looking at 45k to install, body-work and paint. These prices are only for the labor and materials and not including the kit.
So I fiberglass in a metal bracket that I cut out of sheetmetal and bend the edge to the contour of the edge of the bumper to give it strength for the holding of the screws on the "wheel weld lip" of the fender. Then I'm able to flush the screws into the fiberglass edge of the bumper to give it that clean look.
Its one of those replica Chinese made kit that the customer bought on line. Just google 560 sec wide body kit and you will see several venders pops up "all selling the same kit."
The dark green is a "refine fiberglass" known as "Marglass." The white filler is a "light weight 'premium filler." its like a combination of Polyester and regular light weight filler in one.
Glad to see you back man making videos of your beautiful work. 2:46 I'm trying to figure out , what did you do here? A custom bracket to move the reinforcement bar forward because the bumper cover was needed to go forward also? I saw you cut and splice the bumper cover , but it's not clear what you did to the reinforcement.
Hay what's up, so I didn't used a reinforcement on the bumper cover. I fiberglass it back together (no custom bracket) and the reinforcement "I shorten the shock absorbers to pull the reinforcement in for clarence for the bumper to fit in place.
what adhesive did you use and the bare metal you stick to how did you key this so the glue sticks well. Will the bare metal you applied the adhesive to will this not rust over time any areas where there is no paint or adhesive Im assuming you will remove the screws once the adhesive had dried and fill over with fibreglass
GM great question; so I used a "panel bonding" adhesive by 'SEM" that bonds any type of automotive panels. It comes at different speed in curing time depending on temperature in the shop "you buy the one that's compatible with the weather in your area." Now on the question about "rusting over a period of time. If you notice I kept the area to apply the adhesive at a small size right through; then I applied the adhesive closer to the inside edge to the paint so that when I install the panel and squeeze it to the body "the adhesive then spread to the paint and leave no raw metal." If any metal did not cover "it will be minor and will take a life time to show or never will" because it has to get constant water on it and that will never happen because that area is sealed up completely.
@@geeanyautobodybuilds thanks, im assuming you removed the screws after it has set, in the uk we have 3m panel bond, ife been advised that in hot weather the metal body and fibreglass panel move at different rates as such will cause cracks over time, what are your thoughts regarding this,. You are doing a great job.
Thank you; now on the bonding "I used rivets on the ends to ensure a solid bond. These bonds are designed "not to let go" under any condition. I also used "refine fiberglass" on the edge to give it a extra "lock down" on the edge of the panel before I finished up with filler and polyester finishing putty. I'm confident that it will last because after extensive sanding "it never showed any sign of cracking or lifting."
@@geeanyautobodybuilds so you left the rivets in only on the edges and filled over them with refined fibreglass, did you skim all the edges with refined fibreglass and then filler and polyester finishing putty
The customer supplied the kit, but there is only two kits that are available for this build in the world. One in Germany "which cost about $4000" and a "Chinese replica" which is this one (It's crappy and it's no where near plug and play) on this build that cost about $1800. I could build this for you out of metal onto your car . You would only need the bumpers and side skirts to complete the package,
Nice look but want fenders that don’t look like a 4x4 with bolt recesses. Been looking for mean put classy . Saw some from a company but can’t find them anymore. Bummer 😢
Quite a few brands to look at. Also there's a full body kit that just came out a few weeks ago for the car I'll link the kit RU-vid removed the comment due to "advertising"........ It's a "stets r53s mini Cooper widebody kit".
Reach out if you want a few different links to really nice fender flare kits This is from hours stacked on hours if looking and doing background searchs for the quality of each kit. I do this because I love r53 minis lol
Excellent work & progress so far. I have to do the exact same process myself with my own SEC widebody Kit i sourced from the US some + 8yrs ago & imported to Aust. Its going on my 1988 Euro Black 300hp 560SEC of which i have a custom 6ltr M117 engine build iam doing that is to be swapped in. Doing all the work at home myself in my own workshop ( i own 3 x W126's all fully modded with AMG parts) but the black widebody has always been my dream car. Following your progress closely as iam a hands on DIY car enthusiast self taught all aspects including panel & painting & engine building & interior work
Thats great, you're a true car guy. After watching this complete build "you will have the blueprint of how to install that kit even if it fits better than this one does."
Hi sorry that I'm just getting back to you on your question but he said that this kit is from China and they are one of the main aftermarket supplier of this kit throughout. No manufactures in the US only retailers.
Hi I have a question do you have a shop in United States I want to do the same to my car please give me some information where I can contact you or get in touch with you
Is this your SEC or for a client? Where was the WB kit source from? Will subscribe to follow the build (own 2 x Euro SEC's) Interesting to find out what brand panel bonding you are going to use for the rear flairs and yes best to pop rivet & leave them in
Ok so this car is a client and the kit is supplied by client and he said that its a Chinese made kit. For bonding to vehicle 'I will be using a "two part" panel bonding agent by SEM.
Yes I will bond it to vehicle with a two part bonding agent by SEM and that will ensure a life long bond without cracking. What happens with the ones that cracks over a period of time is "they were done with poor bonding agent or they were riveted. Then heads of rivets gets sanded, then filler was added to finish off" and that will crack every time over a period of time. Just not the proper way to install these panels to metal or aluminum panels.
so in initially use screws to hold when bonding and then remove the screws, 3M also have a panel bonding adhesive, what is the SEM product, do you have a link please. I was told because fibreglass and metal expand at different rates, when warm, there will always be cracking after a while, regardless of what adhesive you use, subscribed and following
