I have always enjoyed learning and doing my own projects. Putting out these videos will hopefully help someone with their projects. That's why I decided to make these videos straight to the point and with as much detail as possible, without making them too complicated.
This RU-vid channel is, in and of itself, a learning project for me.
It's working with micro structures. Just give it another thought what will happen if you touch it. It's cool, but not long lasting. So don't get your expectations too high. But eventually it's a very smooth build plate which is also nice. But the effects will vanish very fast from your 3d print just by touching the print.
Those effects are just temporary. When you touch the print you destroy the structure and it will be gone within no time. It's cool and you get a smooth build plate, but don't expect that effect to last.
This is the one I got, but there are many others that sell similar/same one. 3D Printing Build Plate, Double-sided smoothf of PES, suitable for bamboo Lab (grid PES + lattice PES) a.co/d/9Ph7174
@@JamesAllen-xu8hw Yes,. The adapter helps with AMS Lite and to add a few other externals spools. Without it, I would need to unplug a tube every time at the base of the print head. That wears out the tube ends it could start popping off.
I have tried respooling to these reusable holders but find my filament gets stuck down the edges between the spool wall and the part that goes through the filament.
Are you using the elegoo filament? After respooling, it's a good idea to press the filament down down to make sure you don't get gaps. Doesn't happen often but it can happen.
I just tried PolyTerra cardboard spool and the Bambu cardboard core fits inside the PolyTerra core. I don't know if that will make it more stable or it makes no difference because the spool's flanges do fit pretty snugly. Fingers crossed!
Hey, this does help me. I just bought one and in less than a month it stopped engaging into gear. I filed a warranty claim and then they asked me to see if the gears are stripped….and I’m like oh man OK so this is a good learning experience for me. “Know your car !“
They making you take it apart? Oh that sucks. It can be a little intimidating with all the gears but not bad. A tip when rebuilding the gearbox. Do a very light coating of grease if you want to add some. If you add to much, it will have a hard time shifting. Good luck.
The only thing I have to add is that i wrap cling film/sarin wrap around the filament instead of using tape. so it helps keep the whole drum compressed and not loose. Have cut the tube of wrap to the width of the roll to make it easier. If it goes pear shaped don't give up I use a winder (see MakerWorld Filament Rewinder) through the still un-tightened Bambu reel hold it together, then partially wind it onto an empty drum. But pulling the sides off is a better/easier solution that rewinding.
@@CarlexDIY On new spools before breaking the cardboard of, so it holds the filament in place on the roll, usually find biggest problem is one loop of filament drops into the side then gets trapped causing the roll to bind and stop the AMS halfway through a roll. I sometimes re-roll a filament onto an old drum as some filaments are on a narrower but deeper drum and wont go in the AMS fouling the feed tube instead of turning. Also I have my Bambu lab on a desk, in a kitchen cabinet turned upside down with the draw in the bottom. You have to make the cabinet a bit deeper. The poop falls behind the draw and i pull the draw out every week or so and collect it. By putting the printer in a cabinet it allows me to use a fan on the top to vent out any nasty fumes, keeps it almost silent and gives me a draw to hold my junk in. The AMS is on the top (or bottom depending how you look at it) and feeds through a 4/5mm hole. I also dropped one of those magnetic sewing machine led lights (Ebay 30 LED Flexible Bright Sewing Machine Light Working Gooseneck Lamp Magnetic Base) on top of the glass inside the cabinet so i can see inside better.
What about default bambu labs spool too big with inner core? I do the tape method but Esun cardboard ePLA-SS filament mainly. Is there a way to scale or adjust ? I used my digital caliper to measure the core ( from the inner and outer) outer core 59.2 inner 53.1 mm . The width of the spool is 61.4mm. I have found some spools that fit the core but the width of the spool is larger so after I remove the tape filament is loose.
So you're saying the resuable spool is wider than the esun cardboard spool right? So it causes the filament to be loose when you transfer it? hmm I haven't used Esun yet. Would you be able to print a spacer or leave one side of the carboard in place to keep it tight?
I tried 2 spools of Elegoo, black and white, and they are hot garbage. Try Duramic3D, Eryone, and eSun. i had nothing but constant adhesion issues and random mid-print failures for no explainable reason, when other filaments would breeze right thru it... Got the pics to prove it too. Also, warped cardboard spools. Would run in the AMS without edge-protectors/adapters, but would be so wobbly that it'd jam itself in the first-stage feeder. If i had the adapters on, it would lock up inside the AMS due to the warping and hitting the top cover, from being too tall with the adapter on.
@@CarlexDIY It's some pretty high quality stuff for the price. dryer out of the box than polymaker ASA for sure. I almost exclusively use ASA at this point because of it's strength and low viscosity. It's probably the best brand for the price if you don't care about the smell.
@@theredstormer8078 I'll have to try it out. I haven't done ABS/ASA yet. I just ordered some Bambu ABS to check it out . I do like Elegoo other filaments so I will be giving that ASA a shot next. Thanks
@@CarlexDIY no problem! I've also heard that ASA can get a little messy because of that low viscosity so just make sure your nozzle is good and tight if it's the threaded in type. If it's one of bambu's weird cartridge looking ones then it should be good to go.
There is nothing wrong with that method. It just takes more time to print the retainers clips. To me, it's more work using Bambu method and more chances of bubbles with the big squeegee. But all your preferences.
so will these eventually stop transfering the patterns over time, especially with the glitter I just figured it takes some of it off each use but I could be wrong
Its a pattern that reflects light to make what you see so its not transferring anything its just the plastic melts into the pattern. same as the bumpy look with the textured PEI sheets, Just much smaller. should last until something damages that pattern.
@@shanold7681 oh thats cool thanks for the information I was thinking of printing some of those 3d art panels since they cost about 100 bucks for 12 here and with the diamond pattern I would just make flat panels with some texture to make it pop
It does start to fade/wear out over time if you always print in the same spot. It's recommended to move your prints around to avoid wearing it out. Also, it's best to let it cool down before you remove print, it could damage the surface if you yank the print off.
Hello, apart from being used for Bambu, I can also see that it can allow the spools to unwind better even outside AMS, so where can we find the stl files for these PLA sides please?
That's what I was about to mention. Bent cardboard spools do happen. Also using them in the AMS lite that you have to stick them into the spool holder. The inner part of the cardboard spools starts wearing out and falls out.
@@yeabutwecouldbefreer bends them? All of my Elegoo spools have been in individual boxes that then have shipped in a larger box with bubble packaging whenever I have ordered from Amazon or when I have ordered from Elegoo themselves
@@DanielChaves1984 I get a vacuum packed cardboard spool or 2 in a way too big huge Amazon box with 1 small sheet of packing paper here in Phoenix. Bends in them every time. But I try to order in multiples of 4 now so they ship it in the original elegoo box. I also order 10pks directly from elegoo to get mostly bend free spools.
Did you have issues with your Elegoo filament spools in your AMS? I have gone through almost 4 cardboard Elegoo spools of PETG without issue even with two of the spools having slightly bent edges. It was my first time testing out cardboard spools in my AMS, using PETG, and using Elegoo filament. So far I'm happy I took the risk of ordering 10 spools from Elegoo for the discount for my first try with their filament.
I had issues with it in my AMS lite as the inner part of the spool started cracking from being inserted too many times. It was not holding anymore and would fall out. And in the regular AMS, I had one that was crooked and used the printed rail covers and still came off. So Now I just don't even deal with it.
@@DragonLee07 Print several without any issues, but then it started and is present permanently. May some parts in the AMS worm out over time With the spoolswitch everything seems to work again (print still running atm)
Just got mine a few days ago and right out of the box exact same issue. Especially with pesticides that increase the viscosity of the fluid. I tried removing the filter and it really throws the fluid but with much less atomization. Would you did looks more like a happy medium.
Yes, I noticed after i did a few too many holes. it squirting and not what I wanted ,so I glued a few of them shut. Are you able to add the filter back?
@@CarlexDIY Mine was squirting even before I cut a few slits with just water. I did two on opposite sides of the filter. Definitely helped. But it still seems intermittent at the half tank level and I really don’t like how it needs to be kept level or tilted up. Most of the plants I want to fog are low to the ground so I need to tilt down. I like the idea and convenience of a battery powered fogger for garden use. Also how light weight it is. But for now it needs to work at least a little better than it does.
My ring quit to work an hour ago, so forget my post from earlier this morning, sorry. Will try the spool-switch now //done the switch within a minute, forget everything I said before, thats the way to go
The one I purchased comes with a blank smooth plate to put one sheet on each side. If you buy the individual sheets, you can use a any smooth plate. Just remove the used sheet off it. I wouldn't put in texture cause that probably wouldn't stick well and ruin the 3d effect.
AMS gears don’t play well with cardboard after many uses. It puts unnecessary wear and tear on it. Bambu provides these rolls to help the environment and money on their end.
Great tutorial there - thanks a lot. I recently ordered my set and it finally arrived today, going to go about sorting this out this weekend, and this video definitely helped.
Seems like aggravation. Would it not be possible for the AMS to be improved to make it more compatible with different spool designs? Sounds like a design flaw. (Disclaimer: I’ve never used any Bambu printers)
Not a design flaw; the AMS is designed to work primarily with bambu filament. Bambu's own filament has an RFID tag that the AMS reads that automatically inputs the color and type. It's only an aggravation if you have to do it for every roll of filament. And cardboard spools will work with the AMS, you just have to make sure to clean out any cardboard dust in the AMS that comes off the rolls from use. Other brands of filament with plastic spools work fine as long as they're not too wide.
you can use cardboard spools in the AMS however Bambu says there can be cardboard particals created from the spool rotating/slowly breaking which can cause the machine to breakdown. I usually clean the AMS before a spool change though
It's not really an aggravation for me. It takes me less than 1 minute to switch out the spools to reusable and I don't have to worry about bent cardboard rails or extra dust cleaning. I have seen that someone made a printable modified AMS replacements that's supposed to help with this and allows for wider spools, but I don't have a need for it.
@@anthonylong5870 What flaws? And which printers? I have two A1s and two A1 minis and both have been reliable workhorses. I realize no printer is perfect, but bambu does most things right when it comes to their printers. They wouldn't have the following they do if they had creality reliability...
You can tuck the end piece in the little slot in the cardboard and lock it between the spool when you close it. Not too much or it could get stuck and AMS won't be able to break it free. So far I haven't had any issues leaving it free and it actually just rolls of easier when not tucked in. The AMS doesn't struggle to break it loose. But I can see how it might be an issue if there is only a little amount left and tries to rewind it.
This is amazing, I had heard about people doing this before, but I never knew how to do it. Thank you. Do you happen to know what other brand spools also fit?
I've been able to switch Elegoo, Polymaker, and Overture carboard spools to the reusable spool without a problem. There might be others but I haven't used or confirmed if they work.
@@CarlexDIY Of course it sucks, but you just need another reusable spool, not a bambulab one. The core of Jayo spools has a few mm less inner diameter, so the bambulab spools do not fit inside. The Prusa spools use a bigger cardbox core, so they do not fit either. But as we obviously have a 3d printer, we could always design our own reusable spool ;-) One point: On my Prusa mk3/mk4 the filament runout sensor is inside the printhead. There is a problem with unloading the filament, if it had run out, if the filament has a kink at the end. In your video you actually removed the kink while transfering the spool. That solves this problem with mk3/mk4 as a nice side effect...
Yes, using glue does take away the effect. From my experience, you shouldn't need the glue stick if your plates are clean enough. I use 90% alcohol and always make sure my first layer sticks well. Smooth plates can be a little finicky sometimes.
I was able to put 4 sheets on perfectly using this tape method. I held the plate up vertically and lined up the sheet at the bottom and sides and put the tape on. Used IPA to clean the metal sheet and back of the adhesive sheet liner. Using a credit card to gently push the sheet over the metal plate flat on the table, worked fantastic. Thanks for saving me a lot of time and energy.
I recommend starting small and test, then add more as needed. If the slit/hole you make is too big then you'll just get a big squirt and it wont really mist well.
So, the obvious question. Did it crawl better? I put 50g in each of my stock wheels and tyres on my ascent fusion. The advantage was minimal, you could even say the front wasted to flip slightly easier on super steep climbs. The difference was only slight. I think sticky rubber tyres and the right inserts would be more of a benefit??🤷♂️
For me it crawls better with the weight. I feel that it rolls over less with the tire weights but when it does roll over, it's a harder fall. Yeah, I agree that stickier rubber will give you a better benefit. This is cheaper alternative to adding axle weight and you can mod it to your needs.
