Based in the United States, uDecor manufactures and distributes architectural decor in North America. From helpful tips and installation videos to amazing decor products, we try to be as helpful as possible for our visitors and customers.
I have a 135 degree inside angle with a crown with a step in the bottom for mounting on top of kitchen cabinets. I am having trouble with this profile in the miter saw. Can I send a pic to you for advice on how to cut?? Peter
I’ve been watching videos about crown molding and this one was the one passed over, but I was wrong for that. This is the easiest most effective method great job gay
The fact that a fire safety rating "gauges how a material will react when exposed to fire," and that A is the best, is pretty obvious, and doesn't really teach me (or I suspect anyone) anything new. I want to know how the test was conducted, and what measures they use to determine a rating. I'd _really_ like to see you test the panels on video, and do a comparison to drywall or other potential competitors.
Ive watch a dozen videos on cutting crown. This one explains it the best. Even if some people think its dangerous, it helps explain how to figure out what the hell youre doing. Thank you
Hello, carpenter here. It is dangerous to cut that way, but with foam? I would make a jig out of 3x4 or whatever to get the angle. It might not be too shady being foam. And great video, he explains the process very well, of course there is 9 ways to skin a cat. He was simply saying a laser level in a perfect world. In the trades, we know that isn’t usually the case unless we make it that way, lol. Anyhow thank you for the video, i think u explained everything perfectly. Well done
Absolutely love this video. I didn't have to use the compound feature to get the angle you show so easily!!! Can u show how to do a crown molding return?
Your inside coped corner is unacceptable and you need to explain to first-timers that you have to file the back until you get a perfect fit. Futhermmore, it's helpful to take a pen and trace the line where the paint touches the wood on the bevel that you cut back. Finally, a hand saw?!? Surely, you jest. For large complex cornice molding, a coping saw is the proper tool so you can cut accurately easily, and angle the saw as you cut through the sharp angles and curves. Furthermore, with a hand saw, you can't get enough of an angle to slant the saw because the blade is too wide, so you end up filing off more wood. I think it's important not to make coped joints look easy, because it takes practice to make a good cope. A half-round file is a must-have and a round file is also useful. 60 - 80 grade sandpaper. A common mistake that first-timers make is coping to close to the paint edge on the bevel that you're cutting back. I use a thin black felt marker to trace the line, cut away the wood on the bevel just below the line, and then file the back if necessary. This way, you don't cut too close and damage the trim. Big crown molding with an ornate face will chip or splinter when you get the small tight 90 degree points and if it has small curves, same thing. Finally, why would you recommend an inside mitre without making a Japanese joint or another type of joint to keep the wood together? People need to understand that coping inside joints is better because if you live in a place where there are severe changes in temperatures as the seasons change from winter to spring or summer to fall, the wood can shrink a tiny bit. If the inside corner is mitred, then you have a crack. But coped joints have wood behind them, so you will never see a crack. I like your videos and find very useful information: It's great that you take your time to make videos that are straight and to the point. However, I really think it would be beneficial to explain a little more about coped inside corners. If folks want to make an inside mitre joint, then they need to be aware of the problems with wood shrinking (or expanding) if there are seasonal changes that affect humidity and temperature in places like Michigan or Finland.
I have a question. I have a mitter saw that can do both 45 degrees cut right and left. Do I still need to put the flat moulding upside down? And why you put the piece upside down?
@@gregm7976 yeah I did. Long story short, I just grabbed a scrap piece, scribed and cut into it until it fit. I then used this as a template. Worked well
@@mski349 I just finished figuring it out using a crown molding angle table guide from a book I had. The miter angle was 56.1 degrees (I had to make a jig to get that angle) and the bevel was set to 46.7 degrees. It came out perfect!
