Awesome job explaining how the governor is set up on this engines , I have the fh580v ,and was trying to figure out why is was idling so high ,good job and thank you
I had done the '7 flash reset' so many times I can't remember but when I first saw 5 and looked it up I was so worried I was gonna have to overpay some stupid repair guy to replace that gas water heater thermos, THANKS!!!
Some stupid repair guy? Hahahahahaha you’re mad you’re not handy and your wife will call a repair guy and will get done by them in your own bed while you’re at your job
I just checked the oil in mine at 120 hours and it still looked brand new. I think the key for longevity in these things other than fluid changes is to keep the casing clean so it cools properly. Also you can change the oil in these without removing them from the machine by using a fluid pump. Simply unscrew the vent tube and feed the pump tube all the way to the bottom and pump the old fluid out then pump new fluid in. It's a pretty fast procedure and doesn't take very long.
From whirlpool’s website “If "Door" or "Open/Close" is appearing on the microwave display, there are things you can do to troubleshoot. If a message about the door appears in the display, the door has been closed for 5 minutes or more without the microwave oven being started. This occurs to avoid unintended starting of the microwave oven. Open and close the door, then begin the cycle.”
I can't count how many reseal jobs and crankcase filter delete kits I have put on them leaky mfers. If you don't install the crankcase filter delete kit don't bother resealing it, it will just push oil out. OEM gaskets can't take heat so they get crispy quick so the least lil backfire or mounting bolts lighty loosen the sump gasket is garbage. Most of the time the gasket will leak between oil cooler and head in that little section and run down to your oil drain and make it look like your oil drain is leaking or the oil cooler. Scags with the Advantage decks that stay clogged are hard on them and frankly hard on anything, the deck is just trash and barely can maintain short grass no matter the blade gimmick you put on it. Am I forgetting anything?, oh yeah Fck that pos Mfer! 😮❤
It depends how they are taken care of. If the hydros are kept clean and the oil gets changed every other season I have seen over 10 years. If they get caked with dirt and overheat and get water in the oil they can blow up pretty quick. My EZT (2100's) light duty hydros are 8-9 years old now.
@@chrisb3784 Hydro gear says 1st oil change at 75 hours and every 400hrs after that. But I would also add that you should change it no later than 4 years because of condensation. I normally remove, drain, fill the small hydros since many don't have a drain port.
@@fivepointeightnate you can use a fluid pump too and not have to remove them. That's what I do on my 2200 you just unscrew the vent tube and feed the pump tube down to the bottom and pump out. Then fill to within 1 inch of the bottom of the fill hole. I use a home made dip stick I made out of a zip tie to see what the fluid levels are at. Fluid change takes about 15-20 mins per hydro
@@Evanx373 The very bottom is the most important to get cleaned out. The EZT / 2200 don't have a replaceable filters like the larger units and that's why I take the cover off and completely clean them out.
Same issue. 5 blinking lights, sleepless night, hours of video watching into skill territory beyond me. This morning, while waiting for a Sunday emergency plumber to call me back (imagine the cost there) and twice the price of the part ($400), I by chance saw this video. Easy. Quick. It's been an hour and I have hot water again. How to thank you?
I just did this and it worked great! We'll eventually need a new one, but this seems to have bought us some time! Thank you for the short and sweet video!
On a Briggs motor, the camshaft hooks into the oil pump. How does this Kawasaki hook up to it? I see the area in which is goes but I can't remember if the camshaft hooks into it or not? I was hoping to see this on your video? Mine is a FR691V, which is basically the same on the internals.
My friend and I plan on modding out his 2002 Automatic G20, but we're on a tight budget. Everything is OEM, plus it has like 200k miles. If you don't mind me asking how much did you put into the car? It sounds amazing and that's something we really wanna achieve, a nice sounding and smooth running G20. Only issue we're worried about is the mileage plus the cost.
I probably spent a couple thousand on it. But we did all the work. There is nothing wrong with a 200k mile car, I would suggest freshening up the engine and trans if you are planning to turbo it though.
We got 5 flashes error too. By following your steps, it has 1 flash when burner burns. When burner stop burning, 5 flashes come back. Any idea how to fix it? Thx
These engines are fun. To do rod bearings you have to split the crankcase in half. Which is really fun when it’s back in the car and leaks. Meaning you have to take the entire engine out to re seal it.
I think the switch that will work for all three is an Omron D3V-16G-1C25 ... I don't know if this is what Mr LeMarbe used ... perhaps he will answer up?
Noticed your high speed on the tach was 3420 rpm. What is spec for the Kawasaki engines? I’m thinking of playing with my governor to get it up to 3600. Or would that be stupid?
