I got a 1950 C11 with rigid rear. My tank is all black, but I think your's is a new chrome/green one from India. Mine has a faulty transistor regulator, which is giving too much charge to the battery. So am repairing that this week. Does your's have the 20 inch wheels, the tyres are getting to be rare and expensive these days.
you are correct with the tank, ( which I havent had any issues with) and the wheels are 20 inch which it came out with along with a 4sp gear box. Im sure you will get yours sorted and have great fun riding it.
I know that things have to settle down with a rebuild, but the Carburettor settings are way out. It should tick over at easily half that speed, and after opening the throttle, then closing it- it should die down very quickly, but it's not in its current setting.
Thanks for this video. My Cole Clark is a full blackwood model and I haven't put the pick guard on just yet being unsure. Mostly because the black pickguard that came with mine looks cheap. The timber on it's it own looks really nice but I hadn't considered the change in sound so I have decided to keep my pickguard off. Cheers.
Hi Fantastic video i am thinking of buying one to ride to work in the warmer weather are they any good on the highway i live 15 ks from work what a rough price for a restored one. Thank you
Thank you. Speed will depend on rider weight and the gear box. 3 or 4 speed. My father is approx 80kg and can sit on 80kph with a 4sp box. Cost will also depend on the quality on the restore. Hope this helps.
@@davidburke9427 Thank you very much yes it has the 4-speed gearbox the model is BSA C11G 1955 my neighbour has a restored one in excellent condition he wants $7000
Makes me nostalgic. I got a BSA 250 side valve with distributor and she runs like a dream. Silent as ever on low revs. The 250's were very reliable bikes. Great job.
Great video, I've just started stripping a 1958 D5 down and I'm stuck trying to remove the the forks (hence watching you video here). I think I noticed in the video, on the top of the forks do you have 2 nuts? A larger one which screws to the fork outer tube and a smaller one holding the top of the spring? If so that might be where I've gone wrong as I have what must be corroded dust caps on larger nut hiding a smaller nut below.
Hi Ed. Glad it may help. Yes, the large one goes into the top of the outer and prevents the spring from coming up and through. The small one threads into a holder in the top of the springs preventing the from dropping out the bottom. Like the small nut on but to the top of the thread ( do you don’t damage the thread) give it a gentle knock downwards and see if the frees it up. Does your forks go up and down in a normal motion ? If not, the lower station may be ceased to the bushes.
@@davidburke9427 That's great thank you for the reply. I didn't realise there was a nut hiding under that cap on my bike, mystery solved. Apart from that the forks travel normally, no play or ceased elements that I'm aware of yet. Good tip on removing the grease nipples first too I definitely don't want to shear them off.
What year is your D5? Have you got service sheets and parts manual for it? There is some good Facebook groups for bantams as well. Where are you located ? This is a global group. Great for questions and info. facebook.com/groups/21878572579/?ref=share
I just looked on the Draganfly web site, yes you do have the 2 smaller nuts under the covers. www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/bsa/bsa/bantam/d5/category/571-forks
Just a couple of questions if you've got the time mate.Re building some forks myself and there's a piece of rubber pipe in each spring,in the spares diagram listed as a shock absorber.In your experience does it really need to be fitted, are there any benefits?Secondly are the fork sliders(the bit that goes up and down) available in Oz because here in the uk they are unobtanium
Draganfly in the UK have repro sliders in stainless steel which, although not cheap, appear to be good quality. Avoid the Indian made repro ones, the chrome on them is decorative, not "hard", and peels off ruining your bushes in double-quick time. The rubber damper is a later improvement and is of debatable use. Be wary of over-greasing these. They only need to have a liberal amount around the bush area, and an occasional pump to top up. Too much grease can cause them to lock up, and the amount packed around the springs you took out is probably why you had them jamming on full bump.
@@knackeredrovers thanks for taking the time to reply,I have indeed contacted Draganfly about some sliders,currently out of stock but have some on back order,gent on the phone very helpful but says they could take a while so it's a waiting game
Yes mate ,this video sure did help a lot because I’m thinking to do the same thing with nitrocellulose and I know it’s flammable so I like your approach to not using any heat and oil was a nice touch to.
HI, I purchased the seat some 25yrs ago. On the bottom its has stamped on it "Made by Bar Enterprise, California USA" . If you look for Bobber or chopper seats, you should find something.