I have just been working on a 1965 2CV which had not run for over 25 years. The fuel tank and sender unit appears very similar to your Ami's. I could not get any petrol to be drawn up to the carburettor. I drained the tank, (the stink of old petrol is very pungent and seemed to hang around me for several days) and after dropping the tank and taking out the sender unit/pick-up pipe I found the strainer on the bottom of the pipe completely blocked with fuel residue.The cork float on the fuel gauge had rotted & disappeared ! It's worth checking yours; you can get the sender unit out through the hole in the floor without dropping the tank but if it's anything like mine you'll need to do a thorough internal clean of the tank.
Thanks for the tip. I did replace the original Ami fuel tank, which was completely rotten, with a late 2V tank. I flushed out the replacement tank with fresh fuel. I have also blown through both ends of the fuel pipe with an air line and it seemed quite clean.
What is the connection with the flexible brake hose to the master cylinder? If it is a copper washer, is it new or was it the old, if the old annealing this will make it soft and it will seal when crushed. If it goes into a flare, is this in good condition? There are two types of fuel pump, push or pull, need the right one for this to work properly. Frustrating, we have all been there, a step back & a break makes all the difference, shame you did not get what you wanted from the Ami. I like your Scootacar - one sold for very silly money recently and wasn't even a good one, not as nice as yours!
Hi most were trailered, including mine. I don't quite have the stamina for a 100 mile journey from the midlands to Somerset, although some braver souls might.
Hi, that sounds like good advice- might try repositioning the fuel pump, as you suggest. There were no specific instructions with the pump, so I (perhaps wrongly) assumed it was front mounted. I notice your name, by the way, saw a lovely Austin Swallow in the transport museum yesterday, in blue and white.
Is the fuel pump correct - i.e. is it a pull type, which would be correct for its position, or a push type, in which case, it is never going to work properly unless it is down by the fuel tank outlet. Good luck with selling the Ami!
I had my original one back in the late 1980's, replaced it about 10 years ago as it just wore out, brilliant bit of kit! Those lids for the Scootacar were commonly used and I think my original kit had one. Guess they updated the kit to reflect the commonest cars still in use. The adapter kit for a Morris Minor was a nightmare, impossible to get a seal - poor design and I gave up and got a master cylinder cap blank and drilled a hole to make the pipe connection as you said. Made in England too, as were many of the original Gunsons products!
Hi there, yes I had thought of uprating it a little. However, a non standard engine would affect thr car's value as it would then be non original. There would be other things to sort out, like the brakes, which aren't great.
Hi yes that is interesting. I'm not familiar with the Ami 8 and assumed the 8 was a more updated/ restyled version of the 6. I'm sure they are still mechanically very similar, as I did change a set of points on a 2CV years ago and the set up was the same, albeit with a different bodyshell.
@peakfreans68 It's got lovely looking lines to the bodywork . Ever thought of increasing the power a little, or is it frightening enough with just the 8hp ?
Hi, the outer wings are held in place by a single bolt/screw at the front near the headlamps. Also there is a bolt near the front bumper edge whivh connects the inner and outer wing together. A further M7 screw joins the outer wing near the scuttle area. Another bolt connects the outer wing to the front part of the door aperture. The inner wing is held in several places mainly by m7 screws, sonr along the top of the bulkhead, some along the front chassis rail . I'm probably making it sound more complicated than it really is but it's not too bad of a job and with the Ami being quite a flimsy sort of car, if you loosen most of the outer wing bolts, you can remove the inner. With the front wheel removed, the inner wing can be removed under the wheel arch.
I had a Scootacar mk3, with a non-standard 11E engine, back in the early1980s. I had loads of spares, including four spare suspension castings. On two of the four, the bit that was supposed to connect to the steering linkage was broken off. I hoped that this didn't mean that the ones on the car were likely to break at any moment! I only had two breakdowns, both close to home. The first was when the crankcase drain plug fell out. Fortunately, I found it! The second happened when I was reversing. The chain (which vibrated from side-to-side) touched the chainguard. The split pin was pushed off, resulting in the chain ending up on the road. After that, I avoided using reverse. I'm not including the dozens of times I had to clean whiskers from the Lodge HH14 spark plug!
Well done, you are getting there! I always think that the designer(s) of the car should be made to service and repair the car as part of their design brief and if they saw how hard it was to undertake basic tasks they might re-design so it is more user-friendly. Failing that, have a rogue's gallery of the designers with their phone numbers so customers could ring them up to complain! Shame about the wheel cylinder, always sell it back on eBay. Thanks for sharing!
My Bond MK1 Registration number CCB125 was a 1948 Bond Minicar -- I had it back in circa 1976 it went to a member of the Bond Owners Club at that time -- any info of were it is today - thank you in advance . Doug - Ps I have 2 photos of how I found it .
Excuse me sir, but halfway through the video you seem to be driving down the middle of the street with two lines of traffic going in the opposite directions on either side. Could this be possible? That's even scarier than driving the micro car
Looking at it again, there are several cars parked along the kerb, many facing the opposite direction and some parked in a lay-by, giving the impression they are travelling towards me.
I had a similar problem many years ago with a Mini, I could not pull the driveshaft out. Turned out there was a groove with a spring clip, and all it needed was a sharp tap to disengage the clip and viola the drive shaft pulled out, the other side was then easy! It could be that your car has a similar arrangement - it did not need any effort, just technique. If you have access to a parts book it may show what is actually there. Good luck.
Thanks for this. I can't see any other retaining clips or means of holding the driveshaft in and the Haynes manual gives very little detail. I think the next step is to buy a longer crow bar .😊
My late father, Terry had this model and a later model and a reliant from 1956 'till about 1961. He bought them from the dealer where he worked Saturdays; Pride & Clarke, South London.
