Unfortunately no, different laws in Europe means they cannot share frequencies. Wow, I made this video 10 years ago... nice to see that people are still using them!
@@JerryPH that’s what I was thinking. So i was given a Nikon kit where 1 flash is on a Mini TT1 on the EU 433.42mhz & he said he used it with our US 340mhz I took then to America with me. Oops
I never knew that about coin batteries. I’m wondering if that’s why when I get my battery changed at the jewelry shop it doesn’t last but maybe 11 months???🤷🏻♂️
This is a trick used by many a good jeweller and I have seen big differences doing it both ways in the past. Today I just get the unit powered by the camera battery and don't bother with coin operated batteries anymore. Thanks for posting!
@@JerryPH i most certainly intend to view them tonight. Most helpful as i was struggling to get mine to speak to each other. However, after watching your video they are now marrying up. Thank you
Hi there, thanks for reaching out! This video is now 7 years old, and I've always been a Nikon kinda guy... so unfortunately, I cannot tell you. A call to the manufacturer will definitely be able to help you out, though!
Please help I have two TT5 and a TT1 I proceed according to pocketwizard manual, they synchronize but suddenly they stop synchronizing (TT1 with the TT5 already update but they continue the same thing I can do thanks) I will be very grateful
First off, thanks for reaching out Arnoldo... I've done weddings where I had the systems set up over several days without sync loss. If you are using approved cameras and lenses, I'd suggest you contact the Pocket Wizard company directly for support, as this sounds like a potential hardware issue.
Hi Jerry, I'm a little late to this game. I've only had the Flex pocket wizards for a couple years and I just acquired the AC3 this past Fall but didn't have time to figure out how to use it. I watched a couple short videos that seemed to explain it but it wasn’t working for me. Your explanations are very explanatory and I appreciate that these videos are still out here, so THANK YOU! But I do have one problem.. When you explain using the AC3 as the commander, you don't mention or show the flash unit itself. Is there something I'm missing? I turn on the SB910, I set the flash to manual 1/1 power, I set group A on the AC3 to M and the dial does not adjust my flash power at all... The off works. The TTL seems to work but I tend to like to shoot in manual so what is my flash screen supposed to look like or be set on so that I may adjust from the AC3 on Manual. I turn the flash It ON. Should I turn the power to maybe 1/16? that way I can go up or down with the dials? I just don't get why manual doesn't work but off and A do. Please help!! :) Thanks!
It's been over 6 years that I last posted a video here, and I am truly honored that people still find value here. Thanks so much for reaching out. The answer to your question is very simple... turn on your flash, set the group it "listens to" and LEAVE IT IN TTL mode. You control the mode via the AC3. IE: If the flash is in TTL and the flex under it is set to Group A, look back at the Group A section the AC3. If you choose "0" (zero), the flash is turned off. If set to "M" it is then in manual mode. Set the switch on the AC3 to "A", set the dial to 0 and it's full TTL. Rotate the dial to reduce or increase brightness by 1/3rds. Enjoy!
@@JerryPH Hi Jerry! Thank you so much for responding so quickly. Yes, I got my first DSLR, NikonD300 back in 2008 and I have all Nikon equipment and pocket wizards.. I know the big new buzz today is the Godox but I just don't feel like I want to make that leap just yet. I mostly shoot seniors and families and dancers. Dancers are my favorite subjects. I'll second shoot a wedding but I don't like being solely responsible for the work. I'm a full time ICU RN for 17yrs and photography is my passion for the last 20 yrs so I only get to do this very part time. You can imagine in the world today why I might want to jump that ship and make photography my full time job. It's rough out there. So, pertaining back to my question... what I'm hearing is leave the flash on TTL, the AC3 on A and just shoot in that mode. I understand what all the settings mean, I just guess I was expecting the flash unit to reflect the changes in stops on the flash screen when you adjusted the AC3 on manual but that clearly does not happen. So why even put M on the AC3 when TTL does the job?
@@CheetahBonita Don't worry about the hype, and Godox is not 100% compatible with the ControlTL units, so you are doing well sticking to OEM Nikon flashes. About TTL vs manual... it's all about control. I am a 95% manual shooter even with the ControlTL units. TTL is nice but it was designed by some Nikon engineer who had NO idea of what I wanted from my photography, so, it was rare that I ever came off manual settings. I also think you may be confusing design with functionality. Leaving the flashes in TTL does NOT mean that you are only shooting in TTL. You are ONLY in TTL if the AC3 is in AUTO and in manual when you are in M on the AC3. When in A mode (TTL), you set the dial to 0 for 0 compensation and then each click changes the flash power by 1/3rd of a stop either up or down depending on which way you turn the dial. I shot about 400 weddings in my brief career, and left right when every 15-year old with $500 went to Best buy and bought a camera and instantly became a "pro wedding photographer" (and weddings are without doubt THE hardest and most challenging form of photography ANYWHERE, I routinely lost 5-11 pounds of weight in per day at my 15-18 hour weddings. I think I clocked it at something equivalent to 600 lunges, 20-30 pushups and between 10-15 kilometers or walking/running per day at my weddings!). The industry was falling, and people preferred to place more money in their wedding cakes than they did in the saved precious memories of their most special day. I still do weddings, but very rarely and only for pleasure, I make a lot more money easier and with less stress elsewhere. I am also at the age where I enjoy people paying me for what is in my head more so than my muscles... lol Honestly, I could write a book on the topic, but then again, there are those 20-year olds that have already done that, and I don't mind giving them center stage... lol Want to improve your photography? Learn to control your lighting, and not let it control you... start off at www.strobist.com and also mentor with the BEST wedding photographer in your region. I mentored for 1 year when I started, working pretty much for free, started by carrying his bags and doing the lighting and moved up to a 2nd shooter and finally he started to double book weddings, him doing one and me the others... that is when I moved on and opened my own shop. There are 4 videos in this series... if you haven't seen them all, you should! :) Good luck!
@@jerryhomolka412 Once again thank you for your feedback... I do love my Nikon flashes but I do find sometimes I need more power depending on what I'm trying to achieve. When I began taking classes to learn about my camera and photography in general I started in manual only. It's the only mode I use on my DSLR and my flashes.. I like 100% control. I understand the technology of TTL probably only to a small degree but all I need to know about that is it is not consistent. Nuff said. All that you just explained about being a wedding photographer is exactly what I would expect which is why I choose not to do it. I started photography at 35 and I'm currently 47. Nursing has taken a toll on my body.. no way could I endure that kind of activity. I'm good after a 2hr senior session. Do. you do any other type of photography? You definitely have a lot of knowledge to share and you really are a gifted teacher. I was able to follow your clear and precise instructions very well and understand them. It's so hard to find an instructor that takes the time to lay it all out the way you have in these videos and care to take the time to respond to your audience. Again, thank you for that. I appreciate your help. Take care and stay well!
@@CheetahBonita I started in photography when I was 10-11, my father was a patient and good teacher. I fell in love with wedding photography because it was basically a passport in to the day of a couple's happiest day, and I moved out because I became tired of people wanting 6000 pictures and 15 hours of work for $200... lol I still do weddings, but they are way fewer and for friends or young couples that are sincerely very low income, so I do it for the love of the event and I do it for free. I have other passions in life that fill in the free time that are equally fun and I still have all my equipment and do some very specific sporting events and I've always loved portraiture. I do several yearly events for various organizations that involve portraits. At heart, I've always been an educator (I was a professional IT instructor for 35+ years) and this too was one of my passions, the sharing of information on topics I am passionate about in a clear, effective manner. I am also a musician and came back to music after a near 40 year hiatus, and am sharing that passion a little bit there. Videography has become a recent hobby and melds very well with my music hobby, that's mostly where I am today. :) As an ICU RN you are in some very tough and serious situations, I'd like to personally thank-you for your sacrifice in that area. Please take care of yourself, and I wish you all the best. If you have anything else I can help you with just email me (jerryph at gmail dot com), if I can help, it would be my pleasure.
I tried this with a D850, an SB-910, a P. C. Buff Einstein, and two PocketWizard Plus III, and it generally worked. The top half of the image is always a couple stops darker than the bottom half though.
The answer is the flash.. the Einsteins are very quick in terms of flash duration, mine has to be the slowest flash on the market, hence why they can completely fill the frame. Its a combination of equipment!
hey jerry, please if u could help me, i bought a Sekonic L358, im using with my nikon setup, but today i bought the RT-32CTL module to put in my L358. As I live in Brasil, it will arrive here next week, so the doubt is, the flash meter now can trigger the Sb 700 or the other flashs ?
I come back to your video every time I come to set up the flash and I haven't done it for a while and Ive forgotten. Thank you. Nobody else explains so clearly and methodicaly.
Thanks instructable video. But you did not mentiones what is on your hotshoe before you put the ACE on. Would be fin if you talked a little about the SU-800 Nikon. Thanks
Thank-you for your comments. :) When I use the AC3, the only thing that is in my hotshoe is the TT1 or TT5. As far as the SU-800 is concerned, I am not a big fan of it because basically it can only make adjustments 1 full stop at a time vs the 1/3rd stop range of any of the other controllers like the SB-800, SB-900 and MiniTT1. Also, I find the SU-800 way over priced, as for a few bucks more you get a better controller and a fill flash with the SB-800-900's. Besides, the entire concept behind the PWs is to find a better wireless solution. Where the SU-800 is pretty much line of sight, I can shoot around corners and through brick and steel walls or rows and rows of people, something that the SU=800 was always less capable with accomplishing. Again, thank-you for taking the time to comment, I do appreciate it!
Hi Jerry Awesome info once again. I am using Canon. How do we switch from hi speed sync to hyper sync? Thank you so much for this valuable information.
I am no a Canon user, and I have not revisited this in several years, however, it is done the same way as with the Nikon units (using lights from the approved lists, using ControlTL units, etc..). That said, traditionally, Canon units just never seemed to work as well as the Nikon units with HyperSync. I believe it has to do with shutter design more than anything else.
Hello ... I know this is an older video but I've been watching these series and have this exact set up .... I can't see to make the flashes go off ? What am I missing ?? you don't have to set the camera to anything do you ??
When you say "this exact setup" what do you mean? I have several setups in the videos, so to which exact setup do you refer to? As to camera settings, I believe that in video #1, I discuss the needed camera settings such as 1/250 FP. Also, are you using the correct turn on order for everything? That is very important!
candace fast, Jerry explained them very well. Have you got your system up and working now? If not, please provide more details because we are not you and have not seen your setup /or hookup.
The D800 has no Ethernet port, it cannot do it. Does the D850 have an Ethernet port or integrated support for the very over-priced WIFI adapter, and the integrated HTTP server like the D4/D5 have? If it does, it may be able to... if not, sorry this will not work.
Thanks Jerry, super video.Just bought the module for my L-358 and tried to set it up as per Sekonic's instructions, but couldn't get past the selecting channel stage. Pocket Wizards instructions say set the same channel on receiver as on light meter - a little obvious I thought - anyway, with receiver on channel 1 I got the flashing channel 1 on my meter. It then says press the measuring button, but nothing happens. After double checking the instructions and what I had done, I gave up with the instructions. It was then I resorted to my font of all wisdom - RU-vid and found your video - watching this I noticed that you pressed the mode button and turned the jog wheel after setting the channel - something Sekonic omitted from their instructions. Tried this, and hey presto all working fine.For the amount they charge for these modules, you would think that clearer instructions would be possible. If you ever apply for a job writing instructions for Sekonic, I'll happily give you a reference.Thanks
Hi, Thanks a lot for this video .. great resource not avail from PocketWizard. I'm using the L-358 with the RT-32N for years in manual mode (flashes), triggering is fine. Now, I bought the new RT-32CTL module to update the L-358 since I have five tt5s, the mini and the ac3 controller. What you are showing is great, but I cannot make it work !! I want to do the same thing you do, so I dont use the camera at all. I verified the tt5s (all on channel 1), and I verified also the mini (all on channel 1 as well). The L-358 on channel 1. So, that configuration is ok. Now, I want to use 2 tt5s and get the reading by pressing on the l-358 and controlling flash output from ac3. It looks like the signal sent from the l-358 goes directly to the tt5s without passing through the mini and ac3 !? If I change the setting on the ac3 from -3 to +3, no change on the light meter , same reading !! But the tt5s are fireing. I've read all the comments in this thread, so I also tried the test button on the mini to have the change done and this is triggering the tt5s. Using all this on Canon pocketwizard, firmware 6.8. I'm doing something wrong probably but I follow directly the same sequence as on your video, except for the config channel 1, already done. My problem is that the ac3 does not change the flash output .. it looks like the l-358 is directly sending the signal to the tt5 ? is that possible ? How the l-358 knows to send signal to mini only, get ac3 flash output and then send signal to tt5s and proper flash with 580exII ? Thanks I'll continue searching, because I just bought this module, and what you do is exactly the way I want to work with these toys :-)
It amazes me how soooo many people can just, at any time they want, 'buy' any new bit of camera kit that they see, even if they never use it AND it costs a fortune !!!... I busted my hump to get my gear (I LOVE my D3 & D4 :) ) - but there are a huge amount of folks, like me, who still have to use what we can, or go 'cheap'.... YOUR way of doing a lot of things, like the above,, is nothing short of excellent. You got yourself another 'subbie' - Thank you :)
Interesting series of 10.One query with No8 Sekonic Light Meter sectionYou say " the L-758DR is like the AC3 built in and can set the power from the meter"How do you get the L-758 DR to do that? I know it has the Quad groups but no way I can see that you can adjust their flash power .Thanks,
Ah, you have found the first bit of dyslexia in my video. I meant to say the L-478DR-U. That is the model with the integrated AC3. The L-758DR can trigger and read the light, the 478 can adjust the flash power via it's integrated digital screen. Apologies and thank-you for taking the time to ask (and give me a chance to set things straight!). :)
Hi, Jerry! I have a set of 3 flashes Nikon SB-900, 3 units of FlexTT5, 1 MiniTT1, AC3 Zone Controller, a Nikon D300, and a Sekonic L-358 with RT-32CTL module. With normal settings, the equipment works very well. However, I have tried for a long time without cuccess to have the flashes popping by pressing the reading button of the Sekonic. I can only make the flashes pop for Sekonic reading by pressing the test button of my MiniTT1. The only manner to have the Sekonic popping my flashes is using them in full manual mode, and making a change of FlexTT5 in Pocketwizard Utility. But then, I can not control the flashes' power with the AC3. It's quite frustrating.
Hi, Jerry! Thank you for your prompt reply! The meter seems to be working well. I was also thinking about a defective RT-32CTL. When I get back to my place later today, I'll start all settings from zero and see what happens. One thing that I've noticed is: when I set up my equipment following the steps of your video, a red light turns on behind the FlexTT5, which is a clue that it's receiving the signal from the Sekonic, but does not go through to the point of popping the flash.
Hey Costa! Without bringing out the equipment, I am going to guess that at this point it looks like you are on a ControlTL channel (light goes off), but that it could be on either the wrong group or wrong channel setting.
I mean: when I set up my equipment (just as explained so well on your video) and press the reading button on my Sekonic L-358, a red light turns on behind the FlexTT5. It's maybe a clue that there's something wrong between the FlexTT5 and the flash (maybe something that could be corrected with setting at Pocketwizard Utility)
Francois, the meter does not care if the house is white, black or purple, it is measuring the light coming out of the flash! I can assure you that if I place the flash 10 feet away from the meter, indoors, outdoors, in a yellow house in a green forest, day or night, the meter will always, always, always give me the same number! So that it is easier for you to understand why the colour does not matter, you have to understand that reflected light is NEVER as strong as the direct light for the simple matter that reflected light has to travel a longer distance. If you have studied photography a little, have read about the Inverse Square Law. If not, please take a few seconds and google it. Thanks for taking the time to comment. :)
possess PocketWizard TT1 tt5 and ACS3 there are times I need to change the sencibilidad (ISO) but I can not make the change from camera, such'm using 100 iso but I need aumetar the iso and therefore selected 800 remote units do not make changes (and speedlight are 100 and not modififcan 800 iso) and each Speedlight unit with your camera TT5 and TT1 with ACS3, thanks
The ability to trigger a remote camera does not include the ability to change remote camera settings (things like ISO, aperture and shutter speed). To do that you must set the remote camera settings manually. However if you are using TTL, the light power increases to try to compensate but there are limits, of course. Once one is at full output, it cannot go any higher.
thanks for your prompt response ..... camera is not shooting distance .... is to modify the iso to flash ..... that is my flash is ISO 100 to be mounted on my camera set up tt5 iso 350 the TT1 and AC3 control zone does not change me sensibilida ......... 350 to make a change in the camera iso does not make me the flash ... otherwise ..... I encuenta at a wedding I'm working with sensitivities of 200 but it's time I need to change my sencibilidad and 800 of sencibilidad change, to make changes in my camera the tt5 and TT1 pocketwisar AC3 does not make me change my flash sencibilidad distance .... thanks
Jerry P.H. thanks for your prompt response ..... camera is not shooting distance .... is to modify the iso to flash ..... that is my flash is ISO 100 to be mounted on my camera set up tt5 iso 350 the TT1 and AC3 control zone does not change me sensibilida ......... 350 to make a change in the camera iso does not make me the flash ... otherwise ..... I encuenta at a wedding I'm working with sensitivities of 200 but it's time I need to change my sencibilidad and 800 of sencibilidad change, to make changes in my camera the tt5 and TT1 pocketwisar AC3 does not make me change my flash sencibilidad distance .... thanks
Arnoldo, it does not need to change the ISO setting at the flash, in iTTL it adjusts the power output of the flash to give you a proper exposure irrespective of what the ISO setting is on the camera. The only time the ISO changes on the flash is when it is directly attached on the camera, and then it is not changing the ISO setting of a flash, it is showing what the ISO setting of the camera is. A flash has no ISO setting, this is a camera setting. Whatever the ISO is, the flash does not care, the power setting is set by the camera based on the iTTL pre-flashes. By the way, can you tell me what camera and what flashes you are using with your TT1, TT5 and AC3?
Jerry P.H. goodnight thanks for your prompt response sb 900 flash use and TRIO Qflash Flash for Nikon them synchronized without much problem .... by controlling the intensity Overexposure .... I look on camera I use a TT1 and PocketWizard AC3 ..and the two flash TT5 .....
Hello Jerry, I would like to know if the Pocket Wizard AC3 zonecontroller also works with the Godox ad360. I guess the FlexTT5 needs to be connected to the Godox with a cable. What cable exactly? Or do I have to put in the flash power manually? Or would it work with the new AD360 II for Canon, which has TTL, but is al lot more expensive. Until now I use my PocketWizard with Canon 580EX speedlight.
The Godox AD-360 does not "speak" Nikon, so to control it's power output, I use the FT-16 trigger/receiver. When using it alone, this is all that is needed. When using it in conjunction with other flashes, I use the TT5 to trigger it and the same FT-16 to control power output, but keep it in my pocket. It is attached via standard mono mini-phone cable to the P2 port of the FlexTT5 and the matching port on the AD-360 body. The on camera MiniTT1 triggers all my lights in sync.
I was having problems using hypersync with my Df and an SB-600. I sent an email to PW, and got a reply that included this: You are using SB-600 Speedlights. They use HSS, not HyperSync. Do not connect your MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 radios to the Utility and adjust *anything* regarding HyperSync as you will get unsatisfactory results. The factory defaults are what you need for proper HSS. HyperSync is for studio flashes.
Can you email me the name of the person that you spoke with at PW please? Use the jerry (at) jerryph (dot) com address when sharing this info, do NOT share it here. You CAN use HyperSync with the SB-600... I do it now and then when testing, however, each camera/flash combination requires different settings and gives different results. This may be a new person to whom you spoke and has limited understanding or incredible expectations about HyperSync, so nothing less than a 100% perfect frame is acceptable to them... I don't know, but I have no problems talking and exchanging info. The SB-600 is a much less powerful flash and the flash duration is quite fast, both traits that work against giving you perfect HyperSync results, but nothing that prevents you from using it! I look forward to reading your email.
Oh Montreal Guy! you know your stuff ! I have TT1 and a couple of TT5,,, since 1.5 years, use it once. But seeing your videos, its much more complex than I tough. I will do some tests base of what I've learned from you. Thanks
hi Jerry, thanks for this info. But i still not clear about your studio flash setting, are you set it to full power or every power setting will do HSS?
Based on your video, I just ordered the Godox 360II-N (goo.gl/KZhbhg). Selling off my Nikon SB-910 since it just doesn't have the HSS power I require for lifestyle fashion shoots. Godox also has the AD600 that should be amazing for HSS, it just isn't widely available in i-TTL yet on Amazon. Flashpoint has an identical unit (Adorama house brand) for $750. Both models are still sold out on Amazon. www.adorama.com/FPLFX600TBN.html The AD600 can also be used in a lighter version www.adorama.com/FPLFXP600.html I will be using the Godox X1N transmitter for HSS and wireless remote functions. Thanks again for the detailed info.
+Thorsten Ott Just keep in mind that Godox may have a great light source, but they have a long way to go with the functionality and reliability of their triggers. The kit you bought is a MANUAL setup with HSS capability, but if you upgrade to the X1 triggers, once they sort things out, then it will be a great combination. For now, as I write this post, they still have a ways to go to get reliable TTL working... that's what I hear from a few early adopters. I'd love to get a AD-360II-N to test with the PW ControlTL triggers, it would be interesting to see the results!
+Jerry P.H. The version I ordered is i-TTL & HSS, at least that is in the description/owners manual and it comes with the X1 trigger. Yes, I read all the issues on FlashHavoc, but some people say it is working with the latest firmware. Never the less, as you pointed out, I will also test it with the PW Flex TT5 & Mini TT1. HSS & Hypersync proved to be pretty much a joke on my Einstein with PW MC2 wireless. Black bars/gradations appeared at anything above 1/320, regardless of experimenting with different settings at full power. It was easier to use a 3 stop ND and just shoot at a 1/200, LOL. Will let you know how the 360II-N plays with the X1-N as well as the PW Flex TT5 & Mini TT1 system. Fingers crossed. If it doesn't work properly, then it goes back and I order the Flashpoint XPLOR 600 HSS/i_TTL from Adorama. Several people claim it works well...providing one can find it in stock.
+Thorsten Ott HyperSync and an Einstein are challenging, even with a D4 camera because of the very fast flash durations. Some flashes just don't work well with HyperSync. The AD-360 that I have does, specifically because of it's long 1/1 flash durations. Before spending the money on the X1 triggers, test out how the ControlTL units work. If they do, then you don't really need the X1 and can use TTL with the ControlTL and use a cheap FT-16 for setting manual power settings, but if it doesn't work... then I suppose one can use the X1, but you of course lose HyperSync.
+JerryPHcom Just got the Godox 360II-N and X1 Trigger for Nikon. Did a test on my D750 and everything works fabulously. HSS and i-TTL works seamlessly from 1/100 to 1/4000 @ f/4. Exposure is perfect on each frame and no black bars, so the HSS is working perfectly with the iTTL all the way to 1/4000. The 360II is running firmware v2.3 and the X1 is running v12, needs to be updated to v15 as soon as I can find a Windows 7 machine...haha. This weekend I will try it with the PW Flex iTT5 and iTT1 Mini....although there is little reason to use the PW system at this point. Took a Sekonic 478DR meter reading at 12 feet on full power at 100ISO and got f/16 on the 360II. The Nikon SB-910 at full power gave me f/7. Everything seems to function so far.
Thank you very much for all the videos. Very informative. Once you see the first you go all the way to the last one. Question, As with your suggestion with the enelope batteries, what is (or are) your brand suggestion for the mini tt1 rechargables and the charger, since there are too many to pick from. I am willing to try other brands if your suggestion doesn't work for me i.e. bad batch etc, but I would make sense to start with your suggestion. Thanks again.
+Gilberto Vera Eneloops work well for me, but they have a lower capacity, meaning they last less than other quality rechargeables. If I am shooting an event where I want the least amount of changing of batteries, I use PowerEX 2800 batteries. Good batteries are useless without a quality charger and for me that is a MAHA 8080C. I picked mine up from Thomas Distribution (you can google it). As an alternative to the batteries in the MniTT1, for some we now have a 3rd option, the DC-N10 Cable. To use it, it has to be with a Nikon camera with the 10-pin remote port. With this cable, one no longer needs batteries in the MiniTT1, it gets its power from the camera battery... very convenient!
Thank you for all the hard work putting this 5 part series together. I just watched your entire set and learned a good deal of things from your research and testing. PW owes you for putting out such a detailed tutorial!
+Thorsten Ott Why thanks so much for the kind words! It is always such a pleasure when my efforts are acknowledged... as this is the only form of payment I will likely ever receive for my hours of work on this series. Though as mentioned, I have ONE more video left to do, it is where I show as many of these techniques in a live environment, so one gets to see the entire setup in action. Stay tuned as I will likely complete this last one this summer when the weather turns warmer. :-))
+Salvo Jazz Sorry, it will not. YN uses their own frequencies that are different from PocketWizard. This works only if you are using PocketWizard ControlTL units like the FlexTT5 or other PocketWizard products like the Plus II, Plus III, Plus IV, Plus X, Multimax.
@@ricardobattistinialiasrocc98 The SU-600 is a controller not a flash, so no, the Sekonic cannot control that, it is also not a PocketWizard compatible product as far as I know... but then again, I have been out of the photography game for a couple of years now.
@@ricardobattistinialiasrocc98 an SB-600 sitting on top of a PocketWizard ControlTL unit yes... but not compatible withtout it, at least not using this PW controller.
+allskoolguru Glad this worked for you. I've been using this feature a lot more than I thought I would too. There are plenty of battery powered routers out there today, so enjoy. :)
+Robert Neill I have one more video to make in the springtime... keep an eye out on my blog or look here from time to time for the final video in this series... and thanks again!
OK... I'll be looking forward to it. I'm also looking forward to seeing Nikon's new SB5000 and how their radio triggers work... Any info would be appreciated.
+Robert Neill As far as remote triggers are concerned, my opinion is that the SB-5000 is a bit of a disappointment. Yes, it has a few nice options, like a better overheating protection, more groups nd a touch smaller than a SB-910, however, the transmitter has a poor 98-foot range. To get access to all the cool options, you need to have a D500 or D5. It's not any stronger than a SB-910 and the price is a bit ridiculous at $600. There are also many things that the ControlTL units do that the integrated triggers from Nikon will never be able to do... like SpeedCycle, HyperSync, over 350 foot reliable range, industry compatibility with other companies like Profoto and on and on.In short, I feel that Nikon has a LOT of ground to cover before they even match, much less beat, the ControlTL units. Just my 2 cents. :-)
I thought that I heard something about the sb5000's features only being compatible with the new cameras... bummer! Thank you for the information... Do you have an email address that I could use to explain what I'm doing and what I'm trying to accomplish?
+heysalsaguy BTW: I am sure that the person who politely suggested that the AD-360 wouldn't hit f/22 was incredibly handsome, so that helps to make up for his doubting personality.
+Cesar Diaz This mod that I did is specific to the Nikon D4 and D4s. Unless the camera you own has an integrated HTML server this will not work, sorry.
In one of your replies you said this ( It's because of people like you and others that I made the videos for. They are a work of pleasure for me, and it's just my small way of saying thank-you and giving back a little to the community in return.) I bought two TT5's A TT1 and the AC3 as soon as they were ready to be used with the Nikon system. I have watched so many videos and read pages and pages about all of this and even on the Pocket Wizard web site. Not once have I ever sat down and watched just the first video and learn so much and now I am on the forth one. You are the first person who made videos that people can watch step by step of how to use the gear. I was so pissed off and fighting with these things every time I used them so thank you very much for the help you just gave me, now I will take them out of the bag hanging by a burning rope over the river and use them again. When someone said in their reply that they should pay you for doing these videos they were right because they never made anything like what you did for us. It was nice to read the giving back part because when you ask some people it is like you are stealing from them and they run away. Or when you find their videos the are short and always seem to lead to the checkout counter. Also just want to add something about the sb700's, have never seen a different light pattern coming from them. also when they are being used with umbrellas and soft-boxes the light spreads the same as any other light. The reason I bought them wasn't for a master as I don't want them or any other flash sitting on top of the camera after buying the Pocket Wizards.....lol Thanks again for taking the time to give back to us as we can see it takes time to make the videos you have made on this issue...... Thank you.... Holy crap what a great job you did..... Also our Facebook photo page is facebook.com/groups/446603505444075/
+art sutherland Wow! Art, thanks so much for all those kind words! This is how I get paid, in Karma, and I sure don't mind it one bit! Concerning the SB-700s, there are many posts on the net that discuss this issue. It's easiest to see when you zoom it. To quote a portion of one of those posts: "It will put a soft bar just below center that is less exposed...". I've seen this myself many times in tests done in stores and with other friend's SB-700's. This is not something that I see on any other model of flash from Nikon. As an amateur, it may not affect them much if any, but as a pro, this issue along with other limitations are just too many cons to really give it my thumbs up. That's ok, it was not designed to be Nikon's flasgship, and if one cannot afford the SB-800 and up, one has to go with what one can afford and what works for each of us. I just shared my opinion and wanted to warn others who were likely not aware of the limitations. Art, again, thanks for posting, and you are very welcome, I am honored that you took the time to respond with such emotion, it means a lot to me. I still have 2 (maybe 3) more videos to make before the series is completed. #5 comes out in 2 months or less and the last one or two not too long later (maybe a month, all depending o how busy I get with my work). Keep an eye out for them... and keep practicing! :-)
+Jerry Homolka We used two of them to do all our Hockey Portraits if you get a chance check them out and let me know if you see the problem with the light as I can't see it in any of the photos we have used the sb700 which is most of the ones we take....lol Also our Facebook photo page is facebook.com/groups/446603505444075/ Oh and I forgot to say now I know why I can't find #5.....lol
Jerry you did great job creating these informative videos. Thank you! * Have the SB-910 speed light, Sekonic l-358 light meter equipped w/RT-32CTL transmitter, PW TTI and FlexTT5. Cannot get the Sekonic to fire speed lights mounted to FlexTT5's. How did you set up Flex and speed light? Thanks Lindsay
Lindsay Harris Looks like I will have to make a detailed video about that, You are the 3rd person to ask that question. The answer is relatively simple... the RT-32CTL must be on the same channel as the FLEXTT5 units and you have to have the Sekonic meter in the right transmit setting. I am currently away from home and don't have access to my "toys" but the most common mistake people make is to twist the dial in the wrng direction to get the meter to trigger the ControlTL units after setting things up. Another possible reason that you MUST have set the power setting on the remote flashes. To do that, set the commander to send a power level to the remote flashes and set off teh flashes once. It should them work. If this does not help point you in the right direction, write back, I may have to make a small expansion video on this aspect.
