Brilliant video…well done..one question….one idea.. Question…what holds the tool holder to the body?…you just pushed it in…what stops it turning? Idea…instead of using an Allen key for the adjustment, I think a knurled thumbscrew could be used Many thanks…
Awesome project! I would love to give it a try myself. Could you send over the 3d files and drawings? Also how did you cast it? Sand casting from a 3d printed model?
Recently bought a used VM32L machine, and experienced the very same issue. Got hold of a replacement spindle from Amadeal (UK), and some quality SKF bearings. Managed to reduce the runout from 0.08mm to 0.02mm. Still not ideal but it will certainly help with the work that I use it for.
I am a machinist for 40 years now and I don't understand why you're blueing your part and wreck your calipers for marking distances on your part. All my lathes came with an Y-axis nonius or, better DRO indicator. Touch of, zero the Y and Bob's your uncle. It looks fancy maybe... But the only thing here which get's blue sometimes is me ;-) I own a Swiss centering microscope for years now and I discovered that you have to tune it every time when you mount it; tip. I also discovered, watching this video, mine has a much better image and therefore much easier to set and use. It's a nice project to build but is doesn't approach the quality of a bought Swiss or German optical centering microscope. I know price is an issue here. But first when do you need a centering microscope? This question should be involved in this video I think. For me the only reason is to find the center of a hole in a rotated part in the X-Z or Y-Z plane. What you see through the microscope then is an ellipse. And you're able to find the center with this tool. Start of with looking at a straight edge and tune the position of the center of the microscope by moving the x or the Y axis on your machine (depending on the orientation of the edge you're looking at). When spot on turn the microscope 90 degrees. Adjust the lens so it centers on the same edge. Rinse and repeat. If both 90 degrees apart movements show the same edge at the center of the microscope you're tuned in for measuring the part and find edges and centers. And pretty accurate within 0.01 mm. TRhank you and all the best, Job
Many thanks for sharing your insights, Job! The calipers I use for scribing are an inexpensive pair, so I don't mind them getting a bit worn. I do plan on adding a DRO to my lathe in the future, but I still find visual aids helpful to avoid making mistakes. The video doesn't quite capture the quality of the microscope - it looks much better in person. Getting usable footage with my mobile camera was challenging. I wouldn't be surprised if a professional microscope offers better image quality though. As for why I built it, it looked like a fun and interesting project for a hobbyist like myself.
Great editing! I enjoy watching machining hate watching ever hole drilled,tapped etc. Nice job showing the finished part in use also. subscribed and thumbs up!
Think you'd struggle without a flat surface. You can make an incredibly flat surface from scratch, just by rubbing three plates together: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R8XEqo4YC5Y.html
These were used on jig borers and they were in all the catalogs 20yrs ago, then faded away because they only work on jig borers. The reason is conventional milling machine collets or tool holders are not accurate enough to remove and install the device without losing its calibration.
There level artistry that goes into mill work like this, also we used these for measuring the depth of scratches and gouges when I was a helicopter mechanic. Now I know how they’re made.
The reticle came with the kit, but I believe it was sourced from a UK company called Graticules Optics. Think this is the item www.graticulesoptics.com/products/microscope-eyepiece-reticles/circle-gauges-and-protractors/ne48-concentric-circles-1mm-10mm-crossline-scales A very nice piece of kit!
I have one, it certainly will shorten sone setups And help in adjustment of not only tools but also fixtures and machines (re center tailstock to name one)
I haven't had the chance to use it a great deal, but I think with the DRO on my mill, I might be able to measure things like thread pitches and angles. Also, I might be able to work out radii using multiple x/y coordinates.
@@PandiyaRajanbpkyou use it like jeasuring microscope to measure between holes and edgs of things like gear or screw teeth... getting accurate coordinate map in two planes, then you can get third axis by using a dial indicator, those can then be put into CAD software and values possibly with luck minutely tweaked to fit a standard (rare), or you can just put time in trying to match them to standard threads/gear in machinists handbook or similar. this was a whole class when I went through training, not always easy to do when repairing old precision equipment (instrument maker/micro mechanic training decades ago) standards could be used in parts or not at all, even weird mixes, like metric pitch but diameter in inches or reverse, some had just invented a thread to fit specifically that thing, often weird things with random sizes, not always fun to replicate.
My ears! Choke up on that boring bar! You'll get a lot less squealing and chatter. Looks like you've got about a 6:1 stickout. Anything over 4:1 with a steel bar is questionable, especially in a #2 universal tool holder.The #41 is more rigid.
I started one of those kits a decade ago, must be getting round to the time to start again. I only stopped because there wasn't a local anodising company to do the necessary, i think I'll just paint it on the inside.
@@chrisstephens6673 anodising is easy. dilute h2so4, a battery and resistor or variable supply... the dye is boiled in afterwards. except black DYE can be the challenge. buy the commercial stuff ;) most colours can be done using cheapo fabric stain and food dye, but blacks tend to be a mixture and only one takes... leaving you with dark blue etc... like ink on wet paper bleeds different colours. once you get the hang of it its sort of hard to stop... ;) some colours are a challenge. theres also "hard anodising" thats a bit harder to get right, requires a freezer....
Hi Paul, as a fellow-builder of useful projects & tooling / fixtures, I appreciate your contribution to the community. You inspire me & keep me motivated- thank you. Could you share some feedback on how that O1 is performing? How is durability/ edge retention? I appreciate the level of care in your turning and drilling of your 0-flute C/C, In practical application would you reckon your heat treat is on par with the same quality of workmanship? My HSS 0-flutes work very nice in 5086 & 6061 when crisp and sharp, but they don’t do as well in A36. I’m optimistic that o1 might be a beautiful material choice to build my own countersink from. Thanks for sharing. I’m my small circle I’m the twist drill rehab guy! I have a crude jig and can at times subsidize it with enough attention to make a real respectable & symmetric 4-facet grind, but always chasing “better” I would love to rebuild it. I mentioned my reaction of inspiration. Specifically, your tool & die cutter has inspired my vision of its next iteration. Thank you.
Hey, many thanks for the kind words! I'm just a hobbiest, but from my experience, hardened O1 is good for cutting aluminium and free machining steel, but would expect to be sharpening it pretty frequently for more challenging materials. For a small home shop, I've been really impressed with the tool and cutter grinder I built. Can see myself building further addons for it in the future.
