Backyard Mechanic with experience in mostly domestic. Want to show you the "Cheats" I have found to make at home repairs easier. Save potentially hundreds to thousands by doing it yourself.
@dashawnjacksonblitz So the main issue with the stock opti sparks is moisture will get in and it will foul the connections. The plastic tube connected to the metal intake manifold itself creates a vacuum. So that along with the other tube you will see connected to the plastic intake itself allows for fresh clean air in and it pulls moisture out. This should make your opti last longer and avoid the main design flaws of the origional.
So my son has 2010 camero I have replaced a water pipe intake gaskets radiator cap thermostat and it’s still leaking water, but it don’t drip. It seems like it don’t start leaking until the engine gets hot and it’s vibrating before it drips. Anyone else had this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@bad03xtreme It's a 6.5 hole. I'd do as much research as you can if you plan to still use the bose head unit. I got a lot of help from the website crutchfeild. Helps you get the right kits and odd end stuff easily forgotten. Helpful staff will usually build your whole shopping list if need be.
I was talking to the mechanic. He said don’t get MSD he had 2 bad one finally the 3rd one was ok . He said just get OEM opti spark . Did u have any issues with MSD ? Also water pump replacement was sujrsted
@alirezashirazifard8990 I haven't had any issues with my MSD but keep in mind this is just the cap so if there is an issue with the rotor then it won't matter how many caps you throw at it. There is the much more expensive cap and rotor from MSD that is pretty highly reviewed. To be honest it's a flawed design in general so if you aren't careful it's pretty easy to damage even a good part. Issue with the OEM optis is a lot of them still have the flaws that make these so easy to break, ie lack of vent tube and holes at the bottom that water can splash up into. Plus some of these OEM are made really cheaply. But yes I HIGHLY recommend replacing the water pump while doing this. Most of these optis are going out because liquid has got inside the cap which is mostly happening because of a bad water pump like the seals to the block are bad or the weep hole so the last thing you want to do is put a new opti whether is OEM or MSD and it fail for the same reason the last one did. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Hey man, I know this video is a year old but I am having trouble finding the location of the 2nd sensor on the rail. Where is it? Looking online I've been unable to locate it anywhere
@THEICON5146 So this is for V6 roughly 2011(they vary) but if you take the plastic cover off the engine. It will be on the passenger side hovering between the #4 and 6 cylinder(back 2 left side). You can also look at the throttle body you'll see a black hard cliped vent hose if you follow that back toward the firewall it connects to it. Or if you find the Fuel lines on the passenger side usually there is a yellow gas pump sticker one of those passes right by it the one closest to the firewall connects directly to it. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
@THEICON5146 I should make a video mind just hasn't gone out yet but I'll try to describe here. Anything with the rail you'll want to relive the fuel pressure. If you follow the black corrugated plastic line toward the back of the intake you'll see a bicycle tire looking valve. If you get a rag and put a screwdriver into the pin you can relive the pressure. From there the line from the front to the back you just have to release the safety tab and it will pull back. Then there is a clip tab you have to lift up to pull back the plug then finally the more complicated on has a white plastic retaining clip. If you slide that back it should let you pinch then pull it off. From there it's just friction held on the intake. Again unfortunetly I haven't don't this one so I might be missing steps but that's just what I could tell from mine
this is the video you mentioned in a reply to me on the water pump video, very cool. Easy to follow instructions, and very happy you include the socket sizes. I just grab the ones you mention and away we go. I don't plan on putting the MSD in, but maybe so, depends on what we see under the hood tonight.
Please help me, I did everything as in your video and the manual shift works really well, but that's why the 30A fuse that did the auto ignition blew before I installed this. Do you think I should put a 40A fuse in the factory place for the 30A fuse and would that solve the problem? Thank you!
@lukaerakovic3197 Hey, so I understand are you talking about a separate fuse from the factory in the fuse box? Or are you talking about the fuse I show in my video that I installed along the wire from the battery? If you mean the one from the battery yes I did upgrade mine from 30 to 40 and it solved my issues but I did not change any other factory fuses in the fuse box itself. I wouldn't recommend changing any sizes beyond what came out of the factory for what's in the fuse box. The reason being is you might have a separate issue that the fuse in the fuse box is preventing from getting worse so you'd want to solve that rather than allowing it to cause more damage down the line but uping the fuse size in the fuse box itself. But again if you mean the one I show in the video along the power wire that can be changed to 40 amp instead.
@lukaerakovic3197 Could be a few things, bad sensor, bad ground, damaged wire. If something is shorting out you just don't want that bypassing the factory fuse. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
Great video...getting ready to replace fluid and diff gasket in our 1973 Mercury Montego GT. Do you know if there is an axle flange gasket or is silicone good enough ?? Also, should each, side bearing be replaced ??
@paulsopak984 Hey, so there are some gaskets out there but I ordered a couple different and neither fit right and they were fairly cheap and made of very thin paper. I didn't look too much harder after that so there might be better ones availible but silicone has worked fine for mine. The proper way to fully service this would include replacing the bearings but I inspected mine and it did look like they were in good shape and non origional so I did not. I'd say if they look worn is best to cover that while you're there. Thanks for watching
Good idea to put dielectric grease on contact s.especially for old gaskets that might be likely to let water contamination over time.( Corroded sockets).👌
I have a 1995 C4 Corvette. I replaced my opti-spark 4-5 times. Finally I got smart and purchased a torqhead LS type ignition replacement system for the optispark. It costs more up front, but you never have to worry about ever dealing with the uncertainty of getting left on the side of the road because of the unreliable opti spark. The absolute best part is it comes with a PCM that can be FULLY TUNED. So you can put in a bigger cam, get high flow heads, forced induction or any other mod you can think of. Don't waste your time and money with another optispark. I was seriously thinking of getting rid of my Vette until I found out about torqhead. If you go to Ellwein Engines RU-vid channel you'll see an engine builder Carl Ellwein that uses the Torqhead system on his 1995 SS Impala track car.
How much of the car is original? Like the ship of Theseus. Replace enough pieces, is it still the same car? Lol. But shes a nice hotrod, looks similar to, but far cooler, than one tonight at a local cruise in. That one had a steel bumper on the back, not sure where it was mounted.
I'd say the radiator shroud and the brake pedal are it haha. Custom frame, fiber glass body, custom interior, 283 engine from early Corvette, rear end naturally non origional, steering box is 30s, list goes on. Yeah not a lot in the way of safety on mine I had to put in seat belts so I could at least stick with it If something went bad. It sure is fun though, thanks for watching
Hey, unfortunetly I haven't had a lot of luck finding the origional OEM equivalent amp. When I checked last there was a used one on ebay. Might have to replace the whole system if you have similar issues like I did.
I can smell this video. Looks like a fairly doable job, my wife's z28 just sprung a leak at the water pump too. How long do you think it would take if all ducks were in a row? You have the new pump, thermostat, gaskets, hoses, none of the clamps break, none of the bolts are stuck, etc? 2 hours?
It sure is distinct haha. Yeah 2 hours is about right but that's largely if you have the right tools. I do highly recommend those wobble extensions. Maybe you could get a hand in there but it's a pain and trying to use a straight extension you'll run into pullys. The points a step goes from 30 min to hours will be stuck bolts/bad angles and scrapping old gasket off the block. I will say if you have the time to have the car down for a bit I recommend replacing the opti spark as well. I have a video on the cheaper solution of just replacing the cap on my page. Thing is when the pump leaks it often damages the opti if not right away you may notice performance issues soon thereafter whoch require the pump to come off again. I wished I had done it all in one go the first time. Good luck to ya and thanks for watching.
It was the tensioner. Belt can squeak but trust me the video doesn't do it justice on how loud it is and belts dont grind and are rarely localized to one area. Replaced it when this video came out, same belt zero sounds after. Thanks for watching.
Though I guess to your point it in part was belt squeak but it was squeaking because of a bad tensioner that was locking up so the belt would slip then it would grind and make noise then it broke loose.
Hey, so it's a different type of unit with a different manifold. If you visit rockauto that is where I get most of my parts youll see yours. It should be a similar process in theory but location of the bolts will be different. I'd double check the amount of refrigerat to load as well you may need to use a scale but the kit I show for recharging will be the same.
Was it causing a loud popping / grinding sound when turning? Have this issue with my cherokee and hoping it’s just the sway bar mainly when I’m turning left but does make the same noise on a sharp right turn just a loud popping/grinding noise
@joshbechard8113 it is possible that's your issue but only if you have a lot of body roll like your jeep tilts with the turns. It shouldn't make a grinding noise. I'd almost assume that's going to be your front ball joints and maybe some bad bushings. They sell kits with everything. Do you notice even going straight if you It a bump you hear a noise? You can also tell if you go under the front there will be a rod with something that has a rubber sleeve over it on both ends. If the sleeve is damaged or gone you'll have those noises. It's suppose to be clean and covered in grease when the rubber sleeve cracks dirt gets in so now the metal is grinding against itself. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
@@picklesgarage no noise at all when going striaght actually drives Amazing until I take a sharp turn just changed my rear coil insulators and sway bar today and still having the noise not exactly sure what I’m gonna try next was thinking changing rear gear fluid and putting new and or tie rods but honestly I’m pretty stumped on what the problem could he
@joshbechard8113 Yeah I'm thinking it will be related to the front tie rods and ball bearings. Hofully that resolves the issue. Might be able to check by lifting the front end and having someone watch as you turn the wheel back and forth and see if there's any noise or binding
Hello, I am not sure if all of these parts will be the same in Germany but you need basic car wire 14 gauge is best for this use. Then you need a two prong 20 amp toggle switch. Wire striping tool. You need a 4 pin 12 volt relay. Then basic wire connection, heat shrinking wrap and 14 gauge female disconnect one for each terminal on the relay. Hope this helps and Danke fürs zuschauen
I put a thin layer of gasket maker and loosely fitted the cover overnight without oil. Only then did I torque the bolts. Your gasket is too much, you will only know at your next service.
I liked the longer video, tbh I want as much detail as possible. One thing I would say is after u don't it for all the real ones who watched both parts I would of loved to hear it turn on and maybe see the drive but really just hearing it run would of been great. Like that satisfaction after watching it.
Thank you, yeah sometimes people comment they want shorter videos but I'm like you if I'm actually working on something I want to see as much as possible so with an important repair like this I tried to compromise and make it long but 2 parts. I appreciate the feedback though that's a good idea to run it after I'll try to add that in for similar future videos. Thanks for watching!
Hi ...I have a 2016 JGC summit Noticed after bleeding brakes that my brake lights are stuck ON.removed the brake pedal switch today..it's a 3 pin device ..lights still stuck on even when ignition is in Off position The only way to de energize the lights was to remove fuse F26 which feeds ABS pump and ESP...any suggestions please
Hey, hard to say on the newer units but by default the lights are signaled on. So removing the switch will keep them on. So it could still be that the switch to the pedal still needs to be replaced because when the pedal makes contact to it that is what signals for the lights to turn off. They will remain on even with ignition off if that switch isn't there. I'd have someone stand behind and let you know when you push on the switch to tell you if the lights turn off. If they do that's your problem it needs to be remounted and adjusted. If it doesn't turn off the lights it's either a bad switch or potentially a bad ground and I'd follow all the wires coming from the switch to make sure they are in good shape
If you have don't the 2 fuel sensors(one in this video and the one on the frame), as well as the fuel rail and injectors then it might be a damaged wire harness. These codes are related to the electronic fault with the PCM not getting the right voltage response so it's going to be wire or the connection itself related. I'd make sure not of the connections look burnt out and none of the wires themselves are frayed. Likely this is something a little harder to trouble shoot on your own, a shop can check voltage but worth checking for any obvious damage before replacing anything further.
So it's doing that right off start? A lot of these sensor related issues happen mostly when the car is at operating temp so not right away. That almost sounds like a fuel delivery problem and its giving this code because its down the line affected. When this sensor is bad it does make the rpm bobble a bit but I never had the issue of it cutting power. That all being said these sensors give a lot of weird symptoms and it is a relatively easy fix so it might be worth crossing off your list at least and replacing it. Hopfully this helps, let me know if it resolves it or you find it's a different issue
Still one of my least favorite repairs of all time. Tied with some of the repairs that didn't even make it to youtube because I gave up trying to explain how wildly I was winging something haha. Thanks for watching
Do you mean it's wiggling back and forth but the pipe won't pull up? I'd double check along the pipe to double check the brackets are all undone. The pipe should freely pull up and then the housing will rotate around the pipe
It pulls up right below the fuse box I took off the brackets and I can get my fingers on the opened gap of the thermostat housing and it just doesn’t come off when I pull up
@jorgearjona2125 Strange, I know it has the two bolts either side of the housing. I know sometimes it will be stuck from the gasket but if you can get fingers under it that wouldn't be the case. Might be that the thermostat itself is catching on something. Sorry I can't be of more help but it sounds like you removed everything so it's gotta be hooked or something.
@jorgearjona2125 If the new one came with that thick card board cylinder that's the easiest way. You line the new one up and then use the cylinder to push down the tabs by pushing your hands together and then twist so the tabs grab onto the housing. It's a big pain. If you don't have the cardboard cylinder you might get away with a C clamp as long as you dont damage anything. Hope this helps
What did you use to get that bottom short bolt out without having to remove that hose that is in the way? Thats the only part I’m having trouble with and trying to get away with not having to disconnect that hose. Thank you!
The lower front? That was a ratcheting wrench. Super handy they come it sets. They aren't heavily torqued so even breaking it loose with a standard wrench you should be fine to hand loosen. Thanks for watching!
Insanely hard job, this took me like 4 hours with limited tools. At one point I actually couldn't shimmy the supply pipe with the housing on it out like I though I'd be able to, jacked up the passenger side so I could get up in there with one arm with an extension to break the supply pipe bolt loose, only to have to mount the housing back in place to break the tube loose. Absolute nightmare. A good 4 or 5 bolts in this job you have to get off and back in one ratchet click at a time.
Yeah still one of my least favorite repairs. It's tough without some special tools like mini ratchets but then you run into the issue of not getting enough torque on it to break things loose. Terrible set up for sure. Thanks for watching
Good video. The warning is absolutely appropriate. My brother was permanently disfigured by hot coolant to the face. He was ugly before, but 2nd degree and a few third degree burns to the face made it worse, lol, but really it did age him quite drastically when he recovered. And he was being careful. Now, to do this on the wifes 97 z28
as a bolt remover watcher myself, we don't like watching it. we watch it so that when we go to do the work ourselves, it's as if we had done it 100 times before because we watched the step-by-step every step of the way in detail which is why i subscribed. ty for the detail my friend.
We should make like a thin plastic cover that goes over the opti unit and has a opening for the plugs and vacuum lines that prevents splashing from underneath and water from washhing the enging getting directly on the opti itself
