No, it’s a real ATV. It’s one of the first ones. It ain’t no crappy Can-Am piece of crap. I got a Can-Am and it’s been broke over 100 times that’s why it sits in the garage collecting dust while all my Hondas continue to run.
You are the real MVP. I have an RTIC that I Love but I’m going on camping trip and need a solution for a few days . Thinking of filling the RTIC with LUNAice 🤔 for food and the Coleman just for drinks. I know to leave the igloo at home 😂 thanks man!!
I've never understood why they call it a differential if it's not a differential... Do any of you know if there is a modification to apply a real differential to a sportsman 850? Is the sportsman touring equipped with a differential or a simple bevel gear like this?
On that needle bearing clean it good then drop a nut in there and tack it to the race where the nut points touch the needle bearing case. Then thread in a section of all thread rod, don't bugger up the nut threads with your tack welds. Use a plate over the diff housing end with a hole drilled. Screw on a nut until it is down on the plate then keep going until the needle bearing housing is pulled out. I use a mig welder to do the tack welds.
Pressing bearings in like with that bearing driver, listen up.... You should never and I do mean "NEVER" press a bearing in by pressing on the inner race. In this case if it went in easy you may not have F'd the bearings. Find the bearing press plate where the outside is the same or smaller then the outer race, turn it around so the flat side contacts the bearing outer race. Do not use the side with the smaller diameter step that contacts only the inner race. You can also use the old bearing to press in the new bearing ether on a press on with a dead blow mallet or even a hammer if you use light taps around the outside. Done it many times and did not hurt anything because I was hitting the old "outer" race to drive in the new bearing. Just remember to NOT hit the inner bearing race with the hammer. I have a plasma cutter so I usually cut out the center and balls from the old bearing so all that is left is the outer race, that way I never have to worry about being sloppy and whacking the inner race. If it is a situation where the outer race may become stuck in the bearing cavity, I use a 12" disc sander and reduce the old bearing outer diameter a little so it will not become stuck in the bearing cavity. If you use the inner race to press in a bearing and then your bearing only last a short time, now you know why. All that press in force was transferring from the inner race to the bearings to the outer race. Bearing NO NOT LIKE being treated like that. How will they let you know? By failing quickly after you do it. To the Olenasty79 dude if I got this wrong sorry, it just looks like your bearing press do hicky was contacting the inner race not the outer race. Next time turn the bearing press plate around and use the flat side, not the stepped side. Hay I did not know.. until I did, by some one telling me what "not" to do. If I can save some people from F'n up some bearings, that is the point.
Hey man I am looking to replace that pump too the front line near the pulley cracked open and so like you I'm stuck till its done Thanks a lot for showing me the easy way to get it done
We will be going up here tomorrow morning we ride up here all the time but you better know what you're doing up there there's some deep s*** and a lot of good sticky mud
It’s weird mine did this yesterday after I replaced the dash bezel and polished the cluster. I figured maybe it was static from polishing the cluster. I will look at the VSS. Thanks!
I need to post this video to all of my socials. It’s not my job to move YOUR stuff, just because I have a truck! Literally ALL of you are asking me… I love you, friends, but GET YOUR OWN!
I love the photos! I just got one and intend on doing exactly what you're doing, hauling a toy in the bed and on the trailer. Compact quick setup. I love seeing that you can ramp straight from the bed onto trailer and off, that's the way to go.
