Welcome to the Fire & Ice HVAC Learning Center! This channel is a comprehensive collection of videos focused on answering your questions about your furnace, air conditioner, heat pump, and other HVAC related topics. We have videos about indoor air quality, product reviews, installation procedures and more. Feel free to take a look around and see videos regarding installing a new heating and cooling system or requesting maintenance on your current system. Thanks for visiting and we hope that we can make your day better!
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First video I have found that shows the contractor using a respirator and/or face mask. Also first video that actually explained the pros and cons of each tool they use and why and how they use these tools as well as their options based on your duct system.
I have a home built in 1956. The duct systems are metal, much different than today's modern homes. I was told by a company here in So. California that it was not recommended because they would be damaged. How much truth is there in that statement. I would like to clean the ducts in my home. Thank you.
Was kind of hoping to also see an explanation about portable vs "installed" ones (idk the terminology); I live in a rental place and cannot just decide to have an air conditioner installed. I heard that there are portable ones where you put the hose through the window, but they make a lot of noise? I'm not too familiar with them. Or if there's other solutions since there's lots of insects around here. If I put the hose through the window I'm sure to have a lot of wasps and mosquitos come and visit and if its very noisy I'll have neighbours who come and pay me a visit... I live in the Netherlands and know nobody personally with air conditioning, but I live on the top floor of a very old building and its poorly isolated. Combine that with the heat my neighbours produce that rises up to here and it just gets really uncomfortable, 36 degrees celsius at night sometimes (while for us, like 18 or less is normal). Just trying to figure out my options before I make a purchase I regret, but we've only just started to get summery weather and it shot up 7 degrees, from 20 to 27 and I already can't stand the heat xD Anyway thanks for this explanation but I don't think it'll help me much with what I'm looking for.
I would not take the BTU or EER ratings of portable air conditioners seriously. The single duct units are horribly flawed in design, and their actual BTU delivery is often only 60% of the rated amount. The DOE made them re-rate their outputs separately from the old ASHRAE BTU numbers not too long ago. My "12,000 BTU" portable AC was a joke and couldn't cool the living room down more than 5 degrees F at full blast, whereas my 12,000 BTU mini split barely needs to even turn on at the lowest setting and has no problem cooling on hot days.
We have recently moved to a new house but now in summer at an average temperature of 45 degree Celsius every wooden door and furniture in our house have gotten cracks joints losses and intense damage is this due to high humidity or low humidity 😢??
My blower fan “hits” hard when it is cycled on. (Think; every time the AC cycles on at night, it wakes me up) Can a hard start kit be installed on the blower fan capacitor to help soften the startup ?
Can you go over how to shut an old furnace off? I have a switch " on, off, fan" i turned it to off. I have black knob that says on, off and pilot. I can turn that from on to pilot but not past it to off. Any suggestions?
Ok so ..That ANd.... was killing me Ok But I liked the fact that u.. ok gave me info b4 u asked ok.. Simmer down on the AND.. OK And Dont make that your thing Ok..😊 (And...) my portable unit Has everything from heat to dehumidifier Ps a concrete tub under a 2x4 stand w plywood gives u a flat 5 gallons to drain and that's plenty for the day And that includes Florida
Great video! Thanks for all the information. I'm tired of keeping the fan on full blast just to fall asleep during the summer. Bedroom is above a garage
These kits are a band-aid for compressors with start issues. That's the reason manufacturers don't design compressors with them. I have two 2 ton compressors going strong 21 years. I did try one kit and it did in fact reduced LRA and light dimming at start-up. However it added another point of failure which it did fain within in a year. Haven't looked back since... There is no better mousetrap and snake oil is for fools money.
I have a 3 story town home. the 3rd floor is 15 degrees warmer in the Summer and 15 degrees colder in the winter that the 2nd floor and 17 degree different than the finished basement. The 3rd floor doesn't get enough air to blow out a match and not enough air to feel from any of the vents. The dampers have been checked the returns have been checked and the insulation has been checked and inspected. We replaced the system about 8 years ago and have it inspected every winter and Summer. We investigated having zoning installed and even contracted to have a company update our system to put in electronic dampers. But that very bin=g supposedly reputable company never bothered to show up to do the install. Since then We have been told by other companies that we need to just accept the temp differences and that's the way it is. we have a 3,000 sq ft town home with 3 floors and a 3 ton Carrier system. during the summer and winter the 3rd floor ( where the bedrooms are its miserable) at least in the winter we can add blankets but all summer long its a sweat box. Am I wrong in thinking there MUST be a solution?
Great informative video. I have a friend who does HVAC tell me with an air purification system, you can also install a UV light. With this system, would you recommend an additional UV light or is it not needed? Also, the main benefit to this is to reduce allergens. One reason I am looking into purchasing one, is I’ve been told these systems reduce household dust. Therefore, reducing the amount of cleaning a home owner needs to do. Can you confirm, if I can expect a cleaner home after installation? Thank you
I used Fire & Ice (Corona, California) for the first time last week, to service my parents’ HVAC system. I was really pleased with them. I live in a double wide mobile home near parents’ home, and have been having a problem with dampness in the crawl space under my home. The home is set in a permanent foundation made of cinder blocks. There is no vents to the crawl space, just the entrance through a hinged door, like a storm shelter. The underneath is held up by the piers. I have lived here for 5 years, and since last winter, I’ve been getting a horrible smell coming into my house- musty, is the best is to describe it. I smell it more when I sniff down by the floor registers, which I keep covered with magnetic covers when I’m not using the heater or AC. I had the moisture barrier repaired under the house, hoping that would help, and on nice days, I hook open the crawl space door, and run a 12” industrial fan to try to push ventilation under the house. Will duct cleaning help this?
I've lived all over the world. Outside of America, people use nothing or split units. Split units work great. You can have one or two and it can handle a 1500 to 2500 sq house. Like he mentioned,...they can handle zones. The quality ones are quiet....nothing bad to say about them if maintained. Put them in the room you want the most cool or heat and that's it. They heat and cool...they humidify. I didn't know anything about them until I saw/used them out side America. I'd buy one with no problem. They're best in new construction with houses that are well insulated.
Is it recommended to keep the E100 NEXT to the HVAC in the basement and simply letting the whole house air eventually equilibrate or does it need to be tied directly into the HVAC duct work? If it must be tied in then does the E100 have a humidity gauge for each level of the home when tied into the whole house HVAC and, if so, would zoning be required to maintain each of the three story levels ? I am asking because a local company is recommending the E100 but says it is "too much wiring" for my three story home and it would also cause the third floor to be too dry? I do not agree with them at all but they are the "pros". Thus, they want the E100 to simply sit next to the HVAC in the utility room and drill upper and lower vents in the room to allow the air to circulate by convention for the cost of .......$6500. To me this is a total JOKE but your feedback is appreciated since I may just try to do it myself.
@@fireiceheatingandaircondit4363 So no duct work. Freestanding "near" the HVAC in the basement. Just curious, what is the power requirement I will need to run a line for power: 15 or 20 amp? Is the E100 a bit of an overkill if not attached directly to the HVAC for a 3,100 sq ft home would you recommend the 70 or 80?
I have a Trane 15 seer 4 ton for 15 years and it is the best mouse and snake trap invented. The mice as I understand it love the soy in the wiring I cant explain the snakes, except maybe they are after the mice.