I'm wanting to do kinda the opposite. I want to swap a 4494/4493 into a Colorado to gain the AWD mode. Have you looked into this? I'm trying to anticipate any issues I may have with the electronic controls. I'm wondering about whether I need to do something with the traction control system (TCS). My understanding of the H3 is that it uses the TCS to manage wheel slip among all 4 wheels by applying differential braking to the wheel(s) that are slipping, because it has no mechanical LSD in the front/rear diff and the transfer case works like an open diff in AWD mode. The Colorado/Canyon I believe similarly uses the TCS to manage wheel slip, but in 2WD mode. So, I believe it may only detect slippage and apply differential breaking between the left and right rear wheels. I don't want to have to turn TCS off. I'm also swapping the H3 front suspension and front/rear axles for the wider track and to avoid the need to bypass the front axle disconnect. This is going to be a go-fast(ish) street truck.
Im not very familiar with the C/C trucks. Obviously they are very similar and I think the BW should bolt up okay. Controlling it may be a challenge. You are correct about the H3 ABS…it has four independent ports at the master cylinder, to vary the pressure to each corner. I don’t see the point of swapping axles, other than to get the H3’s 4.56 gearing and electric lockers. I assume they are the same track width.
@@4speedfunk Thanks buddy. The track width of the H3 is significantly wider (57.5" vs 65"). It's one reason why some swap the H3 axles/suspension. Besides the wider track, by swapping you get (1) an 8.6 10 bolt rear (C/C came with the 8.0, except for the later V8 trucks); (2) stronger iron diff cases (C/C were aluminum); (3) bigger brakes; and (4) basically every suspension component is bigger/stronger. Since the H3 and C/C are related, the parts swap like Legos.
@@4speedfunk yup. next H3 you SAS, you could sell the take-off parts as a DYI H3 swap for the C/C folks, or, offer as a service in-house. Would probably be a nice additional income stream. Plus, at over a 1000lb lighter, the C/C are pretty capable with the OEM H3 stuff.
Great video, I've really been debating on running a solid axle but the minimum of 6" total lift I think is just way too much for me. But going SAS is the only way to go for a driver side diff. I suppose I'll see how much power the Stock T-case can hold. I hope to go for around 500hp, and if I do go the route of a SAS I'm probably doing to be 30-40k into my build which, by no means cheap. if I plan on running a 6l80e which is gonna cost around 7k, but if I go the route of a driver side drop solid axle I can probably save some money there as I wont need a T-case adapter or output shaft
What brand air bags are those? Thought you said Vulcan but couldn’t locate it. Did you custom fabricate the bracket on the frame or is that something off the shelf?
Hi Ryan. Sorry those bags are made by VIXEN (not Vulcan)....part #VXD2600DP. Also on the bottom of the bags, I use some plastic cradles that allow the bag to lift off the springs at full droop. These cradles are made by TycoonOne, part #KU09140BK. Both are available at Amazon. If you wish to have more info on the rear spring-over-axle mod...hit me up via the THORparts website. I can get you all the parts you need to complete your own SOA.
@@4speedfunk I sent you an email to find out more about the air bag system. I’m running a Rancho lift with spring under. Just want to add bags for when I load up.
every time you post a video, it feels like hitting the lottery! Love the build! May reach out late this year for my '08 Alpha (SUV) once this new truck comes in.
I love watching your videos. Another excellent build. I bought an H3T alpha (53,000 miles) a couple months ago, and would love to explore a similar setup to this.
I recently purchased a low mileage H3T alpha, and could really use this suspension setup. Thank you for sharing such detailed “straight to the point” videos.
Do you still have your Hammer with 2WD? I want to make this conversion because I don't need 4WD where I live. Any tips? Great video, I little bit scare to open the transfer case 😅 Thanks!
Yes...I have done five or six of these, and they are all driving around with no issues. This mod won't do you much good unless you also have disconnecting hubs (all of my installs were with solid axles). This kit will disconnect the front output of the t-case but, you still need to somehow disconnect the front hubs to get a TRUE 2wd.
@@4speedfunkI see in the video that actually you're sending all the power right to the rear dif. I want to also reduce weight. 1. Can I remove front dif, shaft and hubs? 2. Is there a way to send the power right from the transmission to the rear dif and remove this T-case using a long driveshaft? Thanks! 🙏🏻
1. You can remove the front differential, driveshaft, and halfshafts…but not the hubs. Also you need to gut the outer CV joints and install the stub shafts into the hubs with the proper torque. Put the t-case in 4HI-lock. That will make a 2wd Hummer. 2. You must remove the t-case adapter from the tail shaft of the transmission and install a shorter output shaft. You will have numerous dash lights on permanently.
@@4speedfunkThank you so much for your answers! Yes, I was talking about the axels, no hubs... My mistake! 😬 I was looking for an extension tail housing and output shaft adapter for the 4L60E and remove the short housing that is connected to the tcase but I know what you're saying about the dash lights lol Thanks again for your time!
Your welcome! I might also add that you can remove the front drive line (like you inquired about), and drive around indefinitely in 4HI-lock. This will basically give you a 2wd Hummer. You can leave the t-case in place, to keep all the dash lights off. The front output will still rotate but, it won’t do anything with the driveshaft missing. I have driven for YEARS like this…no problems at all.
@@truckman29801, Contact George at transfer cases unlimited. He manufactures and sells the 2WD kit. His email and phone number are below. transfercasegeo@aol.com 631-226-1448 Tell him CJ at THORparts sent you.
I recently rebuilt my Dana 44. Its beautiful but its a couple degrees off. The tool I bought didn't work and stripped the inner sleeve. How does one remove it then?? Do you need to lift the axle from one side to relieve pressure? Id really appreciate it if you had secrets to do this that you can reveal. Thank you!! MK
To rotate (or remove) a sleeve…you must first break the bond between the tapered stud and the sleeve ID. Loosen the upper castle nut and smack the stud downward with a brass hammer. Once you get the stud loose, you need to spin the sleeve out with a punch & hammer…tapping it around in a circle until you can get some pliers on it.
Hello! Question! I have a 2006 h3 that has a issue.in normal 4 high the tranfer case shift to neutral while driving? What keeps the 4 high engaged inside the tranfer case? Is any conversion to leave ot in 2wd full time bipassing the hig/low ? Thanks
1). I've not heard of that problem before. Neutral can only be reached by pressing and holding two t-case buttons at the same time. Perhaps the buttons on the dash are "sticking". This is quite common. 2). If the t-case is shifting modes by itself, it is usually due to a worn (plastic) shift fork, or sticking buttons. 3). Yes...Transfer Cases Unlimited sells the 2WD kit in this video. The kit comes with a new aluminum fork, so you can fix that issue at the same time. Call George at: (631) 226-1448
@4speedfunk l already took the transfer case off and put the improved fork. Transfer case was clean and no metal shavings . Do you know what keeps the transfer case lock in 4 high? Thanks
@@12masterr Hi again. The shift rod inside the t-case has spring-loaded detents on it. When everything is working correctly, it will stay where you put it (or where the encoder motor puts it). I bench-test the t-case thru all modes before I install the encoder motor. I do this with a pair of pliers, and you can "feel" the detents for each mode. I rotate the input shaft, and make sure that I have 2HI, 4HI, 4LO on the outputs before I install it back into the truck. Neutral is all the way around at the end of the dial. I suppose if the encoder motor is freaking out...it could put the case into neutral. But, normally this can only happen by pressing and holding two buttons simultaneously.
@4speedfunk thanks! When I have the case apart I can not feel any detents. Are they located on the shift fork? I tougth the electric motor was keeping it from moving! Thank you very much!
@@12masterr When properly assembled, you can take a pair of pliers and rotate the selector shaft through all modes. It should feel quite stiff, and all three modes will be very obvious. The detents are built-in to the shaft assembly. If the shaft freely rotates with little or no effort…then something isn’t assembled correctly.
Last I heard the owner still has it. Shoot me an email via the THORparts website with your contact info, and I will pass it on to the owner of this rig.
Iirc correctly in one of your videos you also used a Nissan Xterra steering gearbox?. If so, what has your experience been with that box & the pitman arm goes to the front in those correct?
I have used a number of different boxes on these H3 builds. The Nissan Xterra box is very similar to the Toyota IFS box on this yellow truck. However, they both use a rear-pointing pitman arm which limits how far forward you can position the axle. If you want to stretch the wheelbase, I would recommend a Toyota FJ-60 or FJ-80 box. These older FJ boxes have the forward-pointing pitman arm that gives more room for the stretch.
@@4speedfunk ok thank you!. I would like to push the axle slightly forward but at the same time don’t want to give up handling characteristics or have to deal with faulty boxes… Do you think 40s would still be possible with this box or the Xterra box (just for extra capability in deep snow)? I have an 08 Alpha that I just had to replace the carrier in as it literally split in half so now I’m a bit more worried about the IFS as I was planning on going to 35s from these stock 31s. Both my inner CV axle joints were almost impossible to move though as I’m sure that helped contribute to the carrier failure..
@@northernidahooutdoors3748 I have built many SAS H3's and none of them turn as sharp as a stock IFS H3 (with rack & pinion). This is mostly due to the lower links of the three-link but, also due to tire rub on the fenders (just in front of the doors). Moving the axle forward helps the fender rub but, you will still be limited by the lower links. If you look at Jeep JK lifts...they often have bent lower links for this same reason. I haven't tried this yet but, it may be possible to put a bend in them. FAULTY BOXES! Yes! Thats why I like the Trail Gear Toyota IFS box. Its brand new and pre-ported.
@@4speedfunk thank you for the info!. I’ll definitely be in contact & ordering parts from you in the future. Hopefully you have no plans to quit doing what you do… Awesome work man!
I contacted the transfer case unlimited website there is no way to order it hope they update there website so people who are living outside of us can also get these parts
You will probably need to call George at: (631) 226-1448. If you cannot get thru, I can get one to you. Contact me at THORparts with a shipping address and I will get you a quote.
The variable full-time output assembly (sun & planetary gears) gets replaced with a simple splined coupler. It permanently couples the rear output shaft to the input shaft, and the chain sprocket that drives the front output is allowed to free-spin. So in all three modes...the rear output is solidly connected to the input, all the time. The front output is controlled via the fork and it functions just like stock...either locked or unlocked. Then the range fork will select low or high like ratio just like stock. The only downside to this kit is that you give up your full-time variable (torque sensing) mode...something that I really like about the H3. But, the trade off is worth it if you are doing extreme wheeling, and don't want to spin a big, heavy, solid axle all the time. You must have the ability to un-lock the front hubs (solid front axle swap). Not sure this mod has any advantages with the stock IFS, as you have no way to disconnect the hubs. I have been driving it around for a few months...love it so far.
My camber was negative 1 degree on passenger side and +.4 on driver side. Luckily I had spindle shims. I messed with their orientation and it got substantially worse. What I ended up doing was putting the spindle shims/spacers on exactly how I took them off except I sanded down the bottom of the shim/wedge/spacer just enough to get damn near level tires. All it took was maybe 1/16" of removal. Now it's Absolutely less than 1/2degree positive/negative camber side to side. I wanted to avoid adjustable ball joints as much as possible. The spindle shims aren't obtainable new now a days. You could make your own if you have to. The adjustable ball joints you show here are much more feasible but if you have factory spindle shims/wedges simply adjust those first and run normal ball joints.
@@4speedfunk that's not the style I had. They were steel with the six bolt spindle pattern, not slotted. I attempted to order some 2-3 times and they always ended up being a mislabeled part. I'm sure those would work great though. Thanks for posting the link
Your welcome. I have had steels ones like you describe and also had some plastic ones…that were color coded for each different offset. I have searched high & low and I’m pretty sure they haven’t been made for many years. Glad to find these from CPT.
I ride my twin cams the same way...just bopping around the back roads. I'm lucky if I get over 3000 rpm too! Where I am drivers get up in your teeth now even on back roads...a bad trend.
Beautiful bike,such good shape,sounds awesome, great investment and I bet it's awesome to ride,I have a 2000 heritage but I'm looking for a bike just like this orange beauty
good info stock applications and stock axle configuration...fine change something (bigger tires and/or lift kit) and then start correcting all the sh+t that went wonky on ya when you messed withit! taller tires with stock camber likely will change scrub radius and cause excessive wear, this remedy as shown in the vid is best quickest cheapest fix. HOWEVER--- if you change other things you will need to correct more issues! lift kit could change pinion angle - you got to check it and correct if necessary (beyond the scope of this video) depending on method to correct pinion angle, you may need to adjust CASTOR (beyond the scope of this video) depending on your method to correct castor, you might incorporate correcting camber simultaneously (not addressed in this video) think of suspension as a SYSTEM, not just this aspect or that aspect. select lift & tires to establish ride height and vehicle stance, then begin the process of adjustments/corrections to make the system work. its not terribly complicated, just requires a wee bit of knowledge, some mechanical aptitude, and a modicum or adventure. but when you get it correct you have bragging rights!
Mechanic told me that my axle housing is bent like a banana. Coincidentally the alignment sheet showed -1.4 and - 1.2 camber. Usually the axle bends on one side and considering that I have a truss and C gussets I think that the issue is what you explained on the video.
I have seen many "banana" trussed axles. This is very common and the bending is most likely from welding the truss onto the housing, using too much heat and welding too quickly. As the weld and truss cools...it pulls the axle tubes into a smiley face. You might try cutting the truss loose to see if the tubes go back to their original position...then re-weld them slowly, moving around to limit the amount of heat being put into the assembly. I recommend 1" stitch-welds, rather than a continuous weld along the length of the truss. Regardless, I have seen slightly bent housings run for 100K miles without any concerns...it all depends on how badly the housing is bent. -1.4 and -1.2 can easily be corrected to 0 with eccentric bushings...whether it is due to the bent housing or not. I typically run 1.5 degree bushings on stock (straight) GM housings, as the camber is set to this at the factory and I am targeting 0 camber.
@@4speedfunk thanks for the solid input, unfortunately I have a wrangler with a Dana 30 and I don't think that these bushings are an option for this axle. The forums recommend that I should at least try some of those 1 degree shims that go in between the hub and the knuckle to set my camber within tolerance. I could cut the truss at home without needing to to remove the axle but at least I got some options.
