These Makita blue translucent dust collector bodies have well documented issues with cracking around the nozzle area. Mine is 2 months old, and has many cracks already. How is yours going so far?
😂😂The glove didn't cause anything if you slamb the saw on your hand its gonna cut it in half no matter what. Really loose gloves as well as any clothes for that matter will get caught in stuff. However if you actually where things that fit you you'll get better protection and won't get caught in stuf
So y'all are complaining about the glove when literally the point of this is to tell y'all NOT TO WEAR GLOVES AROUND DEADLY SPINNY CRAP... I had this pounded into me daily when working in a wood shop
This is all wrong the saws safety system starts to take action when i comes in contact with a item with a electro magnetic force in side of it for example a hand. If you put a balistic dummy hand that doesnt produce that energy it will think its a normal object and cut it in half
Wow, yeah, with respect, not every saw is like that. In fact, I would say they are a minority. That is a newish technology that most can't afford. Stay safe out there 🙏
Lmao your dumb. What your thinking of is a function used in commercial table saws that cram a piece of aluminum into the blade to instantly stop it from cutting. But in turn, ruins your blade and coast repairs to anything else that broke. Up side is you don't loose a hand
Great job. On my first floor, i cut the first board of each row 5 inches shorter than the previous row. It resulted in a pattern that was glaring the minute ypu walk in the room. I didn't know until I knew. Similar to your floor, it catches the eye. Overall, it doesn't result in a bad floor. Just not the most desirable to some. Keep up the hard work, sir.
If you have never used a vix bit before, you should check them out. When you're installing hardware they help you predrill the hole perfectly. That way your screw heads sit evenly.
I do slabs every once in a while when there is a metal door frame with integral hinges. 9/10 when replacing a door it's faster and cheaper and easier to install install a pre hung. That's why every new construction build uses pre-hung doors.
I've never done one of these in my life, but I'm absolutely positive you did everything wrong. God Bless! (had to be the first RU-vid armchair expert to yell at ya ;) )
It looks great, my only suggestion would be to not skip a single board for every seam match. You should skip at least two boards before you have another duplicate seam.
Perfect timing. I am about to try my first flooring project. Estimate for our house is about 35K for both floors all rooms/etc (incl carpet removal). I figure I can save about 30K or so in upcharges, labor, etc doing it myself. Grabbed 8 boxes of Mohawk at Costco to try one room. Been watching so many videos and one thing that throws me (well two) is this thing where you mark the panel, cut it and reverse it. I think it's for when you get to a wall and you need to cut to fit just right, you mark the panel, cut it and use the other piece and turn it around? I dont know will figure that out when I get there. The other thing is.. well downstairs is cement, and upstairs is wood. So besides removing the carpet and tack bars and any nails and all that, the leveling process scares me a little. I have a 24" level (not a good metal one though so may go pick one of those up). I seen some videos where they put some compound down and then use a long level wood stick to scrape it to fill in the area I guess. Not sure if the same goop is used for cement and wood but I would assume different goop for that? The last one is the need for the barrier. The panels I got apparently have some sort of barrier attached. But I am told cement (bottom floor) can have more moisture come thru. One of my neighbors spent like $5K having his entire bottom floor sealed before doing floors. That is yet another cost I can't afford so unsure if thats only needed if you plan to put real wood in or what. Thus wondering if buying this blue stuff you got here + the panels is a good way to go (assuming those rolls aren't too pricey) or if the stuff attached to the flooring is good enough to avoid any moisture seeping thru the cement into the flooring.
My experience over the years, my main suggestion would be to jump in and start trying some stuff out. Practice some cuts, maybe lay some flooring down around the areas you have concerns with regarding leveling etc. see if it works or not. It’s the only way you are going to become more comfortable and confident. As for concrete floors and moisture, you will always need some sort of moisture barrier. I used the blue foam because it was a barrier and a cushion for flooring. Some flooring already comes with foam on it but still requires a plastic moisture barrier of some kind. To this day I still make all kinds of mistakes but it’s necessary. That’s how you get better! Hope this helps.
@@TheProgressA Right on brother. Great video btw. I appreciate your vocality around making mistakes and figuring it out as you go. I suspect that will be me as I love trying to do various woodworking projects (making some corn hole boards and a desk to go on a new sit/stand set of legs as well for example). But I do like to take advantage of our tech today e.g. watch videos and get a leg up on going in blind. :D.
Long life to the king of cordless vacuum 💪🏻 we had 2 cordless dewalts where I was working before, amazing vacuum with a 6 ah battery it lasted about 33 minutes each battery ez to use, clean and maintain, where I work right now they don't even have vacuums and because I needed something quick, I had to buy and off and unknown brand called KXX, the vacuum does the job but the batteries don't, it only last 12 minutes with the same 6 ah batteries, I learned my lesson to not buy cheap and untrusted brands anymore.
