I like old cars. My channel focuses mainly on the old car hobby. Some videos are more serious, about fixing and maintaining your old car. Others are fun an light showcasing ways to enjoy your old car.
Thanks for the great idea. Wired this into a 1950 Buick along with a couple of freestanding speakers in the back window that I already had lying around from another project and it works like a charm. The speakers I used in the back window take a bit away from the vintage look, but it's a decent trade-off as the car's naturally beautiful dash looks unspoiled and the sound is surprisingly good.
I have a 40 Plymouth truck. When I pull the vacuum switch it goes one way, and when I push it back in, it goes back the other way. Is that possibly correct for it, or is it not working correctly?
My 51 F1 will start cold.. but after 15 mins of running..the starter will drag verly will turn over.. after 30 minutes of sitting will crank right up.. truck has a fh v8
Pos Ground or using the car it self as pos side of the battery as the feed side have it's advantages , One thing is that you dont need relays at all . Putting lets say the headlight switch on the Neg side elemates the need of a relay . This means less connectors and wires . There is no advantages of neg ground or 12 volts ether . There is really no need of etronic IGN or a powered on coils ether . We could use Mags instead . This leaving the only reasons for a bat is to start the car if it needs an electric starter . All other electeric to power everything can be powered by a gen or alt and a capacitor with a regulator . all this crap they have put on these cars is really BS . You still have AC , Radio , computer , lights as a modern car . Yes a 12 volt system is a bandaid on older 6 volt cars . So lets get to electric and modern cars !!! I mean up to date cars now . What we have now and what we learned over the years . We dont even needs a battery at all . The super capacitors could replace the bat . They are cheaper to make with little wast and polutants .
Hi Keith love your channel. I have a 54 Plymouth P24 that has fuel, compression and verified top dead center on number one cyl I have spark .It just will not fire over. It wants to so bad Have any suggestions..I can send video of it turning.
Around 115 to 120 psi…If you hold the starter down it seems to spin fast enough that it wants to start..I can send a video of what is doing..Thanks Nate
Yes Age 62. I paid $1500.00 U.S. in 1989 for a complete 37Dodge Coupe 218.7 D5 and found the Dykes Blue encyclopedia for my 37. 48. And my 1921 Dodge 12 volt Touring Car !
Appreciate the video. I won’t tell you the dumb mistakes I have made but watching this video will help me add an electric fuel pump to my old 67. It takes about 30 seconds to start if it sits more than a day.
@@kylekosalka713 great news. Welcome to the club. There are tons more videos I made for you and others to watch. Be sure to work through them and you’ll be looking after your ‘38 with confidence!
Hi, I am in the midst of trying to restore a similar Philips console. I noticed you had changed the same caps I have in my chassis. Where did you get your new caps from?
Went to 8v. Electronic replacement for the point needs minimum of 5.1 volts to function. In the winter time voltage would pull down to 4.8. Vehicle would keep cranking but it wasn't making a spark. A full battery and adjusting the regulator and 10 years later my wife works out of her 55 Chevy on a pretty much daily basis still.
Please Keith-waiting for the roadtrip in the 38. Talked to you over on the P15-D24 forum a while back. Take lots of GoPro footage thru the windshield. Thanks for all of the videos so far!
I had a 1953 Chrysler Windsor 8 Passenger Sedambulance. It was originally owned by Fairbanks Morse in Beloit, Wisconsin. The car was also pictured in the book 70 Years of Chrysler. It was an awesome car, but I knew I had one chance to start the car, otherwise I had to jump it. One thing that helped was adding an inline electric fuel pump. I put the fuel pump on to stop vaper locking, but it also didn't waste battery power pumping fuel from the tank.
This is so funny! I just went through the exact same thing installing a new oil pump on my '49 Plymouth. I followed the manual with lining up the slot in the gear and rotating the gear one tooth counterclockwise. I spent hours removing the pump and readjusting it with out any luck. THEN I noticed that second adjustment slot on the distributor, DOH! Wish I had seen this video earlier! Still nice to see someone else did the same thing I did. Thanks for posting!
thanks for the video, it was a great help for me. I do have what may seem like a dumb question. Can the electric fuel pump be turned off after the engine starts and just use the mechanical fuel pump? I guess what I'm asking is, can the electric fuel pump be used as a back up only?
You are a Godsend! I couldn't figure why they gave so little adjustment until now. I can finally time my car (53 Plymouth). I solved the slow start with another of you videos; the battery cables were too thin. I went to Harbor Freight and bought 2/0 inverter cables for $35.00 and now it turns over quickly.
@@keithsgarage5831 At top Dead centre my rotor is roughly in the 9 oclock position.I have checked TDC 4 ways(dowel over 6th cylinder,loose play on value tappets on No1,timing mark is lined up to marked flywheel (dead centre mark) and number 1 is on compression stroke. I'm guessing oil pump is off a cog ? Question. Does it really matter ? Firing will still occur in same order and rotation.As long as distributor cap and more importantly rotor ,lines up to the number 1 high tension lead (and distributor has room for timing adjustment via base clamp) What are your thoughts.Thank you for the amazing videos.Im working on a 42 Dodge D60s tipper with a 25" 237 Wouldn't be this far ahead if it wasn't for your videos.thanks
@@bazmarty6084 It doesn’t really matter. As long as you can acess the major and minor timing adjustments. Use a timing light and set it as needed. It won’t know the difference and it’ll run fine.
The vacuum advance that goes to my carb (Maybe its the choke) is twisted nearly shut. I don't know why. It's a 1956 Plymouth Savoy Flathead Six, with 12v. And a three speed manual on the column.
Hi Keith I have found your videos helpful I have a 1939 oldsmobile I believe it was made in Canada that I am trying to I'd what the engine numbers mean on the side of the block 410932_2 the other number is fr26187 which is located on the left hand top of the block under the head Any ideas
hi Keith enjoyed your videos i found them helpful i am hopping you could help me with id an engine its out of a 1939 oldsmobile i have (a project car) the car was probably made in canada and sent to new zealand in 1939 it is right hand drive from factory the number on the block is 410932-2 but the number i am trying to find out about is located on top of the block on the left hand side at the front of the motor its only visable when the head is removed it is fr26187 any idea what it relates to
I am just in the process of rebuilding the engine in my 1949 Studebaker Champion flat head six 170. I only want to do it once. I am 73 just about 74 and I am a retired Machinist. This is not my first auto restoration either. My oldest was a 1916 Model T truck. But it will likely be my last. And I only want to do it once because I want drive my car, not spend my time upside down under the hood.
Fantastic video.Another way to calculate rolling tyre distance travelled (instead of using tape measure directly on wheel) is to mark your tyre and where it touches the pavement with chalk.Roll the tyre one full revolution until chalk on tyre retouches the pavement and mark pavement.Then measure between the 2 chalks marks on distance traveled on pavement.This can be useful in working out how different sized tyres/wheels effect distance travelled per revolution.
My 55 ford f-350 was 12v converted when i got it and i rolled it back with no knowledge of the battery cable issue. It would laborously start when cold but when it got hot it wouldnt start at all.. this is because as wires get warmer they gain resistance and the engine bay gets very hot. So yes it worked on the tiny 12v cable for the initial startup but not after it gets hot in the engine bay.
Good video, but one thing needs to be emphasized. You need to find TDC on the #1 cylinder COMPRESSION stroke. You talked about it for the #6, but to be at TDC you must be compression stroke for #1.
Yikes! I am near 85 and remember this car was nearly exact to my father's car including the color! I learned to drive on a fluid drive. Thanks for posting
You know I started driving my own car when I was 16(I'm 88yrs old), a 1941 Desoto, and lived in Illinois around the Peoria, Pekin area . Cold winters were the norm and don't recall having any issues starting my car or problems seeing to drive at night either, so I guess that ignorance is bliss, huh? All of our farm tractors were 6v, and pick ups too, no problems with them either. My father's car was a straight 8 Buick and I can't recall him ever having starting problems with it either. I think that the secret to having a vehicle that started easy, was to keep the engine in good running order. Just my opinion.
