I bought a p10F and I like it overall but the trigger was a disappointment…it’s not what people hype it up to be. The reset is great but the pull is gritty and heavier than both my MP 2.0s and Shield plus. I may polish using your advice or order an aftermarket set up.
What? So if I get it correctly you replaced the mag release button spring so it’s easier to push then you complain about it being easy to push accidentally. Bro.
One quick tip, I would not use water on anything after you take out the finish, it could rust and ruin the finish. Wet cloth maybe with isopropyl alcohol, or something else other than water wet cloth.
Anyone noticed magazine insertion issues? So with mine it’s second Gen, when I insert the magazine. Auto forwards but makes a second click as if it’s reseating the magazine????? Never seen this before. I ordered an apex Tactical mag release, hopefully it solves it. I don’t think it affects anything the way it is now just annoying.
Is this disassembly the same for the Optics Ready version. I noticed that the Optics Ready version doesn't have the pin directly above the mag release.
I can't beleive I'm admitting this, but I'm brand new to OWNING a pistol. I've shot all kinds of guns, and I've owned shotguns and rifles, but I am brand new to cleaning a semi-auto pistol. Anyway, I'm putting the thing back together after cleaning and oiling this thing to death (I probably go a little overboard, when I'm taking care of my more expensive possessions), so anyway I realized that I have assembled the gun without the recoil spring. So I go to pull the slide back off oh, and guess what? It won't come back off without the recoil spring. So after a bit of mild panic, I find a video that shows me how to do that. Then I go to putting this thing back together and was putting in The Recoil spring, and thought, Oh my God, this thing won't go back together because of these pens that are sticking out from near the back of the pistol. More panic. So then I find another video that shows me how to disassemble the entire slide assembly, which I do. I was trying to put the spring in the wrong side of the slide assembly the whole time. Even my severe ADD doesn't excuse this. Please refrain from expressing your jeers. No one is more affected this bout with reason than myself. I wish I could blame it on being drunk, but I don't drink before or during anything firearm related. Cheers anyway.
Huh...another striker safety plunger that blocks striker at same point the sear engages striker....similar to HK VP9. My issue with this is...what happens when striker breaks at the point where sear engages it? Striker block would do nothing to prevent an accidental discharge in this case correct?? Why not just design it where the block safety would engage a different surface than the sear so 2 different parts would have to fail simultaneously to cause a discharge. To think I almost bought one of these.....
I just picked up a P10c. I've been watching the hell out of your videos, they're extremely informative. It seems CZ has done away with this type of magazine release and re-designed it to the same reversible release that's on the P07 and the P09. Much easier to deal with.
Great Vid!!! I'm looking to purchase a Killer Innovations slide for my P10-C. Their slides come stripped and this helped me confirm that CZ does not have a channel liner like the glock does. For glock you have to replace the channel liner when purchasing a Killer Innovations slide. Glad my CZ won't have that problem when purchasing one of their slides.
Great video. So the goal is to polish the v groove in between the mag release buttons and top edge of the groove too? Then also the lower gloss/polished portion of the mag catch/release silver thing? I just want to make sure I will do this right. I already put this gun through A LOT. Can I accomplish good results with 400-600 grit paper you think? Thanks.
i polish all the internals of my guns to a mirror shine. its amazing what it does. makes them feel like a whole new gun. everyone always asks what parts im running. they are amazed when i say completely stock internals and it runs better than their "x brand" trigger pack.
Outside of the factory, we’ve also employed the services of an NIJ-certified independent third party to perform testing to the P-10 platform in accordance with NIJ-STD-0112.03, Autoloading Pistols. During this outside testing, P-10s of various configurations/models were subjected to extremes of temperature and environment like sand, salt water immersion and more. Another aspect was extensive rough handling and drop tests. In those tests the P-10 performed as we knew it would - experiencing no failures. The main safety systems, as you’ve mentioned in your write-up, are the trigger safety and the drop safety. Both of these mechanical safeties work to prevent the P-10 from firing without the trigger being pulled. The safety in question is a third safety, known as the ‘automatic safety.’ For the automatic safety to ever need to be employed, either the firing pin, the sear surface of the trigger bar, the trigger bar spring pin or the frame itself would have to fail. In the incredibly rare instance of one of these items failing, the role of the automatic safety is to reduce the chance of the firing pin igniting a chambered round, adding a third layer to the robust safety system within the P-10. There are many factors present in the 'testing' in question that are not able to be present in the P-10 during use in its assembled form. First and foremost, the firing pin travel exhibited in videos of these ‘tests’ is far greater than the maximum firing pin travel reached during the normal cocking/firing sequence (to the tune of 1.5x, resulting in a corresponding increase in inertia within the firing pin). Realistically and in the worst case scenario, were a failure to happen the firing pin would be falling from its pre-cocked position with far less force, allowing the automatic safety to retard its forward travel. When in the pre-cocked position, the firing pin still has 3.5mm to travel before achieving its full travel and being released by the trigger bar. A major factor in all of this is that the designers of the P-10 intended this tertiary safety to function once and as a last resort were a parts failure to have occurred, envisioning it much like an airbag in a car. During normal use of the firearm, the automatic safety never impacts the corresponding shoulder on the firing pin. As such, when called upon those two engagement surfaces are able to make positive contact, hampering the firing pin's forward progress. Subjecting the system to non-standard testing such as this will in no question create undue wear to those engagement surfaces, and the more times the test is repeated, the less chance the automatic safety will be able to perform its function in the rare instance it were needed. Fully withdrawing the firing pin to that overdrawn position will exacerbate this greatly. Like in other instances where faulty information on the internet has led folks to perform ill-advised 'testing' that ends up damaging guns
Is yours a US made or Czech P-10? My 1st generation Czech 2017 P-10C had a very nice trigger, probably 5 pounds. My updated 2020 Czech made P-10F has a great trigger, even lighter than the C and slightly better break. My US made P-10S Optic Ready had a pretty bad trigger... Heavy and a little vague plastic feeling, but zero creep, a clean break and great reset. I ended up getting a trigger pull gauge because I knew the P-10S was way heavier than the factory 4.5/5lb claim. Turns out it was closer to 6.5lb and sometimes more than 7 😬 Even after dry firing it well over a thousand times, it didn't improve much. I was about to contact CZ and send it in to have them look at it, but after I took it to the range and put 100 rounds through it, it felt better. I thought I was crazy, but then I got the gauge out... The trigger pull dropped to <5.5 pounds! I plan to do a quick polish and shoot the heck out of it before I do anything else, I'm guessing the US made ones don't have as tight of QC, maybe some small burrs or rough machining?
thank you for your detailed video. Even after 4 years, it is a good source of information! I was wondering if you noticed how thick the polymer is at the end of the beaver tail? ive been having some issues of a bruised knuckle that hits the left corner and I was wondering if i could slowly sand that down thereabouts in the rear pins until it is comfortable (i did my glock trigger guard) as this looks like a major area which may affect the structural integrity of the pistol? Thank you
Very good stuff, thank you! One small suggestion. Next time maybe consider securing the Dremel and a vise or clamp, then hold the pieces and manipulate them. I think you'll find that you have a lot more control. Good luck.
I've got about 3000 eds through mine and I love it.i cleaned one oiled mine up before I ever shot it.went to my range and was hitting man size steel targets at 100 yes with no problems as fast as I could pull the trigger.never had to adjust the sights
I AM WORRIED ABOUT THE CZ P10C OVER THIS WEAK STRIKER SAFETY BLOCK, CAN YOU PLEASE DO A VIDEO REVIEW AND ANALYSIS OF THIS SERIES OF VIDEOS ON HIS CHANNEL ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rKIUpTDbn6o.html www.reddit.com/r/CCW/comments/cqshim/psa_the_cz_p10c_appears_to_have_no_functional/
