I started sharpening knives while deployed to Djibouti in 2015. Concurrently, I began designing a lifestyle in earnest because I woke up to the reality that the life I was living was not the best for me.
When I returned home in 2016 I turned the knife sharpening skill into a business and used a portion of the revenue to invest in a Permaculture inspired project on my homestead.
If I could only make enough money to grow enough food to save enough money so I don't have to make so much money!
Both the sharpening and my life have come a long way in the last few years and it's picking up speed to take me to even greater things.
Please subscribe, hit the bell, and come along for the journey!
My sharpening business: www.americanedgesharpening.com/
Where I help other people (like you) start your own business so you can live the life of your dreams: members.guildofsharpeners.org/
Dropping the fuel tank on these. Ask the hardest bite possible. It takes me about eight minutes to undo the bed and lift it twenty minutes to get to the fuel pump
If you want more of a v-edge with flexible belts you can use the little red lever in between the BGA and the motor. You can move the tension-er towards yourself and increase the tension of the belt. I have not seen any people talk about this anywhere. It also gives you a better tip because the belt flexes less.
If you want more of a v-edge with flexible belts you can use the little red lever in between the BGA and the motor. You can move the tension-er towards yourself and increase the tension of the belt. I have not seen any people talk about this anywhere.
Hey Mathew, For Japanese knives, carbon, G2 knives... to get them razor sharp, would you start with a coarse stone, then move to a medium coarse stone, and finally finish with a fine stone to finalize the edge? Is a silicone carbide wetstone better for that? My knives are Miyabi, Dalstrong, and Seido. I have the KO3 pro hunter
I grew up sharpening 4 and 6 foot bars that cut shake wood. And a damaged chain verses a undamaged one changes the set needed to make a strait cut. That and wood density changes the set needed. Pluss like in cuting burials it takes a flat 45 chisel cut to handle the long shaved chips. And im not sure but think that aplies to cutting boards too. With a chisel bit chain and file being needed. Would add that sharpening back against the tooth removes any burs that will dull the chain on the first cut. Kind of like sharpening a knife so it has no buring on the edge. The peaces that break off dull all the teeth instantly. But thats mostly when running an exstream angle for really hard wood like oak.
Dalstrongs pizza cutter is better. They probably make one of the best ones, and you can disassemble and tune it up to lock up tight and turn super smooth. It also powers through pizza and had some good heft to it. I have 2 now and have immensely enjoyed both! Next to that, Mercer Culinary's pizza cutter is a go toand works well, has a replacable blade, a nut that adjusted to reduce wobble and still toll well. From what I have found, the Dalstrong still performa better and us lightyears better than your average pizzacutter, and even some of the more expensive ones because it was made with ease of maitenence in mind as well as cutting performance and edge durability. Hope this helps! Sincerely, JS
Thanks so much for this, just for confirmation, do you mean this one: amzn.to/3XJEWSt ? It's pricey but it sounds like the price reflects quality, which I'm a super fan of. The Mercer looks more budget friendly but I love the ability to adjust and even replace the blade: amzn.to/3MOv6bK This is great feedback, I really appreciate it. Most pizza cutters suck so it would be great to help people get into higher quality items.
Morning, Matt - I know your busy these days - just stopping by to tell you how much I appreciate your tutorials here. I no longer have my shop or really any shop space, but I've been thinking of looking further into The Guild. Being able to network with other novice just-starting-out tool & knife sharpeners would be invaluable. In the meantime, I'm just getting back to spending time with my TSPROF and re-learning the skills after a couple of years absence. I've set up "Shop" on my old desk as a work bench in my little hallway. I'll make it work for now. Thanks Matt, and take care...
galvanic corrosion, you cant have aluminum mounted to metal without some type of insulation in between, I cant believe engineers would even do that except knowing it will fail eventually so you have to purchase another one.
It wasn't my main focus and it wasn't covering the expense to host it so I stopped offering it. All the content that was in that course is available inside the Guild of Professional Sharpeners.
Morning, Matt - I have earnestly considered enrolling in one of your course - however, I've got a boat-load of problems that I'm struggling through just now. It's been a very tough year. I have a bunch of challenges as well, that is - some handicaps and perhaps even my age? I'm trying to decide if I might be a good fit. I am aiming towards generating some extra income at this point with my TSPROF "Master Kit" and some miscellaneous accessories. I'm still learning, mostly by yours and others tutorials here on RU-vid. Too - I've been fascinated with everything having to do w/ sharpening tools, knives, scissors & so on since I was a youngster. It's very therapeutic, as we all know! Sure appreciate the work you put into producing these, thanks - take care...
Morning, Matt - I've been hoping you'd get around to the TSPROF. I heavily invested in their KO-3 "Master Kit," and several other accessories. I've only done a handful of knife blades, and three pairs of scissors. It's an incredibly well engineered & manufactured tool/system. I'm hoping to become proficient enough to start doing blades for some income. Really appreciate your taking the time & efforts to produce these tutorials. Thanks, and take care...
P.S. Matt...you make mention that if you were to do that blade on your Edge Pro, you'd "Be there all night." I get it - the blade needs re-profiling. Since I only have my TSPROF and no 1" x 30" what about using it (TSPROF.) with the ever-popular "Atoma 140" abrasive stone? It is said that it's excellent for re-profiling, and every time I try to order one up they are out-of-stock. Anyhow... I might at some point be able to swing a 1" x 30" from Harbor Freight, but I no longer have my shop - I'm just set up in my entry hall with my desk as my work bench, etc. ( I also repair/restore/conserve antique Connecticut clocks and American Civil War sabres, etc. ) My intentions are to only somehow generate some modest income from sharpening knives and scissors. Your thoughts, please?
Morning, Cap'n Matt - I managed to establish the "Mirror Edge" polish on my EDC Delica. Since, it's become dull as a butter knife from breaking down cardboard boxes for recycling, and I felt I'd need to put her back on my KO-3/TSPROF...but, saw my leather strop hanging nearby and decided to see what it could do for the VG-10 steel. It brought that mirror edge back in no time, and I was amazed. I'm still just learning my TSPROF, and I'd used the usual progression of the diamond abrasive stones. Then, I finished the process with the 3 micron diamond lapping film from Jende. Viola! It's a really good feeling just seeing that pretty edge whenever I use my knife. I've gotten quite alot from watching your tutorials. Your an excellent instructor, and I have actually considered joining up for some of your courses, but - have been going through some very rough waters for some time now. Perhaps in future? Thank you, Matt - take good care & God bless...
i was having those problems, shop replaced my module, now the same problem... no start with crank. when let sitting in the heat, it will start for a second, i think on fuel vapour.
Hey Matt. Just discovered your channel, and love the different stuff you sharper. I am learning to be able to sharpen my own stuff, not really as a biz. However, even now I end up sharpening stuff for friends & fam. I have a cleaver similar to this one. Got it from my father, who was a meat cutter all his life. Mine is very similar, but only 8". Shape is same, but tip of mine does not curve up as much as yours. Mine's in better condition, probably because it was rarely used after about early 1970's I think. I am guessing both of them are probably from the 1940's +/-. Back in the 1960s and earlier, meat markets used to get their beef delivered as fore & hind quarters. They hung in the walk-in cooler. Meat cutters would bring one out over his shoulder and break it down by hand on the bench. The cleavers would be used to break apart the joints I think. If I remember accurately, in the mid-late 1970's that part of the processing would get done at plants, as it is now. I have a very cool sharpening rig my father got and gave to me in the early 1980s when his meat dept at a large grocery chain was being remodeled. They were throwing it out. It's an oil stone setup where the stones mount in a triangle arrangement with an axle in the middle. This sits in a metal box filled with oil. You can loosen the knobs on each end of the axle and rotate the axle, thereby rotating stones through the oil bath, and with the one you want (course, medium, fine) on top to use next. Made by Sorensen, stones are 11.5"x2.5"x.5". Thanks for the great videos!
Nice video - I bought (7) wedges on Ebay for $23 and just wired brushed and sharpened them Next I will paint. I found an axe on the edge of a log with hammer works great to split large logs. Take care and be safe!
I am so glad that you did all of this. I learn from others mistakes and victories. I have been pulling my hair out with trying to figure out this problem. I even went as far as getting a remanufactured pcm brain and having it programmed to my truck. It ran perfect for 2 months after that, just lucky. It’s the same problem all over again and then i seen your video. Thank you so much. Same actual problem
I had similar symptoms with my 99 f-150 and it turned out to be the relay that drives the fuel pump. In my case that relay was under the hood in the engine compartment fuse box. I started getting a lot of strange issues back in 2015 and when the truck would refuse to start after a lot of cranking and then would start no problem a few hours later I started to suspect it wasn't the pump. I also put a gauge on the fuel line and could see the pressure was zero and was not hearing the whirring noise from the tank when the key was turned to the on position but not started. but back to all the strange issues. it turns out that all the electro-mechanical things (like relays) were degrading. If the truck was in a mood and wouldn't start, I could thump that relay and like magic the truck would start on the first crank. I replaced it and haven't had an issue since. Being curious, I carefully opened the bad relay and saw how the contacts were glazed over with black deposits. After seeing that, I decided to just replace all the relays in that box. All the mystery issues have gone away now. On another note, a lot of rubber and a few other electro-mechanical things failed on me also. there is a exhaust gas valve or solenoid near the break master cylinder that had a similar issue and was throwing engine codes indicating emissions control which made my truck fail state inspections. Long story short, Ford didn't make this truck to last forever. delicate electronics and formerly robust rubber hoses start to degrade but the good news is a lot of these things are easy to get your hands on way before you try and pull the tank down which I also attempted at first but stopped short when a friend recommended looking at the fuel pressure first. that suggestion saved me so much headache and sent me down the correct and much less hassle path.
I love spherical washers😎 Lathes are awesome. Just used my PM lathe and Mill to make “slipakniven” style extensions for my Tormeks with 10” CBN and leather hones. The new Tormek KS123 makes things even easier! Greetings from SoCal 😎
For solvent/cleaner outdoors, diesel fuel works well. Insidoors? I learned from Hobby Hardwood Alabama (has RU-vid channel), try Cotton Picker Spindle Cleaner/Detergent. It's a water-soluable oil. He uses it on his sawmill blades. I want to try it on my chainsaw chains.
I bought my Super Jolly from Sharpening Supplies too. They are helpful and their prices are good too. By the way, the Tecomec variant they sell, is made in ITALY...good stuff!
You said you use a 1/8 wheel for everything. I thought the 1/8 wheel was for 3/8 LP and .325 chain, while the 3/16 wheel is for 3/8 (.375) chain. Table in manual says either size wheel for 3/8. Your theme here was about how to set it for "everything" without changing up (and killing time). Afterall, we bought these sharpeners to achieve repeatable uniform results, in a time efficient manner. Thanks for sharing!
