@@wperry1970 I don’t think they sell them anymore my man. The EPA cut down on a lot of these companies. If I were you I’d get a set of Longtube headers over the cat deletes.
Hey, a year old, but I'm hoping to install a TS 40k on my 2011 SS L99. Have you had any issues or leaks with this setup? Would you still recommend connecting straight to the trans from the cooler, and if so, how long would the line need to be? And would I still need the same adapters? Thanks!
I’ve had no leaks or issues with the setup. Connecting straight to the transmission is sort of like a lifestyle choice. Do you live in a hotter climate? Are you gonna be disciplined enough to let the transmission warm up before you get on it? Do you have a trans temperature gauge to monitor temps? As for running the line from the cooler to the transmission, I don’t have an exact length to give you if you do it the way I recommend, which is going all 6AN and removing the factory lines. You should be good to just buy 20ft of line and buy the fittings and create the lines yourself.
@@metrotrx3860 yeah if you’re gonna run the lines like I did then check the forum post. The other way, which is directly from the transmission, is the video that I linked. But yes those are all the fittings I used.
I'm like you. But I'm deeper into it money wise. I put Borla ATAK on my cammed 5th gen with longtubes and xpipe, and its unbearably loud. I've got a pair of Borla Touring on the way. Hopefully I can tolerate them. $1600 in mufflers and I'm still concearned it will be too loud to daily.
@@DylanLustick I installed the touring mufflers today. They are not quiet by any means but they are less obnoxious than the ATAKs. The lack of cats and a big cam is just loud in general.
Cool I respect your opinion and price breakdown. I have a 2018 I want to do cam and headers. I will probably do a new intake and throttle body. The lifters and rods as well as the other parts that go into the heads.Plugs and fluids and tune. I don’t think I can do that work myself I have some knowledge but I never took apart an engine. I did change the starter on my BMW X3 I had to remove the intake and a lot of other stuff and buy tools. I spent $190 the shop wanted $1800.I don’t think I should touch the engine on my Camaro SS.
Definitely man. Lots of good shops around so there’s no down side to handing the car off. Plus the LT1 cam install is a little more involved than the LS3 from what I’ve seen. Those 6th gens move with a good cam set up though. She’ll be fun when she’s done.
62k miles on an LS is nothing. If the car was properly maintained it’s barely even started it’s life 😂. I got mine at 50k and she drove like brand new.
change the trans fluid every 20k with a fluid exchanger(they have hand pump ones at harbor freight, amazon...stick the tube straight down the trans dipstick...giggity) and thank me later (get a tune also)
not gonna lie your prices is up there even with a auto 2000 dollars for a package? and thats with out the other stuff and if you where not doing it your self that wouldve been labor on top of the dyno and tuning .-. i went threw 3 cams ain never got that high in prices o_o
Thanks bro for the help i keep getting different anwers from other people but i see your honest, valley cover doesnt come included in the kit i believe is it needed and the trunnion kit??
@@normajorge9906 yeah so if you’re going l99 to ls3 the valley cover is necessary. And the trunnion isn’t “necessary” per say, but it’s highly recommended. The factory trunnion is just a bunch of tiny needle bearings and if one of them decides to go on you that’d be a bunch of tiny metal going straight into the engine. So, having the peace of mind, I think, is worth the $200.
@@DylanLustick the trunion is 100% necessary I almost lost my ls1 vette to it. Rocker blew up at high rpm, an outer dual spring exploded on me, and it also took out a chunk of piston, but not enough to burn through. Pushrods will 100% bend on stock engines and I've pulled them out of so many stock trucks it's insane. PRC have been tested to 1000hp and I replaced the Yella Terra's on my LS3 stick SS with them because the Yellas can be loud.
They’ll definitely fit, the lug pattern is the same between 5th and 6th gens. The only thing you’d have to double check is the offset of the wheels. If I were you I’d go on to fitment industries, plug in your cars info, and check their popular sizes then go from there.
The big issue is that automatics basically keep the motor in that drone range. Stick shift cars allow you to choose what rpm range you run. Aome say “you can manually shift automatics”….. it’s not the same.
The best way I can describe Speed Engineering headers is they’re a gamble. Some people have had great experience with them, and others have had terrible experiences. I’m one of the people who’s had a terrible experience especially after the install of my cam. So it’s up to you if you want to take on the gamble and hope you get a “good set” from them. But, if I were you, I’d just save a little longer and go TSP or make the next step up and go Stainless Power.
Hey man, really appreciate the video. Def will be sharing to a lot of my buddies. We are all thinking of getting ss’s this summer with tsp cams. Helps a lot with how much we are about to fart out the penny bucket lol!
Personally I would've gone with a Magnaflow setup to regally quiet down the cam. Then after add some cutouts to bring out that cam sound when I want it. I have a 2010 2ss ls3 with TSP headers and TSP stage 2 cam with flow master outlaws. My next goal is getting those magnaflow bullets to quiet down the cam. I live in cali. Unfortunately with camaros you have to really know how to set up the sound you want otherwise you'll end up spending $$$ trying to get the sound you want and swapping parts every few months. I envy Mustang owners for this. No matter what, its difficult to make a mustang gt sound bad. Maybe really raspy but at least they sound good. Camaros look better but mustangs sound amazing with just headers and sometimes a simple exhuast setup. I wish I added the cam when I first bought the car. Camaros need headers and a cam to really sound awesome.
Yeah eventually the heads are coming back off to be ported so when I do that I’ll throw some Johnson’s in. I’m not revving the cam out past like 6,700 so for now the LS7’s have held their own.
What happens with my '14 ss 1le is after driving and gets to just under operating temp it will start, however it is a very hard start which puts it into service stabilitrak mode. Will adding these 2 extra grounds solve my issue or will I end up having to add an extra heat guard like you did?
You really won’t know until you try it. My suggestion is, if it’s in your budget, to replace the starter with an oem one, add the grounds, and add the starter heat shield. Now, if you don’t feel like doing all that, then you can just do what I did and do one ground at a time and see what works best. But if you’ve got headers or an old starter, it’s probably on its way out anyways and you might as well replace.
@@DylanLustick Okay thank you. I’ll look into the new starter as well as the heat guards. I still have the stock header manifolds and it still hard starts. My battery is testing good so I know it’s not that.
Yeah man I wanted to go J Pipe but Solo Performance only makes a 2 1/2 inch system and I don’t really have an exhaust shop that I really trust around me that would be able to fab up a custom 3 inch exhaust for me. So for now the stocker will do.
I just did a full e85 tune with long tube headers & a cai pushing 401WHP on my 2010 maro and still got beat by a 10spd stang😭 looking to either cam it or sell it & get a c6 vette
I wouldn’t go as far as to say turds 🤣. 10 years ago 400whp was god level speed. But in the world of hellcats and 10 speeds it’s hard for these old pushrods to keep up.
But, if you can get a C6 then do it. It’s a better car in every aspect, especially if you’re worried about roll racing, weight and aero are everything.
@probation2propagation420 as soon as I get into the 10’s NA then I’ll throw some boost at this bad boy. But for now I still gotta do a bunch of suspension first. The boost will come though.
I can’t speak on driving it at 10/10 all out like you were at the track. But for 7-8/10 driving on the street I’ve never had it unpredictably break loose on me. But 275-315 is a lot of rubber so I think the overall size of the tire is helping just as much as the actual compound itself.
Hot damn those are gorgeous rims!! I have a white '15 ss rs and want to change factory rins to black. Im trying to pick out some. Thanks for the vid & info!
I appreciate that! When I got them I was definitely on the fence about the look, but I’ve had them for a couple years now and they’re easily one of my favorite mods that I’ve done to the car
Just found your channel tonight. Sounds great man! Do you have a link to those paddle shifters? I bought some a few years ago but they sent me some bullshit that doesn't even line up to my OEM shifters, they wouldn't even give me a refund, but their advice was to use hot glue! LMAO, I showed eBay all the bullshit on the messages and they got booted off eBay. Car looks great man! Just subscribed. Looking forward for more content. Thanks.
id honestly recommend you find the biggest magnaflow mufflers you can get, stock mufflers flow like crap and theres so many chambers the exhaust gas has too flow through it will definitely choke up your motor trying to run tens
I’m more than likely going to install cutouts before the mufflers to remedy that problem, or just pull the exhaust completely off when it’s party time. We’ll see.
Plenty of cars on the fast list running the stock catback. My car doesn’t make enough power to where I would have to consider the exhaust to be a restriction. As for the weight if I really wanted to I could just… take the exhaust off.
those mufflers won't add that much weight dude lol If anything they will give him better back pressure and increase torque. I remember I had to put my OEM mufflers back on my 2010 ss due to smog ( I live in commifornia) I have a TSP Stage 2. SO when I got the mufflers back on the car felt quicker from a dig and I could get up on it way faster. Also don't ask me how I passed smog with a cam... if you know you know ;)
You need an actual tune for the headers. Just clearing the code with a handheld tuner really doesn’t do anything. Once you get an dyno tune or a professional street tune you’ll have your remote start back.
You need a tune for those headers. Either a local dyno tune or I personally would recommend trifecta tuning which is an email tune. Its better than nothing tbh.
It’s crazy how much of a price difference we had for the same modification. I have a manual car vs your auto and did the work myself as well. Dalton hooked me up too lol. What’s your IG? I’ll give you a follow and shoot you a message
@iamdylanlustick. And yeah man the manual guys usually end up spending a good amount less than us automatic guys. I also factored in breaking things cause… well I kept breaking things 🤣
@@OregonHydrographics1 I agree. I personally don’t care cause I’m gonna drive my car regardless. But saying there is no one that cares isn’t true at all. For a lot of people buying a sports car is a big financial decision and MPG is a factor in that. Same goes into it when people start modifying cars.
